wiring 3 way diode switch for rat mod?

Started by hershey, December 01, 2006, 09:13:25 AM

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hershey

Just wondering what would be the best way to wire a 3 way switch for diode bypass, stock and turbo rat (+led) modes in a rat pedal? ala keeley?
Many thanks in advance.

heyniceguy

get a 3 position toggle on-off-on switch from radio shack. wire it like this.

*at the point on the board where the 2 diodes come together in the signal path, remove the diodes and build a diode array like this:

  "a"          "b"
__|__     __|__
|      |     |     |
|      |     |     |
--    --    --    --
Si    Si   Led  Led
--    --    --    --
|     |      |     |
|     |      |     |
--------------------- "c"

* the diodes are back to back, each going in an opposite direction than its twin.
* "c" gets connected to GROUND
* "a" gets connected to one of the Switch "ON" positions
* "b" gets connected to the other Switch "ON" position
* the center "OFF" position of the switch goes to where the original diodes connected to the signal path.

wham.

Seljer

get a DPDT on-off-on switch

the 2 middle lugs go to the places the diodes would be on the circuit, between the other 2 pairs of the lugs you hook up the clipping diodes/LEDs in opposite parallel

edit: hah, 15 seconds

dano12

Here's a rat mod diagram I did for the BYOC Mighty Mouse rat clone. Ignore the BYOC board and look at the switches for one way to do it:


hershey


jimbob

VERY AWSOME DIAGRAM! iM SURE THERE ARE A LOT OF THOSE OUT THERE THAT WILL FIND THIS USEFUL.

THANKS
"I think somebody should come up with a way to breed a very large shrimp. That way, you could ride him, then after you camped at night, you could eat him. How about it, science?"

$uperpuma

#6
DUDE Dano... that is TOO cool... thanks a ton. is that essentially how a FKR happens? one thing though... where it says lm386 did you mean the lm308?
Breadboards are as invaluable as underwear - and also need changed... -R.G.

dano12

Quote from: $uperpuma on December 01, 2006, 08:25:51 PM
DUDE Dano... that is TOO cool... thanks a ton. is that essentially how a FKR happens?

Glad you like it! Yep, I'm using boards from BYOC to build them. Keith as fantastic boards and you can buy them on their own and source the parts yourself.

If you want to take a stab at it, here's my wiring diagram for the FKR using the BYOC board.




zarathustra

Wow, that's cool. Is it possible to do dano-style 3-way diode switching on a stock ProCo Rat II, or does it only work on the BYOC clone? I've got an on-off-on DPDT, and I'd like to switch between MOSFET, stock, and LED, but I can't quite wrap my head around how to arrange everything. Where do the center lugs attach?

dano12

Quote from: zarathustra on December 08, 2006, 02:46:12 AM
Wow, that's cool. Is it possible to do dano-style 3-way diode switching on a stock ProCo Rat II, or does it only work on the BYOC clone? I've got an on-off-on DPDT, and I'd like to switch between MOSFET, stock, and LED, but I can't quite wrap my head around how to arrange everything. Where do the center lugs attach?

All the mods should work regardless of the PCB. You'll want to find the two clipping diodes on your rat board an work from there. I think the rat will have three diodes, one is simply for dc adaptor polarity protection. Ignore that one.

I don't think you can have three options with a single dpdt switch. If you want to post a pic of your rat pcb I'd be happy to take a look for the right pads...

petemoore

  Starting with LED's...connected...you get LED clipping [all other things in order inorder to do so...]
  By adding any other clipping elements to the connected LED's...of lower clipping threshold...the LED"s won't 'see' anything, the lower clipping threshold of Si or Ge diodes will clamp everything...the voltage can't get high enough to the LED's higher threshold...high threshold stays connected, add lower threshold...SPST...or whatever...
  Same but opposite with GE's, starting with say Si's, add Ge's while the Si's are still connected and you get pure Ge clipping.
  By putting the 'off' lug of a switch so that LED's are still there...connected as always...and both 'on' selections introduce lower threshold clippers like Ge/Si...3 way switching...you don't really need the third separate contact, just use the lower clipping threshold 'removal' to allow the higher LED threshold to see voltage and clip.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

zarathustra

Quote from: dano12 on December 08, 2006, 09:37:57 AM
All the mods should work regardless of the PCB. You'll want to find the two clipping diodes on your rat board an work from there. I think the rat will have three diodes, one is simply for dc adaptor polarity protection. Ignore that one.

I don't think you can have three options with a single dpdt switch. If you want to post a pic of your rat pcb I'd be happy to take a look for the right pads...
That'd be awesome, man. Thanks. Here is the component side of the board, and here is the solder side. Pictures are a little blurry, but the end of the diode array facing away from the LED is the one that goes to ground.

Quote from: petemoore on December 08, 2006, 10:34:52 AM
  Starting with LED's...connected...you get LED clipping [all other things in order inorder to do so...]
  By adding any other clipping elements to the connected LED's...of lower clipping threshold...the LED"s won't 'see' anything...
Okay, this makes sense. So if I use LEDs as the stock diodes, then I can add a pair of lower-threshold diodes to the circuit and sort of "preempt" the LEDs from affecting the signal. All the clipping will come from the lower-threshold diodes, correct?

And for the switch, could I just connect the center lug of an SPDT on-off-on to the pad where the two LEDs meet the signal on the board, then connect up a Ge or Si diode array on each of the outer lugs, with one end of each array going to ground? Does that sound right?

Alternatively, could I use the DPDT-type switch in dano's layout, with a pair of Si diodes swapped out for the LEDs on one end of the switch? Then I presume one of the center lugs would go to the signal path and the other would go to ground?

WGTP

http://www.procosound.com/ratindex.htm

The new SOLO seems to have taken some ideas from us here at the forum.   :icon_cool:
Stomping Out Sparks & Flames

grolschie

#15
Quote from: dano12 on December 08, 2006, 09:37:57 AM
Quote from: zarathustra on December 08, 2006, 02:46:12 AM
Wow, that's cool. Is it possible to do dano-style 3-way diode switching on a stock ProCo Rat II, or does it only work on the BYOC clone? I've got an on-off-on DPDT, and I'd like to switch between MOSFET, stock, and LED, but I can't quite wrap my head around how to arrange everything. Where do the center lugs attach?

All the mods should work regardless of the PCB. You'll want to find the two clipping diodes on your rat board an work from there. I think the rat will have three diodes, one is simply for dc adaptor polarity protection. Ignore that one.

I don't think you can have three options with a single dpdt switch. If you want to post a pic of your rat pcb I'd be happy to take a look for the right pads...

I too wish to do this mod to my stock Rat. So this new circuit is in parallel to the stock clipping diodes? Do we have LEDs and diodes in parallel?

This pic shows it different. Or does it not matter? Or am I confused? :-)


BTW, it looks like your "MOSFET" and "LED" labels could be the wrong way around on the "Overdrive Mod" section of the Mightier Mouse diagram. Or have I missed something. Great pic!. :-)

Izzy

Quote from: dano12 on December 01, 2006, 08:49:42 PM
Quote from: $uperpuma on December 01, 2006, 08:25:51 PM
DUDE Dano... that is TOO cool... thanks a ton. is that essentially how a FKR happens?

Glad you like it! Yep, I'm using boards from BYOC to build them. Keith as fantastic boards and you can buy them on their own and source the parts yourself.

If you want to take a stab at it, here's my wiring diagram for the FKR using the BYOC board.




DAMN which software is that?

Can you PLEASE tell me?


:o

Izzy

does anybody know which software he used for making that layout?

WGTP

I think I mentioned this in another thread, but using just a GE/Mosfet allows for multiple options.  GE/Mosfet, GE/Mosfet Body Diode, GE, Body Diode, Mosfet/Body Diode, etc.   :icon_cool:
Stomping Out Sparks & Flames

Izzy