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Etched Alu

Started by molitovv, August 30, 2006, 10:12:44 PM

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molitovv

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.120

on that page there is a pic of someone that has etched the alu front of thier box, they mention using nail polish, how do you achieve this effect?

cheers
matt

markm


Pushtone

markm's tutorial uses the PnP method used to make PCBs.

You can certainly use nail polish for that "organic look".

Etching and using PnP is a valuable skill.

Look here for more before you read markm's tut. It will cover the basics.

http://www.tonepad.com/photoessay.asp?photoEssayID=11&sequenceNo=1
http://www.tonepad.com/photoessay.asp?photoEssayID=10&sequenceNo=1

and don't forget our wiki - (shameless plug for self).
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=34304
http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=AllAboutEnclosures

The idea behind it all:
Ferric Chloride only eats metal.
And if the metal is covered by a mask made of either
nail polish or PnP (really plastic from photocopier toner) it can't get to the metal to eat it.

Please read up on FeC before using it. It can be messy and damage metal you might not want eaten.
It is also an environmental hazard and should never be poured down the drain.
If you do send it down the Mississippi your children will end up eating it in their fish-n-chips.

A lot has been written about using FeC on this forum but very little of it is about how to dispose of it.
Try to be friendly to your city water system and the fishies.  :'(

If you have well water then you might as well just put a couple of drops in your beakfast cereal if you pour it down the drain.
I'm serious, this stuff will not break down or be absorbed.

OK enough green talk.
Bottom line: it's super fun to do and when your mates ask how you did it you'll have tons-o-fun saying...

"I etched it with ACID". How cool is that!?!
It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

mydementia

Stupid question - should I designate one 'bin' for aluminum etching and another for PCB's? 
Wondering how the Ferric Chloride is breaking down the different metals...
Mike

fixr1984

My method is a little bit rough around the edges but it works good for me.
I print the size and style of lettering in Word and print it on address labels.
I stick the label where it needs to be, cut out the excess leaving only the letters.
Paint, peal the labels off and etch. I use murratic acid instead. It seems to work really well.
For me any longer than about 3 minutes and its a real deep etch.

markm

I would.
Your better off to use fresh stuff when doing either one.

RedHouse

Someone has managed to get their etched boxes into production, see this months Guitar Player, I think th4ey were braded "Moollon" or something like that.
(wonder if that person is from here)

Meanderthal

 Hey, thanks for the Hydrochloric(muratic) acid tip! I never thought of that! Much easier on the environment. I have a well. And several trays of spent nasty brown etchtant That I don't know what to do with. It DOES eventually dry after months, then I throw it away with the trash, but that ain't a real environmentally friendly way to get rid of it. That's all I could come up with, though.
I'm gonna hafta try this out someday(etching enclosures). Right now, I only have an inkjet, and am forced to use a sharpie for pcb etching. Looks sloppy as hell. I mostly just skip the etch and perf. So I guess I'm not ready for etching enclosures yet.
But they (markm's) sure look cool! Makes me wanna go buy a laserjet!
I am not responsible for your imagination.

markm

If I'm not mistaken, I think it's a Korean company.
They used my tutorial though I'm sure  :icon_razz:

formerMember1

Quote from: fixr1984 on August 30, 2006, 11:58:14 PM
I use murratic acid instead. It seems to work really well.

Fixr1984, Is the murratic acid work faster then ferric chloride? It seems murratic acid would be 100x more toxic and more fumes. I know guys who use that stuff on concrete, and it eats concrete right up.

fixr1984

Ive actually never used ferric on aluminum. Fumes, yes, It eats fast.
I pulled a box out after a few minutes, it looked like it need just a little bit longer.
I came back about a minute later and the acid was bubbling and smoking. The
box was almost un savebale. I like it cause its so cheap. Its about $3 usd for a gallon at the local
farm store. But anyway back to the original question, yes its toxic and fumes. Sorry i couldnt give
a better comparison to ferric chloride. If you do try this use in a well ventilated
area and cover your mouth and wear gloves. Wash very well when done.

formerMember1

I never etched a box with murratic acid. I tried once with ferric , and the box smoked and sizzled, smelled.  And It turned black. I threw the box out.  I only used a sharpie marker with one coat on it, and that is why.  It was way back when I didnt know what i was doing. I can't wait to try etching boxes. For me, etching then painting to fill labeling and etched parts, and then sand top surface would be ideal for me.

thanks for your reply.    :icon_wink:

darron

Quote from: RedHouse on August 31, 2006, 08:52:00 PM
Someone has managed to get their etched boxes into production, see this months Guitar Player, I think th4ey were braded "Moollon" or something like that.
(wonder if that person is from here)

yeah man.... i saw them a few months ago. someone mentioned them in a very early thread.

www.moollon.com

their guitars are ugly but the pedals look amazing. a few of them seem to just be clones. i.e. there's  silicon fuzz face, and a cylde mccoy wah
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

Meanderthal

100x more toxic and more fumes

HUH?

It's in your stomach right now. It eats concrete because it reacts with the calcium.(That's why tums & rolaids work!) I'm an ex bricklayer, and used it many many times to clean brick and block. Muratic is diluted hydrochloric acid. You can dip your hand in it if you have to. Got it on myself countless times, and never once an acid burn, (hurts when it gets in a cut or your eyes though) Will bleach jeans. It's used in swimming pools. In swimming pools!- to balance the ph. You actually SWIM in it(not much, but it's there all right)! It dosen't even kill plants(usually) unless they're alkaline soil loving types. Tastes like lemonade. (yep, got it in my mouth a few times, even probably swallowed some)

Might cause fumes with aluminum(did eat doorplates come to think of it), but I can tell you with all honesty it's not THAT dangerous! It's not sulphuric acid!(battery acid)

I'm not trying to be abrasive here, but facts is facts. If it worries you, you could always dilute it further and maybe etch slower- it still eats concrete diluted. And it IS water soluable.
I am not responsible for your imagination.

lumpymusic

Quote from: fixr1984 on August 30, 2006, 11:58:14 PM
... I use murratic acid instead. It seems to work really well.
For me any longer than about 3 minutes and its a real deep etch.

Would you care to elaborate, please? Do you use Muriatic acid as in
swimming pool stuff?

Please describe further!


Lumpy
--
You were the Ken-L-Ration St Bernard?
Yes. My dog's bigger.
www.lumpyvoice.net
In Your Ears for 40 Years
www.lumpymusic.com

fixr1984

The bottle says "muratic acid".  On the back it says it can be used for swiming pools or
to etch metal or concrete. The ingredients say 31.45% hydrochloric acid.
Does that help?

markm

I think Hydrochloric acid will eat just about anything except plastic.

Meanderthal

 WOW! 31.5 % That's a much more potent mix than what I was thinking! We used to get a 10% mix, 55 gallons at a time, and dilute that 50/50 to 5%.  Pretty safe at that strength. And yes, it is the swimming pool stuff, or also easily got at a hardware store- in the section where you get naptha, mineral spirits, denatured alcohol and such or in the masonry dept. It won't hurt plastics, glass, wood, paint, asphalt, roof shingles, teflon, leather, stainless steel, galvanized steel, maybe a few other things I never spilled/splashed it on. Actually I always thought it strange how it reacts so strong with some things and not at all with others... When you clean a wall some stuff foams (Especially the lime in the mortar/concrete)and some not at all...
If you have steel plumbing it WILL rust unless it's stainless. If you pour it down the drain(might unclog a drain) rinse well to flush and dilute it thoroughly. If you want to neutralise it use baking soda and stand back- it'll foam like crazy. Might want to do this in the sink or outside.
I am not responsible for your imagination.

markm

I think I'll stick with Ferric Chloride, if nothing else, it allows more control.

Meanderthal

 Yeah, markm, you certainly know what you're doing!  Those are easily the best looking enclosures I've ever seen(just my opinion, no offence to all the other guys with good looking enclosures!). There's absolutely no doubt that your methods produce outstanding results!

Jeeze- that might sound like boot licking, but those are amazing, especially the English Channel!
I am not responsible for your imagination.