bottoms to bowl enclosures!

Started by christobean, September 24, 2006, 03:29:01 PM

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christobean

i didnt want to distract the pictures thread, but i am wanting to get some ideas flowing on this because using a bowl would be cool, different, and cheaper than a lot of other enclosures.  so heres my ideas, every1 else add yours!

assuming you could get the right shape and size, a raco box lid might work...but the size and shapes of them are severely limited

im also thinking about cutting a piece of metal off the chassis of an old something...then having the edges folded up to screw to the bowl.  the bottom doesnt have to be too string as long as its sunk into the bowl and thats what is holding the weight.

markm

Plastic lid maybe ???
The board and electronics would remain fresh for days!

John Lyons



In the Trade section there was a very nice Skyripper made from a frying pan with a diamond plate lid.
Try something like this:

John









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markm

Quote from: Basicaudio on September 24, 2006, 04:44:34 PM
In the Trade section there was a very nice Skyripper made from a frying pan with a diamond plate lid.

Very cool.  8)

birt

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tungngruv

While at Lowes hardware store, I bought some "coupling bolts" that were about 1.25" long. They have a screw at both ends. You could drill a hole in the center of a bowl enclosure, attach the coupling bolt and then have a threaded hole at the bottom waiting for a bottom plate. And speaking of bottom plates, I also noticed round "drain" covers at the same store, up to about 8" in diameter, made of brass that could be drilled in the center for the bolt.   

kvb

I would go with your original idea of having tabs that are bent upward from a bottom "plate."
What about a sheet of copper/aluminum. It's easy to cut and bend. Then use sheet metal screws to secure it.
Bend the tabs so they go into the enclosure.

Leave the area in-between the tabs sticking out a bit so that it stops on the bottom of the enclosure, instead of falling in.

Drill the holes in the enclosure slightly oversize so that the screws are only grabbing onto the tabs and pulling them tight.   
Put the bottom plate on to the enclosure where you want it and then drill into it.

If you don't want to run the drill-bit through the circuit accidentally, here's what you do: put a piece of 3/4" thick wood into a vice. drill into the wood, so that the bit sticks out the other side about a half inch. Cradle the drill so you don't break the bit. And, pull the metalwork into the bit.


petemoore

  Trick for getting flat and round out of a larger sheet.
  Because the shears bend and stretch the metal, to get a nice flat piece that isn't 'tensioned' [so that it flips / bends to a slight convex or concave], cut the circuit 1/4'' or more larger first, then the second cut will bend only the thin [and easier to bend than the full sheet] 1/4'' strip trimmed off around the outside.
  Wear Heavy gloves...
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alderbody

Quote from: markm on September 24, 2006, 03:31:23 PM
Plastic lid maybe ???
The board and electronics would remain fresh for days!

:icon_mrgreen:  :icon_mrgreen:  :icon_mrgreen:  :icon_mrgreen:

jmusser

I've built a few like that. I made the bottom out of scrap aluminium from old VCRs. I recess the bottom plate into the pan the thickness of the metal, so it's flush, and let sit on 4 standoffs I have JB Welded to the sides. I drill the bottom and put screws in it, and then cover it with black 3/8" craft foam using a spray on adhesive. I usually mount the perf board through the middle using a bracket I make that the stomp switch goes through, so that there are no screws on top.
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