A/DA Flanger does TZF?

[StephenGiles]

But I have suggested time and time again that one section is built at a time and tested to make sure that it works before moving on to the next section. Just stuffing the board like there's no tomorrow (ring any bells?) is likely to result in disaster, unless you are working in an electronics sweatshop, and the nice gentleman in the next room tests the beast on a nice scope!

You're right, you did. So if it doesn't work I have myself to blame. I did take my time though and I'm fairly confident. If all should go wrong, I promise not to whine and complain about it.

Please don't think I'm being fierce, I'm really trying to help! The reason I make my suggestion is that my first attempt at this flanger which was on breadboard was not done as I now suggest, and I wasted many hours trouble shooting. In the end, I ripped out all the components in a rage and started again - having dropped the SAD 1024 on the floor and stepped on it making all the pins flat. I found it 30 minutes before our cleaning lady arrived!

[moosapotamus]

I do not have the board in front of me right now but I think I remember reading through this thoroughly, comparing the board to the notes and seeing that there was no junction between the cap and lugs 2 and 3. I'll have to go back and check it when I get home.

That is correct... there is no junction between C24 and lugs 2 & 3 of the Speed pot. That's why the notes say, "install a jumper to tie the positive terminal of C24 to the junction of the Speed pot lugs 2 & 3."

~ Charlie

[oldschoolanalog]

Oh yeah, make sure to print out the layout and schematic to study together....... blowing up the layout to full page size really helps you to see what's going on with the board and will make more sense along with the help of the schematic.

Wise advice. Also fill in your component values on the BOM as you install them. For EZ future reference/comparison.
Another good idea is to make note of the control & trimpot direction of travel on the circuit diagram. eg: arrow & direction. This is really useful when using multiturn trimpots, as I have done. You will thank me for this later...

[BMF Effects]

But I have suggested time and time again that one section is built at a time and tested to make sure that it works before moving on to the next section. Just stuffing the board like there's no tomorrow (ring any bells?) is likely to result in disaster, unless you are working in an electronics sweatshop, and the nice gentleman in the next room tests the beast on a nice scope!

You're right, you did. So if it doesn't work I have myself to blame. I did take my time though and I'm fairly confident. If all should go wrong, I promise not to whine and complain about it.

Please don't think I'm being fierce, I'm really trying to help! The reason I make my suggestion is that my first attempt at this flanger which was on breadboard was not done as I now suggest, and I wasted many hours trouble shooting. In the end, I ripped out all the components in a rage and started again - having dropped the SAD 1024 on the floor and stepped on it making all the pins flat. I found it 30 minutes before our cleaning lady arrived!

The thought never crossed my mind and no offense taken. I probably should have built and tested each section individiually but the wife was out for the afternoon, the tunes were playing on the Bose, the solder was flowing...you know how it goes.

[StephenGiles]

I tried to make the bounce circuit work on single supply last night and failed miserably, I must be missing something but tired eyes couldn't figure it out!

[StephenGiles]

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v317/StephenGiles/?action=view&current=Etide_contrl.jpg

Well lookee here - there is a 47k resistor from pin 2 of the last 741 to -ve which I omitted from my bounce drawing which could be the reason why I couldn't get it to work. But surely it is only a level shifting resistor?

What is that little network around IC 15 & 16 doing? Is it making sure that only positive voltages get through?

[oldschoolanalog]

ICs 15 & 16 look like a FWR to me.

[StephenGiles]

Yes, that's what I was thinking, but why FWR a DC voltage?

[oldschoolanalog]

Yes, that's what I was thinking, but why FWR a DC voltage?

That is curious. I had all sorts of half baked thoughts about this. Stability?
Methinks we have a *puretube moment* on our hands here...  Ton?

[StephenGiles]

I have the answer now I am back home, IC 15/16 buffer the output of the bounce control and prevent the possibility of any negative excursion (I knew it to do with a trip to the seaside!!) getting to the VCO by rectifying any negative signal output generated by the damped oscillation of the active filter - it says in the manual. I was right about the level shifting.

[petemoore]

  Wow, TZF thread posters have been doing alot of work, I'm trying to play catch up...an 'available' [thick/convincing] TZF method certainly would be cool to try out.
  I have some reading to do ! Kudos !

[oldschoolanalog]

I have the answer now I am back home, IC 15/16 buffer the output of the bounce control and prevent the possibility of any negative excursion (I knew it to do with a trip to the seaside!!) getting to the VCO by rectifying any negative signal output generated by the damped oscillation of the active filter - it says in the manual. I was right about the level shifting.

Thanks for clearing that up .

[StephenGiles]

I lurched over to Semiconductor Supplies International near Sutton yesterday in the sunshine before today's snow, to stock up with capacitors. In particular, I needed some 22uf electrolytics for the bounce circuit currently on breadboard. Would you believe they no longer stock them, something to do with being made of the wrong metal??? Apparently their entire stock was returned to the supplier. Is this some new crazed EC directive from Brussels??

[puretube]

I have the answer now I am back home, IC 15/16 buffer the output of the bounce control and prevent the possibility of any negative excursion (I knew it to do with a trip to the seaside!!) getting to the VCO by rectifying any negative signal output generated by the damped oscillation of the active filter - it says in the manual. I was right about the level shifting.

I would have guessed the same...


about that capacitor : "RoHS"...

[oldschoolanalog]

about that capacitor : "RoHS"...

RoHS strikes again!

[StephenGiles]

Ah, I'm forgetting - hexavalent chromium, polybrominated biphenyl (PBB) and polybrominated diphenyl - I suppose we have all been exposed to this stuff for years!!

[oldschoolanalog]

Ah, I'm forgetting - hexavalent chromium, polybrominated biphenyl (PBB) and polybrominated diphenyl - I suppose we have all been exposed to this stuff for years!!

And will continue to be exposed for years to come. 

[fuzzstrat]

Good heavens, I can't believe I read through all 27 pages. 3:30 in the a.m. and I am beat. 

This looks like an awesome project but it's far beyond my ability. Which of you kind souls would want to build one for me? 

[sfr]

Tried what I hoped would be an interesting mod today.  (Although I probably should finish calibrating the whole thing first, but well)  But I had a little problem.

I wanted a momentary switch, as I have songs where I want the flanger sound for just a bar or two.  I was also intrigued with having the vibrato function. 
I figured with all the pads on the board I could sort integrate this into one footswitch if I used an extra toggle.

I pulled the jumpers at C and D.  If I understand correctly, breaking C removes the clean signal (resulting in vibrato) and breaking D removes the flanged signal? 

I wired up the connections of C to the NC side of a momentary switch, and the connections of D to the NO side of the switch.  I also wired them to each to a 3PDT toggle switch, (center off) so that one direction C is broken, in the other direction, D is broken.  (Obviously, both are broken in the middle switch position).  Used the extra set of poles for LEDs. 

The idea was that with toggle switch in the center, the momentary switch would break C and close D (go from clean to vibrato).

With the toggle in the left, D is always closed, and the momentary footswitch opens C.  (go from flange to vibrato)

With  the toggle to the right, C is always closed, and the momentary footswitch opens D.  (go from clean to vibrato, what prompted this whole mess.)

Well, I wired it up, and tested with my multimeter - the connections all make and break as I expect, so I figure it should all work.   Thing is, it only sort of does - anytime C is broken and D is closed, I get vibrato, like I expect.   Anytime both are closed, I get flanging, like I expect.  But the thing is, breaking D doesn't get me clean signal - I still get flange, just not as intense a flange.  It's like the effected signal is still being mixed in, but not as much.

I suspect it's either a wiring thing I'm missing, or possibly my flakey switch - it's the only momentary I've got in the bin right now, an old X-wing I pulled out of an old project a while back that looks like it's been heated up too much - one of the legs is starting to come out.   I'll be checking both of those things here shortly.

Thing, testing with my continuity meter, everything checks out okay.  So does breaking D not kill the effected signal entirely?  Or am I likely just getting crosstalk or something because I've got wires running every freaking which way here?  Should I be grounding one side of those connections rather than just breaking them?

[oldschoolanalog]

Look at the circuit diagram (schematic). IC1b has several functions. Among other things, it: Creates the bias for the bbd. "Feeds" the bbd. "Feeds" the dry signal to the mixer, and, (now heres the rub) is part of the regen path. Look it over. As long as the regen is at minimum ("off"), with the switching arrangement you mentioned, you should get only dry signal, the way you want. The moment the regen is turned up, look what happens. You get dry plus wet signal at IC1b's output, which ,as previously mentioned, "feeds" the mixer. Manifested as the "weak" flange you mention. The wet and dry signals do not follow separate paths to the mixer (Think MXR, Boss, etc...) They are interactive. Maybe this is another reason the A/DA sounds so unique.  Maybe try somehow tapping the output of IC1a for your dry signal. Hope I didn't create more confusion . Take a step back, and reassess things.
Keep on Rockin!