Switching on re-boxed TS-5 (bargain TS-8)

[chris scott]

Hey all,

  Pure desperation drives me to post this thread! I am a luthier/ player down here in Costa Rica. I re-boxed a TS-5 Tubescreamer pedal out of necessity, ( I grew weary of input jack issues, not for true-bypass) and am having a REAL hard time finding any info on switching.

  I tried a regular wah-type switch, which led me to discover the whole buffered/ FET switching deal in these and other pedals. Fine and dandy. I stuck a momentary-contact switch robbed from a Rivera combo switchpad laying around my shop, thinking "oh boy-problem solved" -Nope. My guess is too much resistance inside the switch, as I have to hit the switch as many as 10-15 times before it goes on, yet only once always turns it off. When I touch the two wires to the switch in a positive (yet obviously momentary) fashion, it works fine. I really don't care HOW I effect a reliable switching method- it can be true OVERpass for all I care- I just want to be able to use the darn thing!

So here's the deal- the first (probably ONLY) person who can either show me a diagram (or direct me to a site that has one) that will solve this VERY OLD issue, enabling me to use this very essential pedal, will be elegible for a FREE surf lesson here at my place in Costa Rica.

  No, I'm not gonna fly you down here, but if anyone can help me, I will be forever in your debt!

TIA,
Chris     

[Cardboard Tube Samurai]

Should be able to find what you need here http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=172&Itemid=200

Best option I'd say would be the 3PDT with true bypass as seen here http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_ig_dcjack.gif

Best place to get the 3PDT switches is through Smallbear Electronics... do a search... there is a link on this site somewhere.

[sfr]

To do the true bypass around the whole circuit as described, you'll need to modify the effect to have it always be "on".  This topic has been explained better by others than I, I think you should be able to find it with the search function.

The problem you have (having to hit to switch many times) sounds like it may be from switch bounce - check out the Tone God's site, he has info on switch de-bouncing.

http://www.geocities.com/thetonegod/debounce/debounce.html

The resistor/cap debouncing will probably work decently in this situation, (at least, it did last time I had to de-bounce a switch for it to work properly with a pedal bypass) but I'd recommend reading the whole page. 

Another option that I like when working with momentary switches is to use a tactile switch (similar to the ones inside of modern boss and ibanez pedals) with an actuator (a little plunger type mechanism that allows you to stomp down hard and only transmit the small amount of force required to turn on the microswitch without breaking it)  Smallbear Electronics carries all the parts you need for this, and one of the tutorials or photoessays or whatever describes how to implement this solution.  (I believe it's the one about tooling a shell for your pedals)

Other thing that springs to mind that may be the cause here - many momentary switches have more than one set of poles, or may be double throw.  Some of the ones with just a single set of contacts are actually normally closed - you want to make sure the set of contacts you're using in any case are normally open, and close when the footswitch is depressed.

[chris scott]

To do the true bypass around the whole circuit as described, you'll need to modify the effect to have it always be "on".  This topic has been explained better by others than I, I think you should be able to find it with the search function.

The problem you have (having to hit to switch many times) sounds like it may be from switch bounce - check out the Tone God's site, he has info on switch de-bouncing.

http://www.geocities.com/thetonegod/debounce/debounce.html

The resistor/cap debouncing will probably work decently in this situation, (at least, it did last time I had to de-bounce a switch for it to work properly with a pedal bypass) but I'd recommend reading the whole page. 

Another option that I like when working with momentary switches is to use a tactile switch (similar to the ones inside of modern boss and ibanez pedals) with an actuator (a little plunger type mechanism that allows you to stomp down hard and only transmit the small amount of force required to turn on the microswitch without breaking it)  Smallbear Electronics carries all the parts you need for this, and one of the tutorials or photoessays or whatever describes how to implement this solution.  (I believe it's the one about tooling a shell for your pedals)

Other thing that springs to mind that may be the cause here - many momentary switches have more than one set of poles, or may be double throw.  Some of the ones with just a single set of contacts are actually normally closed - you want to make sure the set of contacts you're using in any case are normally open, and close when the footswitch is depressed.

Hey sfr,

   Thanks for that. Jeez- I had no idea this was so involved! Interesting info, and I'll check the orientation of the switch as per your recommendation. Could you give me some kind of an idea what value cap/resistor to use?

Thanks again!
Chris

[chris scott]

Should be able to find what you need here http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=172&Itemid=200

Best option I'd say would be the 3PDT with true bypass as seen here http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_ig_dcjack.gif

Best place to get the 3PDT switches is through Smallbear Electronics... do a search... there is a link on this site somewhere.

Hey CTS-

Thank you for posting this, and I'll look into the 3pdt switch.
Chris

[sevenisthenumber]

What are the values of the resistor and capacitor.
How do the connect to the switch? I dont get it.....