Russian (black) Small Stone, a few questions regarding mods (TB, volume)

[joelap]

Hey all, I searched for around 3 hours here and google and basically spun my wheels for a while.  Mostly a ton of dead links, unanswered questions, or links to places that want to sell me their mods.  Here's the situation: today I modded my small stone for a boss-style 9V jack and did a variation of the bright mod to it, no problems with either.  I decided to tackle the volume drop problem next.  I finally found in this thread: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=16092.0  that Keko changed the 3k3 to a 10k and the 4k7 to a 6k8 and that solved the problem.  Great.  So now I changed the resistors to his values, but there were three 4k7's on my board, so I guessed and changed the one going from an emitter to ground (I read elsewhere that was the one to change).  I fired up the pedal without plugging in and now the LED isnt working.  So I figure, great something must be wrong.  I put the old resistors back in place, and still the LED isnt working.  So I try everything I can to get the LED to work again with no such luck.  I replaced the LED for a different one, and it still didnt work.   I've got an audition tomorrow at 11:45AM at UCONN, so I gotta be up and outta my house with the rest of the band for at least 9:00AM with the weather we're having in CT.  it's not crucial the LED be fixed by then, but I'd like to try.

Maybe the reason I cant get the dang thing working is because I dont understand the bypass circuitry.  But unfortunately, all the information available is for issue J boards or the USA ones, I cant find squat for the russian small stones, and not to mention, none of the resistors or caps are numbered.  As of now, I'd like to find some info on 1) true bypassing the russian model and 2) eliminating the volume drop on the russian model.  Anyone with any info is greatly appreciated.

Again, sorry for posting a question that seems to be beat like the proverbial dead horse, but I've been searching for a while with no luck, and actually set myself back some in the process of trying to do it blind.

Many thanks,

Joe

[joelap]

anyone?   

[g.]

hi,
look at the 3dpt switch,
the wires can be broken

i've moded my small stone reissue
and the wires at this place weren't solder very well...

edit : also look at the led polarity

[joelap]

Checked the LED poilarity, it was good.  I'm going to true bypass it, but I cant find the spot on the board where the input to the effect is.  I'll give it another look sometime today.

[thedefog]

Hi there,

Trace the input jack tip path on the PCB. You'll see it goes to a 100k resistor, and that there is also a wire in the same path that goes out to where the original bypass switch is. That 100k resisitor is the effect input. The reason it is always on is so that, a) they can get away with a spdt switch, and b) the phaser can constantly have a load to generate sound. This is the subtle swish you hear in the background when the pedal is disengaged, and the reason for the tone sucking.

You can disconnect the end of the 100k that is connected to the trace going to the input tip, and run a wire from that end to your switch to TB it, but you might notice a delay when you initially activate the phaser. Sorry I can't be more helpful, I'm just looking at the schematic here.