very first project.

[saemskin]

Hello everyone.
I hope this is the beginning of a long term and meaningful relationship.

I have been reading web pages and asking questins all morning long.  I have begun ordering parts for the AMZ Overdrive Pro on the Tonepad website.  http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=20  I am ordering my parts from smallbear, and have already ordered the pcb.

My questions are these:

1.  The resistors listed (50k lin pot, 2k lin pot, 1M lin pot, and 100k log pot) arent listed in the potentiometer section.  They all have strange names that dont match spec.  I'm sure I just dont understand, but can someone help me?  I was able to locate the 100k lin pot, it had the description to match the spec.

2.  There are so many different types of capacitors I am completely baffled here.  I am making a huge assumption that they are categorized by voltage, but I dont see voltages listed anywhere for the project.

I cant apologize for my ignorance, because I have to start somewhere and I dont know where else to ask.  Anything else you may want to tell me would be great, such as I dont see any input or output jacks or power source connections listed, nor how they are connected.

Thanks,

Josh

[petemoore]

  Hey Seamskin, welcome to the forum!
  1.  The resistors listed (50k lin pot, 2k lin pot, 1M lin pot, and 100k log pot) arent listed in the potentiometer section.  They all have strange names that dont match spec.  I'm sure I just dont understand, but can someone help me?  I was able to locate the 100k lin pot, it had the description to match the spec.  I understand pots pretty well, GEO has 'the secret life of pots' which is a good read.
  I believe SB supplies all the pot values you'll need for this build [and probably most all other]. I don't understand..for example, a 50k lin. pot is what you can find at Small Bear...
  ..Strange names??
2.  There are so many different types of capacitors I am completely baffled here.  I am making a huge assumption that they are categorized by voltage, but I dont see voltages listed anywhere for the project.
  On the schematic it probably shows the symbol for battery, next to that probably says 9v or 9vdc.
  The OD Pro is a 9v circuit as shown, using at least 16v rated capacitors [or more] insures no over-voltaging/capacitor blowouts.
  You always want the voltage rating of the capacitors to exceed the voltage applied.
   
 

[Mihkel]

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=555

Will do for the linear pots.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=113

For the 100k log

[captntasty]

For the pots you have 2 choices based on size 24mm & 16mm.  I typically use 16mm as they are smaller and work best in tight spaces.  Whichever you go with (they will both work equally well) just choose either linear or log depending on which you need and you will see a dropdown to specify value 10k, 100k, 1Meg, etc...

Resistors the same thing but there will be a range of values - go to that range and you'll find a dropdown where you specify the exact value.

For caps, low voltage poly will work - specifying value is like the resistors - select the range then the specific value in the dropdown.
For electrolytic caps you'll want radial 16v - selecting these is the same process as above.

There are sets with a few of each value cap that SB sells - you might consider this if you plan to build more.
Good luck, welcome and enjoy.

[saemskin]

holy smokes you guys are fast.  I did find the pots I was looking for, I missed the drop down menu to select different values.  *smacks head*

next, log  = audio, yes or no?
then I was going to ask about axial vs radial capacitors, but that has been addressed.

Thanks all of you.

[captntasty]

Yep log (logarithmic) = audio taper. 

[saemskin]

Last question:
(please dont laugh)

Where can I find something to show how to connect the 1/4" jacks and the battery cap?

It's not shown as part of the device in the schematic.  How do you know which type of jack you will need?  I did buy a switchcraft mono 1/4" because I'm certain that's what it takes, but most modulation effects are stereo, yes?  If this works out I want to try my hand at some delays.

Now that I'm typing, I dont recall buying any switches for the bypass.  Would that be something I can add later?  At this point I should tell you I have the ability to design and build any case I can dream up since I design and build steel contrivances as my day job.  Being that I have no intention on ever pluggin a guitar into anything I make, I would really rather have a much lighter duty toggle switch.  Ideas, links?

[captntasty]

Lot of great info on this site - here's a link to your specific query:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=content&task=category&sectionid=4&id=23&Itemid=200

[Mihkel]

Also:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg

You can easily leave the switch out by connecting the input jack tip to circuit input, output jack tip to circuit output. For a toggle switch, the same diagram would apply.

[saemskin]

after waiting 3 weeks for my pcb's to arrive I put together the AMZ overdrive as complete as I could.  I missed a resistor, a cap, and 2 pots were supposed to be log and I got linear.  Other than that, here's a few pics.  Does anyone see anything horribly wrong?

I am unsure of how I have the input/output wired.  I have input and output tips running to the In/Out locations.  The Input sleeve is ground.  9v+ is marked on the board, and I have the - going to the input ring.  Is this correct?







I post a few more pics once I fabricate the box.  I would be more than happy to hear any tips comments suggestions ridicule anything.  She's my first you know   

[markm]

Looks real good so far.
Very neat. 

[saemskin]

So I picked up the missing parts from Radio shack today, and nothing.....

It doesn't work.  Any suggestions?

[$uperpuma]

at the top of this section of the forum is a thread called "what to do when it doesn't work" VERY VERY helpful.. 90% of common problems are addressed in there...and it helps you tell us the info we need to help you get it going... looks ok to me, however I'd check for solder bridges VERY first..places where solder is touching each other and shouldnt be

[smnm]

It doesn't work.  Any suggestions?

Hi - did you solder the transistor and op-amp chip directly onto the board? The heat from the soldering iron might have damaged either of these, which is why it's usually reccommended to use sockets. They are also handy because it's easy to put transistors in wrong, and cool to be able to swap parts around

You can make a simple audio probe that will tell you how far your signal is getting, so you can hear where the problem is. I went for years without one, but I wish I hadn't! I use it all the time now, as I make lots of mistakes.
see Aaron's Simple Debugging article http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html


input and output wiring should work as described, but it's more usual to use the ring for both grounds and use the sleeve on the input for the battery negative wire. When I started I used all red wire, like you've used all black. It really makes it easier to see what you're doing if you have at least three colours of wire, if not four or five, with ground always green etc. Just helps to see things are in the right place.

[saemskin]

your name is making my eyeballs run together smmmnmmnm   
I am almost certian I totally screwed up the capacitors, and as you say I probably fudged the IC.  But let me just say thank you for that tool you put up there.  I may be a rookie, but I can see the value of such a thing.

Here's what the deal is. 
#1  The schematic is pretty clear about which Caps are Radial Electrolytic.  For whatever reason I used 2 of the "square" looking kind.  Those are going to have to come out I bet because they are not directional whereas the Radial Elec *are*.
#2  The pcb I have isnt exactly the same as the one on the schematic.  The lower left hand corner is arranged completely different and I had a bit of trouble understanding what goes where.  I will definitely go back through it.
#3  The IC?  Small Bear doesnt seem to have IC sockets unless I missed them.  If not them, then who?  Radio shack doesnt have them either.

Lastly, one of the above posters shows me how to hook up a bypass in a link to a picture.  What is that funny looking 3x3 red matrix thing?  I cannot find those anywhere either.

I have the PCB for the DS-1 Distortion and it is so much more clear about what goes exactly where.  Everything is clearly labled right on the board.  I am going to start working on that one whilst I trouble shoot the Overdrive.
You guys should be proud to know that my soldering ability has dramatically increased.  I have soldered about 8 pieces on the DS-1 board and each solder is a nice round little dot that doesn't extend beyond the boundary.  I CAN color in the lines!

Seriously though, I appreciate all the help.

[smnm]

But let me just say thank you for that tool you put up there.  I may be a rookie, but I can see the value of such a thing.

I was just going to bed when I did my post - I would have added some tips on how to use it - first you touch the board input to confirm the gtr signal is gettting to you circuit - then you progress through - it should generally get louder as you go through the circuit, but if there's nothing after the transistor you know it's either the wrong way round or you fried it.

#2  The pcb I have isnt exactly the same as the one on the schematic.  The lower left hand corner is arranged completely different and I had a bit of trouble understanding what goes where.  I will definitely go back through it. 

Sometimes the layout follows the pcb fairly closely, and sometimes it's unrecognisable, especially because they are designed to be as small as possble. It's definitely easier if they are someway similar!

#3  The IC?  Small Bear doesnt seem to have IC sockets unless I missed them.

I think they are under 'accessories' or something like that, he should have them. Some people use long strips and break off two pairs of 4 instead, but it's a little easier using the proper ones.

Lastly, one of the above posters shows me how to hook up a bypass in a link to a picture.  What is that funny looking 3x3 red matrix thing?  I cannot find those anywhere either.

Most people like the 3x3 thing as it means you can add an LED to tell you when your thing is on, but it's not strictly necessary - I don't bother.
It's a 3P3T footswitch or stomp switch. A DPDT (represented by a 2x3 matrix) still gives you True Bypass but is simpler to wire up and much cheaper. Aaron sells 3P3Ts for a good price in the store section  http://www.diystompboxes.com/cart/] [url]http://www.diystompboxes.com/cart/   
Also - check this article out for info on different kinds of switches http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/bypass/bypass.htm
DPDT wiring is shown nicely in many of the vero layouts in Dragonfly's gallery, like this one http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album17/386_FUZZ ignore the rest for now and just look at the bottom part - the pink wire goes from the input jack to the switch to the board input.

Read the the FAQs at the top of the page - I'd print the whole thing out, I still refer to it quite regularly.

I think it's a good idea to start with the simpler circuit first, there's less to go wrong, and easier to find the problem. Something like a Rangemaster Treble Boost is a good place to start - one transistor, one knob and a few caps + resistors. After 4 yrs doing this I still hardly ever get them working right off, but yr already on the right track with your neat wiring etc. Good luck with the DS-1.