A/DA Flanger does TZF?

[powerplayj]

For those of you not doing custom enclosures, what size did you use?  The 1790NS (5 5/8 x 4 5/8 x 1 9/16 inches) looks like it may barely fit the bill.

http://pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1700&Category_Code=ENC17

[oldschoolanalog]

Looks like that enclosure should work.(Note: I did not say will work.) My one concern is the board is 5 1/2" wide. Is the INSIDE of the box going to accomodate it? I'd first do a bit of research on this. If so...Things might be a little tight, so a bit of time/thought/planning will probably be needed to get things *just right*. I put my rev 1 in an LMB sloped front enclosure. 6" w X 8" d. I'm not putting it on the floor (love ez tweaking on the fly!), but at desk top/waist level; so the large size is not an issue. 
Any progress with the build?
Anybody?

[kahel]

The oscillator output of the 4047 (pin 13) goes to a pad marked TP - I'm sorry if I'm just showing off my ignorance here, but what exactly is TP?

K

[bluesdevil]

For those of you not doing custom enclosures, what size did you use?  The 1790NS (5 5/8 x 4 5/8 x 1 9/16 inches) looks like it may barely fit the bill.

http://pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1700&Category_Code=ENC17

Here's an inside pic of mine in a 1790NS:
http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album129/flangerinside

[StephenGiles]

Sorry, the switches aren't straight   

[StephenGiles]

The oscillator output of the 4047 (pin 13) goes to a pad marked TP - I'm sorry if I'm just showing off my ignorance here, but what exactly is TP?

K

test point?

[powerplayj]

And I still recommend building one section at a time, to ensure that all is well as you build. For an inexperienced builder this project would be quite a challenge, and faced with a fully populated board which doesn't work.............

Stephen (or anyone), when you say build a section at a time, how would I go about this?  Are you saying that I should build a section and then bypass the rest of the circuit to the output for sonic confirmation or should I build up to a certain point and check some key voltages along the way?  I'm not inexperienced as far as number of builds but, I am green when it comes to some of the troubleshooting as it relates to certain functions of a circuit and the calculations of expected voltages, etc.  I'm in the progress of populating my board now and am at the point of having all reisitors in place as well as sockets for all my ICs. 

Any guidance as to what sections to complete first and where to check my progress (via voltages, etc.) would be much appreciated. 

[StephenGiles]

What I am saying is more from the veroboard construction angle, because I never use a layout, I just solder as I go but it can still apply to a pcb. So, if I were to "populate" as seems the jargon an ADA Flanger pcb I would go about it like this:
1. input / output amps and Vb generator, test that all opamps have good signal at outputs, test that the Vb generator is giving 1/2 +ve voltage otherwise nothing will work!

2. LFO and manual CV generator test for changing voltage at Range wiper

3. Do all components from Range pot to 4049 and check that clock signals are each around 7v

4. Do components around SAD1024, set up bias and you should have flanging of sorts. I set up the rest by ear using the clock range and max clock trims.

This route would be more beneficial to a novice because it is possible to see each separate building block working on its own and makes it easy to remember where everything is in the board - good for troubleshooting. I would even draw round the various sections with a felt tipped pen as a guide.

[powerplayj]

BOM and layout Rev02 questions............

....just going off of Charlies BOM as a template I have a few questions...

C21 is listed as a tantalum.  Based on the schem it appears to be in the signal path.  Do I need a non-polar cap here?

C6, C17 - I assume the 2.2uf are not electros?

C8, C14, C19 - (100, 500pf) ceramics are referenced.  Should I upgrade to better quality or are these not critical as they relate to the circuit?

I took his excel BOM spreadsheet and created links for most of the parts.  PM me if you are interested...maybe I can host and post a link as well.

[oldschoolanalog]

BOM and layout Rev02 questions............

....just going off of Charlies BOM as a template I have a few questions...

C21 is listed as a tantalum.  Based on the schem it appears to be in the signal path.  Do I need a non-polar cap here?

>>>>>>>Yes, it's in the signal path. I used a 1uf poly film cap (NP) here. Tant/electro will work too. Just watch out for proper orientation.<<<<<<<

C6, C17 - I assume the 2.2uf are not electros?

>>>>>>>C6: I used 2.2uf NP electro. Works fine. C17: Used a 2.2uf electro. Note polarity printed on board.<<<<<<<

C8, C14, C19 - (100, 500pf) ceramics are referenced.  Should I upgrade to better quality or are these not critical as they relate to the circuit?

>>>>>>>C8 & 14: Ceramic should be OK here. I used Mica because thats all I had on hand. C19 is a part of a filter. I used Mica here as well, this is just a personal choice. I prefer higher quality parts for filter construction. Ceramic should work just fine.<<<<<<<

I took his excel BOM spreadsheet and created links for most of the parts.  PM me if you are interested...maybe I can host and post a link as well.

Note replies in box above this. I'm a bit burned out from work. I don't know WTF I did. Sorry.
Howzit goin' powerplayj?

osa

[StephenGiles]

I used whatever capacitors I had for the 2 I built and they sound exactly the same.

[powerplayj]

[/quote]
Note replies in box above this. I'm a bit burned out from work. I don't know WTF I did. Sorry.
Howzit goin' powerplayj?

osa
[/quote]

Going well..... I ordered from three separate vendors (Mouser, SB, Effects Connection) due to price difference and availability of certain components so as soon as the last bit of components arrive I'll be ready to start firing up a few sections of the board.  It's hard getting the parts order completely correct the first time unless you look carefully at the board and schematic together beforehand (this goes for any project with a high part count).  The fact that this is a "group" project certainly makes it easier though.

I can't wait to get it working in stock form.............haven't even looked into the mods yet and not sure what exactly they do.  I'll have to look at the mix/stereo outs, etc. to see if I can tie them into my delay.  Question... do most people use flange in the effects loop or at the end of their pre-amp chain?  I would assume the loop for those who have one...........

[oldschoolanalog]

Question... do most people use flange in the effects loop or at the end of their pre-amp chain?  I would assume the loop for those who have one...........

This is truly a matter of trying out various options, then deciding what works best for your sound.
This is the real fun part too  .

osa

[Giglawyer]

For those of you not doing custom enclosures, what size did you use?  The 1790NS (5 5/8 x 4 5/8 x 1 9/16 inches) looks like it may barely fit the bill.

http://pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1700&Category_Code=ENC17

I have a spare 1590 DD that I was going to use.  Do you think that will fit?  Or will I need the extra height of a 1790 NS?

[powerplayj]

For those of you not doing custom enclosures, what size did you use?  The 1790NS (5 5/8 x 4 5/8 x 1 9/16 inches) looks like it may barely fit the bill.

http://pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=1700&Category_Code=ENC17

I have a spare 1590 DD that I was going to use.  Do you think that will fit?  Or will I need the extra height of a 1790 NS?

It depends on a few things...mainly if you are going to position your 3PDT over the board (and possibly the same for your pots.)  Also, the 470uf electro is quite tall although you can bend it over if you don't solder it down to the level of the board.  Personally I think it can be done but you may not have much freedom in the placement of a few components that I mentioned above.  I'll try to measure the depth of my board (W/ components mounted) taking into account the switch depth and then let you know the actual depth.

[powerplayj]

What is the current draw???

......cannot seem to find it in the old A/DA manual, specs, etc.  I need to buy an 18V adapter and assume a 150mA is more than sufficient.

[oldschoolanalog]

~38 mA @ 18V. Measured externally. "Individual performance may vary", due to op amp choices. But not enough to really worry about.
So, yes 18V/150 mA is plenty.

osa

[moosapotamus]

Finally got one board built and wired up, and am attempting to "tune" it by ear, which is feeling like an excercise in controlled restraint. This thing is wild! It's got to be one of the most freaked out sounding effects I've ever built, or probably ever even heard. It's taking me a while to get my head around what all the trimmers do and how they interact. But, I'm having a blast getting there...

BTW, all the parts' values I used are exactly what is shown on my schematic, except for the output mixing resistors (R41 & R42). I used 27K instead of 68K. But, I think replacing them with a wet/dry blend pot might be a very worthwile mod.

~ Charlie

[oldschoolanalog]

Way to go, Charlie! 
Just a reminder; the "dry" signal at the output mixing resistors is only completely "dry" when the regen is "off".
Go to pg. 27, reply #539 of this thread for an explanation of this...
Keep on Rockin' !

osa

[Giglawyer]

Charlie:

Did you build a version 2, or did you do additional mods?