Online Mouser parts reference... want to contribute?

[joelap]

I'm not sure if this has been done before, so forgive me if it has.

Anyone get lost sometimes while trying to order parts through mouser?  I'll admit I sometimes do... and since their website isn't exactly "novice friendly" either, I was wondering if it would be a good idea to host a list of various components (guitars, effects, and amp related) with their mouser part number and maybe a brief description if necessary?  I'll host the list on my website, which I am currently working on.  Basically, group everything into categories/subcategories and add to it.  For example:

Resistors:
1% Metal Film, 1/4 watt (Xicon): 271-xxxxx
5% Carbon Film, etc. etc.
5% Carbon Comp, etc. etc.

Capacitors:
Polyester Film:
    insert
Tantalum:
    insert
Aluminum Electrolytic:
    insert

Potentiometers:
   etc. etc. etc.

Has this been done before?  Think it would be a good idea maybe?

[John Lyons]

Sounds like a good idea. I think there may be some of the numbers in the Wiki above...

Breakable inlune Sockets for Transistors and caps etc.   Mouser# 105-SR2611F-43-38RN
Enclosed Switchcraft jack 502-111
Switchcraft open frame mono 502-11
8 pin DIP sockets 575-199308
silver mica caps 5982-15-500V   value
16 volt Xicon radial electro cap 140-XRL16V   value
multiturn Trim pot 72-T93YB-value

Those are the ones I have righ in front of me now...

John

[Stephen]

If you order once you will receive a catalog...Nice to look at and than with the search on the website,if you cant find it!!  That is what I do....As far as #'s everyone has what they like BUT that is a GOOD idea...

[R.G.]

This is kind of like the difference in giving a man a fish and teaching him how to fish.

Mouser changes their part numbers for the same functional item, as their vendors change and as new, cheaper, or better parts take the place of older ones. I occasionally get flak about the Mouser part numbers I put in my parts lists for effects from as long as eight years ago not being current.

Instead of making up a list that is certain to go out of date, why not compile a list of what to look for and teach beginners how to read a catalog?

But that's just me.

[joelap]

^ Because I also fit into that category of not knowing what to look for, for the most part.  Sure its giving the man a fish, but the other way it'd be the blind leading the blind.

[zpyder]

I agree with R.G., anybody could select the box next to the right number and click Buy Now.  To actually learn, it helps to do things the hard way...
We are all this for different reasons however...

Which naturally  leads me to my first hey-I'm-a-newbie-how-do-I-buy-the-right-part question:

looking at Mouser's 2N5088s on their webiste (just did a search) I see that I could pay either .06 or .26 per 2n5088... Now clearly I'd rather pay 6 cents than 26, but am I going to get what I pay for?  What would motivate me to buy the more expensive one when the cheaper one is 1/4 the price?

thanks!
zpyder

[R.G.]

looking at Mouser's 2N5088s on their webiste (just did a search) I see that I could pay either .06 or .26 per 2n5088... Now clearly I'd rather pay 6 cents than 26, but am I going to get what I pay for?  What would motivate me to buy the more expensive one when the cheaper one is 1/4 the price?

I have always wondered what could motivate me to buy a more expensive part when a cheaper was provided to the same specification. I'd buy the 6 cent one, unless I had previously bought from that maker before and got a bum lot of parts. In that case, I'd move up to the 0.07 one.

Here are the caveats. Lesser known vendors compete on price, better known vendors compete on reputation. Are their products different? LOOK IN THE DATASHEET.  The datasheet tells you the details of what the manufacturer guarantees to provide you, as well as describing the product mechanically - little things like pinout which you'll always want later.

Can you tell ahead of time whether a 0.06 2N5088 is better or worse performing than a 0.26 one with similar specs? No way to tell without trying them. On jellybean parts like transistors, I'd buy the cheap ones. Resistors, caps? Buy the cheap one until you get a low quality one and then mark that vendor off your list of people to deal with.

What really matters when buying from Mouser that hurts a beginner is getting an SMD part instead of a through-hole part. So READ THE CATALOG. They tell you by notations and pictures of the packages which ones are SMD and which ones are not. Physical dimensions matter a lot to a beginner. Read the catalog. Look for and learn how they designate SMD parts. Learn how to figure out the length and width of the body of a capacitor, and how big the lead spacing is. It's in there. I use Mouser's catalog all the time, not necessarily to buy parts but to look up what possible sizes I can get a 0.01uF poly capacitor in. If Mouser sells it, there is at least one and probably more company that make ones that will fit mechanically.

Because I also fit into that category of not knowing what to look for, for the most part.  Sure its giving the man a fish, but the other way it'd be the blind leading the blind.

You're not blind - you're uninformed. Un-knowing only lasts as long as you let it. Blind is forever.
1. Look for through-hole ("thru-hole") parts, learn what designates SMD packages so you can avoid them.
2. Look at the physical size drawings in the catalog and learn to use them. Can you stuff 1/4W resistors into holes on 0.3" spacings? Yes, but it's really, really tight. 0.3" is for 1/8W resistors. 0.4" is for 1/4W and 0.5" is for 1/2W. How big for 5W? Look at the length of the body of the 5W resistors and the distance betwen the holes you have to stick the leads in, and get a shorter resistor than you have hole distance.  Same for caps. Got a space 0.5" long between leads for a film cap? Those big box caps with 0.8" spacing are NOT going to fit, and they tell you that. If you get too small a part, that's fine, just bend the leads out to fit the bigger hole spacing.
3. ICs are always in standard outlines. The datasheet for the part tells you what outline to look for.
4. There is NO difference to the hobbyist in who makes what part for logic ICs, opamps, transistors, and so on.
5. Learn to read the differences in suffixes. You may find a TL072ACN and a TL072JM. Are they the same? No way to tell. Read the datasheet. Look at the package drawings. Suffixes are often used in ICs to tell packages apart, and in transistors for pre-selected gain ranges. A 2SC828R is a higher gain than a 2S828W. It says so on the datasheet.
5. NTE replacement parts are going to be the most expensive thing you can buy for the application.

One secret to a succesful EE career was to quietly accumulate a library of databooks and datasheets for all the parts you needed in new designs. That's all trivially easy in an era of Google.

If you have a problem with doing this kind of thing in your head, use a pencil and paper and draw it out. It's the mechanics that will get you.

[newbie builder]

Yeah my first order from mouser resulted in many SMD components and pots that have detents when I didn't want that....c'est la vie.

[jrem]

This is kind of like the difference in giving a man a fish and teaching him how to fish.

bingo. 

haven't even read the rest of the thead, but one needs to get their feet wet and make mistakes.  And Mouser is (was) really cool, they offered to credit my account for a couple of stinkin' resistors that I bought (in the 90's) that I messed up on.

Now when I mess up I just throw the $2 of parts in my junk box.  I have a very nice junk box.

Maybe just ask someone to look over your order before you launch.

Best, John.

[markm]

I have to say this is a good idea but, this list would become obsolete fairly quickly. There's a time and a place for everything including Mouser but, you guys would have to admit that Small Bear's little corner of the Net is very user friendly!

[newbie builder]

I have to say this is a good idea but, this list would become obsolete fairly quickly. There's a time and a place for everything including Mouser but, you guys would have to admit that Small Bear's little corner of the Net is very user friendly!

Which is why i use smallbear for everything but bulk orders! Much easier and even though some individual parts prices are higher mouser charges more for shipping so I think it kinda evens out- even if it is a little more it's worth it to support a good small business.

[chokeyou]

sure mouser charges more for shipping but its sent out next/same business day... mr steve daniels often has a wait list of a few days and shipping on top of that...its normally what a dollar difference? you probably save that in the process of buying cheaper parts at mouser. I love small bear and steve but I'd love to see some catalog numbers for some of the stuff he offers and seems to be hard to find in mouser. jacks, led holders, dc adapters, etc. I'm also curious as to the maker/quality of those small "box" style poly film caps that soggybag shows in his builds. Also, as much as I hate to see it, lets see a list of (dare I say) mojo...who makes the best caps?...where do you get those odd caps (orange drop, etc)? who makes those blue metal film resistors that I see in the build reports all the time...I order metal film and they're metal film...but they're brown. I think this is a cool idea and I know it will get outdated to some effect...but if this is stickied...people are going to be sifting by it on a regular basis, I know it'd be a ton easier to make a few modifications to it here than individual html pages, .jpgs, .gifs, .pdfs, etc

I'm still a noob by most standards, but after a fair number of builds/mods I know what to look for in the mouser catalog (I've done the SMD thing too)...you just get lost sometimes. I do, however, love the search regulators that they're implimenting as of late.

and yeah, I get the mouser phonebooks on a regular basis, but often its just faster to try and search around on their website...some of these catalogs I dont even crack open and they're already out of date!

[phaeton]

Just curious, R.G.,   is Mouser where you get most of your stuff from?

[gulliver]

Here are some entire mods, but you can glean the [mouser.com part numbers] as needed:

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Keeley Seeing Eye Mod
with red 3mm Diffused LED status indicator kept as stock

[mouser.com part #]

C1 - 0.1 UFMetal Film [5989-250V.1-F]
C2 - 1 UF Metal Film [5989-100V1.0-F]
C5 - 0.1 UF Metal Film [5989-250V.1-F]
C8 - 1 UF Metal Film [5989-100V1.0-F]
C9 - 1 UF Metal Film [5989-100V1.0-F]
C11 - 0.033 UF Metal Film [5989-250V.033-F]
C12 - 0.1 UF Metal Film [5989-250V.1-F]
C14 - 1 UF Metal Film [5989-100V1.0-F]
D5 - Any 3mm LED – will light up when playing
(put in 7/64 hole in "O" in the word "TONE") [859-LTL-4221]
R14 - 1.5K, 1% Metal Film [271-1.5K-RC]
R39 - 20K, 1% Metal Film [271-20K-RC]

Ultra mod:
D4 - Add any 3mm LED in series with stock diode
*use switch for on-the-fly changing
Small switch [1055-TA1330]

*On a new LED the "longer" pin is positive, shorter pin negative.
*On a diode, the striped end is negative.

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SD-1 Bleed Through issue fix:
(Search forum for diagram)
Cap= 0.1 UF Metal Film [5989-250V.1-F]
Diode = 1N4148 [512-1N4148]
J201 JFET = [512-J201]

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Indyguitarist SD1 to Fulldrive 2 mod

Location --------Mod value  [mouser.com part #]
C2 ---------------.022 uf [5989-250V.022-F]
C3--------------- .1 uf Metal Film [5989-250V.1-F]
R6---------------- 2.2K resistor [271-2.2K-RC]
C6 ----------------.022 uf [5989-250V.022-F]
C10 --------------1 uf Metal Film [5989-250V1.0-F]
D4 ------------Germ. And 1n4001 series
D5 ------------1n4001
D6 ------------Germ. And 1n4001 series

Germ 1n34a – [526-1N34A]
1n4001 – [621-1N4001]
Note: Germ implies 1n34a germanium diode.

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Most popular interchangeable chips TS-9 and more:

IC Socket for easy swapping – [575-113308]
JRC4558D – [513-NJM4558D]
LM833N – [511-LM833N]
RC4558P – [595-RC4558P]
NE5532 – [595-NE5532P]
RC4559 – [595-RC4559P]
TL072ACN – [511-TL072ACN]
OPA2604 – [595-OPA2604AP]

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Keeley BD-2 Standard + Phat mod
(Note, this mod is really a clean boost with almost no distortion)
C1, C15, C6, C13, C7  10UF TANTALUM (I have these)
C14, C34  .1UF METAL FILM [5989-250V.1-F]
C36, C35  .047 METAL FILM [5989-250V.047-F]
C20, C25  100PF SILVER MICA  [5982-15-500V100]
C21, C23  47PF SILVER MICA [5982-5-300V47]
C22  220PF SILVER MICA  [5982-15-500V220]
C100 (A/B SWITCHABLE - ON TONE POT CIRCUITBOARD)
.033UF, .068UF [5989-250V.033-F] [5989-250V.068-F]
Small switch [1055-TA1330]
D9 – install jumper

[pbrommer]

Just FYI everyone (I just ordered from mouser and goof up):

This part number: JRC4558D – [513-NJM4558D] is obsolete according to mouser. I ended up ordering 513-NJM4558M which was a JRC4558 in surface mount. Just a short headsup for you guys.

*edit* I think they just make the 4558 in a SIP (single in-line package), no DIP package for mouser. Check the datasheet to double check (I may be wrong).

Patrick

[formerMember1]

I always use the paper catalog from mouser.  I usually never use the website. 
The CD of the catalog is good too.  I like both,...

just my 2 cents

[gulliver]

This part number: JRC4558D – [513-NJM4558D] is obsolete according to mouser.

Well, this was a replacement to the original, but from a different manufacturer ... we better find availability and stock up, so we'll have NOSRP - new-old-stock-replacement-part

Okay, I just made that up

[stumper1]

This is kind of like the difference in giving a man a fish and teaching him how to fish.

Give a man a fish and he eats for a day.  Teach a man to fish and he drinks beer in a boat for the rest of his life.

Like that

[Antero]

This is kind of like the difference in giving a man a fish and teaching him how to fish.

Give a man a fish and he eats for a day.  Teach a man to fish and he drinks beer in a boat for the rest of his life.

Like that

Give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man to fish and he starves to death while you're jabbering at 'im

[R.G.]

Just curious, R.G.,   is Mouser where you get most of your stuff from?

Yes. I don't even stock caps any more. Mouser always has anything I want delivered by UPS ground the next day after I order. Of course, they are only 200 miles north, hardly a significant distance in Texas.

This part number: JRC4558D – [513-NJM4558D] is obsolete according to mouser. I ended up ordering 513-NJM4558M which was a JRC4558 in surface mount. Just a short headsup for you guys.

For those of you who think RoHS is a good idea, the JRC4558D has been obsoleted because it's in a lead bearing package. I think they may be releasing same die in an all-tin package, but that's not certain.

Give a man a fish and he eats for a day.  Teach a man to fish and he drinks beer in a boat for the rest of his life.

One man's fish is another man's poisson.

Give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man to fish and he starves to death while you're jabbering at 'im

Give a man a fish and he eats for a day; teach him to fish and he spends the rest of his life sneaking off on weekends and smelling up the kitchen when he is home.