Simple Decals using only paper

Started by disto, August 14, 2006, 05:35:51 PM

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disto

i was just looking at putting graphics onto my next box (a crash sync), originally i was going to draw the design on using a fine marker but was suggest this method.

all it uses is a laser printed image (or photocopy) and whitespirit.

im pleased with the result too. (transfered onto sheet plastic)


basically place the printout face down onto the plastic and then soak with a rag and whitespirit, then rub it in. i used the handle end of and all metal knife to go over the image with some force to make it transfer better, also using the highest contrast, and the paper source set on transparency to get more ink onto the paper.

works well on plastics of metal but im sure whitespirit would effect many paints

343 Salty Beans

according to wikipedia, there's 3 different types of white spirit:

hydrodesulfurized (type 1, aka low flash grade),
solvent extracted (type 2, aka regular grade),
or hydrogenated (type 3, aka high flash grade).

You know which type you used and where you got it? I'd love to do this, I've been looking for a way to get graphics on my enclosures that didn't use etchant or press n peel blue, or generally anything complicated. This looks pretty simple.

mjones99


QSQCaito

thats great, it's common solvent that can be used, for paint??

Can it be used to transfer a pcb :P??

bye bye

dac
D.A.C

John Lyons

White spirit is paint thinner, mineral spirits no?
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

The Tone God

The term "paint thinner" is generic and not very specific in fact it is border line slang. It is generally used to refer to the solvent(s) that is in a particular paint. If a paint needs to be "thinned" more of the solvent is added. What is "paint thinner" depends on the paint you are using so it could be acetone, toluene, methyl hydrate, etc. thus using the term "paint thinner" is not very helpful.

What would be helpful is if the specific chemical name(s), which should be printed some where on the container, was given.

I do remember somewhere a guide that showed how to use standard paper for PCBs. I can't find the link right now but I remember that some alcohol was used during the ironing phase then the paper was removed using some chemical like a house hold cleaner (caustic soda ?)

Andrew

Fp-www.Tonepad.com

I've used this technique on fabric, it works very nice, gives that 'old t-shirt' look too.

Next time I have to try on a box.

Very cool!

Fp
www.tonepad.com : Effect PCB Layout artwork classics and originals : www.tonepad.com

markm

This is a very interesting concept.
I wonder about durability?
I suppose it could be clear-coated huh?

The Tone God

Quote from: markm on August 14, 2006, 11:38:59 PM
This is a very interesting concept.
I wonder about durability?
I suppose it could be clear-coated huh?

You have to be careful of what clear coat you as the solvent in the clear coat may damage the toner hence my earlier post about using the chemical name to be specific. What ever they used it seems to be less harmful then other solvents which may be advantageous for others to know and other uses.

Andrew

modsquad

Okay my 2 cents...Paint Thinner in the US is most known to contain turpentine, mineral spirits is labeled mineral spirits, Acetone as acetone, etc.  As far as solvents go, I used to be a big time model and war miniatures painter.  You don't use solvents over acrylics because it eats them up.  Basically the "hotter" the solvent the more likely it is to eat up what its going over.

I would start with a solvent like tupentine or "paint thinner" then acetone.  Acetone works well but will evaporate very quickly so it tends not to eat things up as fast.  Definitely stay away from stuff like Methyl Ethyl Ketone on anything with "methyl" in the name.  It'll eat through everything.
"Chuck Norris sleeps with a night light, not because he is afraid of the dark but because the dark is afraid of him"

brett

Hi
QuoteI do remember somewhere a guide that showed how to use standard paper for PCBs. I can't find the link right now but I remember that some alcohol was used during the ironing phase then the paper was removed using some chemical like a house hold cleaner (caustic soda ?)
Some time ago I mentioned good results using water dispersant (RP-7, WD40 and others).  Just spray a film of it onto blank PCB, then iron the image on just like PnP: about 2 minutes at 140C (280F).  Use the "wool" setting or just into steam settings (steam off, of course).  Remove the paper by soaking in water for a few minutes, then rub or toothbrush off (the image sticks very well).  Note that the toner MUST be from a photocopier or laser printer.  Inkjet toner won't work at all.  Very fine results can be achieved - lines and gaps of 1/100th inch are resolvable.

For etchers and others: When transfering PnP onto large boxes and objects that can radiate heat into the air, more heat is needed.  I use 170C (340F) for transfering onto box tops prior to etching. 140C barely worked under these conditions.
cheers
Brett Robinson
Let a hundred flowers bloom, let a hundred schools of thought contend. (Mao Zedong)

John Lyons

Brett
If you have used it and it works then I don't doubt you...Just seems so counter intuitive. WD40 is a slilicon based product I beleive. Seems like it would prevent the toner from sticking to the copper. Although maybe this is reversed by adding heat...

John
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

gez

Quote from: QSQCaito on August 14, 2006, 09:23:15 PM
Can it be used to transfer a pcb :P??


Yes it can, I've posted about this method a number of times.  Acetone can be used instead of white spirit.  The type of paper you use is important: best to use 'coated' paper (the glossy stuff) otherwise you end up with 'woodchip' stuck to the surface.

Using a photocopy/laser print, place the paper on your pcb image side down then rub the back with cottonwool soaked in acetone (nail-polish remover works, even the acetone free stuff) until the paper is saturated.  Leave to dry (10 mins max) then soak in warm water until the paper lifts off.
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter

disto

i also wondered about using this for pcbs not sure how well it would work as the pnp actually takes some of the blue substance with it when you apply heat so i dont know how well it would work! did some one say they tried it? im sorry but i dont know the type of whitespirit but yes i think its just a paint thiner/cleaner. this is the first attempt and so i haven't tried it on anything but clear plastic.

markm i think it would easily scratch and rub off with use, but as long as clear coat or sealer doesn't effect the toner then it should be fine (tests are needed)

brett

Hi
QuoteIf you have used it and it works then I don't doubt you...Just seems so counter intuitive. WD40 is a slilicon based product I beleive.
WD40 is a light oil.  If it contains silicon, it's not much.  It is somewhat similar to what we in Oz call turpentine or "turps" (originally extracted from tupentine plants, but these days it is a very light mineral oil used to thin enamel paints).  Maybe someone could compare WD40, turps, shellite...  ??
cheers
Brett Robinson
Let a hundred flowers bloom, let a hundred schools of thought contend. (Mao Zedong)

MarcoMike

Definitely stay away from stuff like Methyl Ethyl Ketone on anything with "methyl" in the name.  It'll eat through everything... :icon_confused:
mmhh... so what if we call acetone with his name "dimethylketone"?  ???

Anyway, for my experience acetone "eats" everything, from paint to plastic, this is why in chemistry we use it for washing..
I would just try with common solvents, start with the weakest (ethanol?) and go up untill the drawing is transfered.
I'm sure everyone has at least 3-4 bottles of solvents at home...

Let us know!

just remember: whitespirit (paint thinner in my country as well) is not really healty, so don't spend too much time playing with it! :icon_wink:
Only those who attempt the absurd will achieve the impossible.

GibsonGM

Just for the record and not to be contrary to other posts, turpentine is 'harsher' than mineral spirits (white spirits and paint thinner approx. the same, may differ in impurities), but both do about the same job.  Turpentine is "less pure" and leaves a residue.  I'm a painter and use both....for this application, I'd suggest trying low-odor mineral spirits as a starting point on the petrochemical road, lol.  Lacquer thinner might be next on the list.  After that you're moving into stove fuel and gas land (petrol for those of you in the UK).  Mineral spirits is easy to get, will probably work very well for this app. and its hazards are well-known.   

Do this stuff outside and don't breathe the fumes - no smoking!!!!  These chemicals are fire hazards, and contact with the skin can cause pretty good liver damage in a relatively short time....they will also remove your skin oils and leave you susceptible to absorbing anything else you may touch.  Blue nitrile gloves can minimize skin contact if you've got them.    Be careful, we don't want to hear about any great FX boxes exploding in the garage  ;)
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disto

oh by the way if anyone does try this method for some detail on pedals id love to see a picture of it!

oh and what the hell is mineral spirits?

Joe

I think acetone mixes ok with water, that might help the evaporation problem?


QSQCaito

Ok.. so what is ment by glossy paper?? photo paper, magazine(plastic) paper??

thanks

bey bye

dac
D.A.C