WOuld this be possible??

[Papa_lazerous]

you said "There's one "Child Board" that might just suit you."

which one is it you where referring to?

[toneman]

The PAIA Stack-in-a-Box is not *that* complex.
U can order it with or without the front panel.
The instruction manual guiides U step by step thru the building process.
Even if U never even soldered before!!
The Theory of Tubes is in the manual along with the complete theory of operation.
It's a very good tube tutorial whether U're a begginer or not.
And, If U just can't get the project working, PAiA will fix it for U.
The SIAB uses "starved plate technology"....no HiV...only about 35VDC.
It's really cool. I built one and did several mods to it.
My building exploits used to be on Frank Clarke's pages, but don't know where they went.
google for TonyB's Stack in a Box....tons of gain.

the article used to be here...

http://members.shaw.ca/fclarke/fx/

maybe it's in the archives???  use the wayback machine.

stay DIY
afn
T

[JimRayden]

you said "There's one "Child Board" that might just suit you."

which one is it you where referring to?

the "Tube" one.

--------

I have always loved this article.

Though you might consider choosing a bit larger enclosure, a BB will be quite a squeeze.

One more tip for ya: don't attempt runnin' any tube circuits on a battery.

---------
Jimbo

[Papa_lazerous]

--------

I have always loved this article.

Though you might consider choosing a bit larger enclosure, a BB will be quite a squeeze.

One more tip for ya: don't attempt runnin' any tube circuits on a battery.

---------
Jimbo

Not even a big battery lol

Cheers for that made me chuckle I only run one thing off a battery and thats my muff and thats only as its positive ground havent sorted a supply out for it yet.  I digress..... The hotbox may well be a good option.  I know the originals are a very nice little unit.

I would probably but this in an enclosure more the size of a memory man I think.

Would it be best to have the transformer in a seperate box so that I can just plug a lead from the power into the pedal?  that way keeping all the juice in one place where my power strip is and just having a lead running to it.  maybe a bad thought hense asking

[Pushtone]

I was totaly going to build this one, but they are sold out of kits.
I like the tube out on top, exposed to the world.
http://olcircuits.com/olc_eclipsevalve.html


Dano12 built one and posted this description on www.beavisaudio.com

"OLCircuits Eclipse Valve Boost
This is quite an interesting design. A clean boost pedal with zero solid-state
components. It uses both halves of a 12AT7 tube run at 12 volts for a nice amount of
all-tube boost. The tone control is a very unique circuit, and the switch allows you
to go from a mid-boost to a treble boost. At first I was a bit skeptical about the whole
starved-plate design. But this one is truly different. Put it in front of your
favorite amp (tube or solid-state) and crank it up. Fantastic warmth and great tonal
control. I think Mark is going to have trouble keeping up with demand for this one."
http://www.beavisaudio.com/Projects/MiscPedals/index.htm

[JimRayden]

I've found a pretty good formula when playing around with tubes:

Mu-amp setup + starved plate + a little bit overdriven = FAT boost.

That little touch of ugly distortion of starved plates gives a bit of an evil quality to the sound when run into an overdriven amp. That's one very good reason for starving tubes.

I might post a schemo when I decide on a final design.

---------
Jimbo

[Papa_lazerous]

Done a bit of home work on the hotbox and found this schematic http://www.thejaffes.org/rory/hotbox/schem.pdf

it varies slightly from the other one (further up the thread) as its got a DPDT stomp to change between clean and distortion.  Everything looks the same pretty much, although when I look as the power supply one schem has a bridge rectifier specified the other doesnt, I think there may be somethign I am not understanding with this schematic any advice would be great as I can build the circuit easy but I got to fully understand the power

[JimRayden]

Done a bit of home work on the hotbox and found this schematic http://www.thejaffes.org/rory/hotbox/schem.pdf

it varies slightly from the other one (further up the thread) as its got a DPDT stomp to change between clean and distortion.  Everything looks the same pretty much, although when I look as the power supply one schem has a bridge rectifier specified the other doesnt, I think there may be somethign I am not understanding with this schematic any advice would be great as I can build the circuit easy but I got to fully understand the power

I'd use the 2-channel one. Using a clean tube stage instead of true bypass is a better choise in my opinion.

Tube heaters can be run either AC or DC. AC has proved to work pretty good without adding any hum if the wires are tightly twisted and not parallel with the signal wires. I'd choose regulated DC if building the power supply into a separate box. That way you'll only be bringing DC near the audio circuitry and avoid any possibilities for hum.

Take 12VAC, rectify and smooth it for 17VDC, feed that into a 6V regulator with a grounding diode to kick the voltage up a bit, smooth some more and it's ready to make those mamas hot.

---------
Jimbo

[Papa_lazerous]

Thanks for that, I didnt know they could be run AC or DC,

Will build the 2 channel one it sounds more appealing to me. 

If I keep the power in the same box and just make it bigger I can keep it AC as the schematic says then. 

The Transformer... the one specified is for 115V supply Hammond 269EX Thinking from looking at the hammond site the 369EX would be ok for me?

[JimRayden]

If I keep the power in the same box and just make it bigger I can keep it AC as the schematic says then. 

Ah, gotta be careful there. A regular stompbox layout is nothing like a tube amp. You'll have stompswitch on one end of the box and other audio circuitry on the other, so signal wires will be everywhere across it. Internal transformers will make that hum like heck if not designed properly.

You could solve it Electro-Harmonix style. With remote switching (FET or relay), you can place the transformer(s) right next to stompswitch and keep all audio signals around the knob area. That's what I'm doing with my new bass-disto design.

The Transformer... the one specified is for 115V supply Hammond 269EX Thinking from looking at the hammond site the 369EX would be ok for me?

369EX looks like it'd be fine, though you'd need quite an enclosure to accommodate the Hammonds. Besides they're a bit of an overkill. I suspect that a back-to-back setup would take up less real estate (check out the Real McTube power supply).

----------
Jimbo

[petemoore]

  Lost last try, here's short version.
  Takes up board space, so...[what?
  Bolt through center holed tube socket, then spacer, then board, washer, nut.
  Bolt was countersunk style head, I countersunk the socket hole, so it's  about flush, doesn't touch pins of course.
  Spacer is a wide writing Pen tube, or other cylinder with square flat end cuts, about 3/4''..however high you want the socket lugs over the board.
  This mounted the tube to the board, the assembly/board mounts in the enclosure.
  Washer is nylon or isolated, and keeps the nut from crushing through the bottom of the board, and pins the spacer/board better.
  A strip of wood along a non holed board edge [long dimension] adds structural rigidity.
  easy to do and fairly easy work with, not quite as solid as a mounted on substrate tube socket.

[Papa_lazerous]

cheers for that JimRayden  I will have a proper look at that link havent had any on-line time over new year  Hopefully have a read and digest it in the next few hours.

Going to do some more home work on this as I feel its not that simple a project to just jump into With what you said about remote switching with Fets or relays before I will have to find out more as I know what you mean but I dont know how to actually do it lol

Sorry petemoore I dont know what I missed but your last post didnt make sense to me