how big of a knob for rotary switch?

Started by powerplayj, January 19, 2007, 07:38:32 PM

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powerplayj

will these cut it?





or do I need to step up to the these?




Smaller is better for size constraints but I don't want the Davies knob to slip either.
builds completed: boutique fuzz, rangemaster, BSIAB2, PT-80, Tonepad wah, Ross Comp, Axis Fuzz, MOSFET boost, Thunderchief, Big Muff (triangle), Mr. EQ, Dr. Boogey,  Neovibe, Dist+, EA Tremelo, ADA Flanger, RM Octavia
next build(s): ???

Ronsonic


Depends on how strong your fingers are and how tough a switch it is.

Ron
http://ronbalesfx.blogspot.com
My Blog of FX, Gear and Amp Services and DIY Info

John Lyons

The small knob should be fine. It does depend on the switch though as noted above. The Norlin switches are nice and the aren't too "stiff".
As long as you crank down the set screw well you should be fine.

John

Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

sfr

I had a rotary switch where the knob constantly slipped, so I ground the shaft into a D-shaped one and tightened the set screw against that.  If your switch already has a D-shaped shaft, as some of them do, you should have no problems at all.
sent from my orbital space station.

Processaurus

Quote from: sfr on January 19, 2007, 08:45:12 PM
I had a rotary switch where the knob constantly slipped, so I ground the shaft into a D-shaped one and tightened the set screw against that.  If your switch already has a D-shaped shaft, as some of them do, you should have no problems at all.

Absolutely.  Thats a good way to do it.  Then there are no worries about stripping the set screw.  If there are graphics already, you can file it with it installed in its enclosure, then you'll be sure it matches up.

The might as well be big (unless you don't like how it looks), because most rotary switches are larger than pots, so there can't really be anything real close to the center of the switch mounted in the box anyway...

powerplayj

...found an extra Davies' knob  but it wasn't deep enough to be flush on the pedal top.  The rotary is a Norlin with a plasic shaft.  I'll try an MXR knob.
builds completed: boutique fuzz, rangemaster, BSIAB2, PT-80, Tonepad wah, Ross Comp, Axis Fuzz, MOSFET boost, Thunderchief, Big Muff (triangle), Mr. EQ, Dr. Boogey,  Neovibe, Dist+, EA Tremelo, ADA Flanger, RM Octavia
next build(s): ???

RickL

Cut the shaft if that's the knob you want to use. I have to cut the shafts on just about every pot I use to get them to sit the way I want. I use a fibreglass cutoff wheel in a Dremel, holding the shaft with a pair of visegrips (on the pot side of the cut). The visegrips give me a convenient way to hold the pot and also act as a heat sink. I'm sure a hacksaw would work every bit as well if you could hold the switch in a vise, or a hot knife since it's plastic.

John Lyons

The Norlin shafts are too tall for most knobs at any rate. I have used a couple so far and I cut off the excess both thimes to get the knob to sit flush. Good thing is that they have D shaft already so it won't slip.

John

Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

Ronsonic

Quote from: powerplayj on January 19, 2007, 09:37:50 PM
...found an extra Davies' knob  but it wasn't deep enough to be flush on the pedal top.  The rotary is a Norlin with a plasic shaft.  I'll try an MXR knob.

Even if it were a metal shaft, the answer would be to just cut it to length.

Ron
http://ronbalesfx.blogspot.com
My Blog of FX, Gear and Amp Services and DIY Info