Finishing touch to my V847

Started by enigmur, April 02, 2007, 09:41:06 PM

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enigmur

I have modded my wah to the point where the stock inductor has to go.

So Far I have added a 3PDT switch, I've added 100k pots/external knobs for controlling the Input level and the 'Q', ive done the sweep cap and other resistors on the board.

What are the main differences between the red and yellow Fasels? I am keen to order one from Aron but would like to hear some nice differences.

I read that the red is slightly cleaner, but I have controls which really do effect this aswell.

I want a wah which really sings in solos but has a really nice sound on clean aswell.

What are your preferences?
Quote from: jlullo on May 02, 2007, 12:37:12 AM
i have to get my hands on some of your germs.  very soon.
Anywhere but here, that would seem odd...

tcobretti

I think if you search you should find some info, but to my ears the yellow is dirtier and more Hendrix, while the red is a little cleaner and more brittle sounding.

I really like both of them, and I think deciding which is right for you has a lot to do with your rig.  If you play humbuckers or a semi-acoustic, I'd use the red, and I use the yellow for my guitar with single coils.

It's not a bad idea to buy both and use a DPDT switch to toggle back and forth at will.

enigmur

Both it is then  :icon_biggrin:

How possible would it be to add a switch to change between inductors? I would just want your basic toggle switch to mouth externally. What kinda switch would I need to look at?

That would be pretty cool if you ask me. Don't inductors have 4 pins under them which connect to the PCB? Hmm does sound tricky, but if you can suggest any ideas on how it could work i'll give it a go once I order the Fasels.
Quote from: jlullo on May 02, 2007, 12:37:12 AM
i have to get my hands on some of your germs.  very soon.
Anywhere but here, that would seem odd...

tcobretti

There are four pins, but only two of them are connected to the coil.  On the Fasels, they only have two connections.  To wire a switch, you just wire a DPDT thusly:

   Y   I   R
   Y   O  R

The Ys are the yellow Fasel's legs, the Rs are the red Fasels legs, and the I and O are the wires that go the where the old inductor soldered to your board.  As you mentioned, there are four solder pads on the wah's PCB, so make sure you pick two that are not continuous.  Another thing I like to do is put trimpots on the mid resistor and bass resistor so I can tune them to the inductor.  It's been a while, but I believe I use 5k and 1k respectively.


enigmur

#4
Right, I got my order today, I have a mini 2PDT toggle for when I get my Fasels.

I also got a bunch of capacitors and my 6 position rotary switch.

Now there are 12 tabs in a circle on the back, and two in the centre.
Would I connect the two in the centre to where the cap goes on the wah PCB?
When I connect the range of caps to the switch, do i just connect them for example,
0.01uf one leg to tab 1, 2nd leg to tab 2.
0.015uf one leg to tab 3, 2nd leg to tab 4
0.022uf one leg to tab 5, 2nd leg to tab 6
ect...

Does that seem right? The switch has 6 settings (6 turns) I assume it selects two tabs with each position?

I also recieved my credit card thismorning so can send off an order to Aron for fasels (who said Friday the 13th was so bad?)

One last question on my wah,
If i were to connect a small red LED (3mm) to my 3PDT switch, what value resistor should I use? Do I place the resistor anywhere between the switch and the power source? Can I run a cable directly from the + battery terminal to power the LED?
I tried this with a 100R resistor and when I turned it on, it seemed the LED was draining all the power, the pedal wouldnt make any sound.

Thanks!
Quote from: jlullo on May 02, 2007, 12:37:12 AM
i have to get my hands on some of your germs.  very soon.
Anywhere but here, that would seem odd...

alderbody

#5
Quote from: enigmur on April 12, 2007, 10:29:56 PM
Right, I got my order today, I have a mini 2PDT toggle for when I get my Fasels.

I also got a bunch of capacitors and my 6 position rotary switch.

Now there are 12 tabs in a circle on the back, and two in the centre.
Would I connect the two in the centre to where the cap goes on the wah PCB?
When I connect the range of caps to the switch, do i just connect them for example,
0.01uf one leg to tab 1, 2nd leg to tab 2.
0.015uf one leg to tab 3, 2nd leg to tab 4
0.022uf one leg to tab 5, 2nd leg to tab 6
ect...

Does that seem right? The switch has 6 settings (6 turns) I assume it selects two tabs with each position?

I also recieved my credit card thismorning so can send off an order to Aron for fasels (who said Friday the 13th was so bad?)

One last question on my wah,
If i were to connect a small red LED (3mm) to my 3PDT switch, what value resistor should I use? Do I place the resistor anywhere between the switch and the power source? Can I run a cable directly from the + battery terminal to power the LED?
I tried this with a 100R resistor and when I turned it on, it seemed the LED was draining all the power, the pedal wouldnt make any sound.

Thanks!

1) about the fasels, you could listen to my Wah clips.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/userfiles/index.php?&direction=0&order=&directory=public_downloads
I have them both in my Wah.
Just try the magnet trick. You'll be amazed.

2) the 6-pos switch. The two internal leads indeed go where the cap-leads would.
The other leads have a different formation.
If i remember well, it's 1 with 7, 2 with 8, etc
Just make sure by shorting the two internal leads (output) and with the beeper run the continuity check.

3) a good LED resistor value is 8K2. That's what i always use and i never had a problem.

EDIT: IMHO nothing beats a Carling DPDT in a Wah. I tried a 3PDT with an LED in the past but i went back to the "original".
The Carling has a longer "neck" and it suits that application better.

enigmur

Thanks Alder!

I just put away my gear after giving up on the 6pos switch, now I'll try that tomorrow.

Ive heard your wah clips, I am certainly going to give the magnet a go.

I will also try a higher resistor on the LED and see how it goes.

When wiring up the caps to the 6 position switch, how did you do that? I tried just wiring the legs to the pegs, but I was thinking perhaps mounting them to a small bit of vero board could be easier?

Anywho, I'll have a go tomorrow and see how it goes, Thanks a ton for the help!
Quote from: jlullo on May 02, 2007, 12:37:12 AM
i have to get my hands on some of your germs.  very soon.
Anywhere but here, that would seem odd...

alderbody

Quote from: enigmur on April 13, 2007, 04:24:04 AM
When wiring up the caps to the 6 position switch, how did you do that? I tried just wiring the legs to the pegs, but I was thinking perhaps mounting them to a small bit of vero board could be easier?


I wire the components directly on the leads of the switch.

here's an example (rangemaster input caps):


If the component leads are kinda short or already trimmed off, use some cable extension.

caress

wiring the components to a little piece of vero or perf can definetly look better, but soldering directly to the switch gets rid of all those extra little wires you would need.  i guess it's up to your patience and aesthetic.

enigmur

I got my red and yellow Fasels from Aron.

I soldered them to a small piece of perf board, and attached it to the same bolt which holds the runner against the pot for the wah. Then wired it to a 2PDT mini toggle.

It sounds great, it really cries. There is a cery subtle difference between the two, yellow is better with distortion, and I like red more with cleans.

I also modified the pot slightly to give me more treble on the toe end.

I might change the sweep cap back down to .01uf from .015uf because I feel it could use a bit more treble.

Very cool though, I have the most pimped V847 I've seen! Ill try remember to post pics tonight
Quote from: jlullo on May 02, 2007, 12:37:12 AM
i have to get my hands on some of your germs.  very soon.
Anywhere but here, that would seem odd...

Paul Marossy

Quoteyellow is better with distortion

I think so, too.  :icon_cool:


enigmur

I attacked my wah last night and added sockets for a lot of components.

There is one thing I'd like to rid of.

That is a hump in the sweep, it seems to be from bass to mid, quite early on. If you quickly move the pedal it gives this ugly whack in the sweep.

I have the stock transistors, would putting lower gain ones in possibly help?
Could it just be the pot taper?

Its mostly if im running it into a drive pedal or distorted amp, it sounds great clean. But yeah it seems to be a big boost in volume for a tiny bit od sweep which adds an un-natural hump.

Im using fasels.
0.01uf sweep cap
390ohm for bass/gain
2k2 for mids
A pot where the 33k 'vocal' resistor, and a pot for the input resistor.

Any combinations you suggest with Fasels?? I noticed they are darker and smoother than the stock inductor - hence the 0.01uf sweep cap, it give it a bit more high end.
Quote from: jlullo on May 02, 2007, 12:37:12 AM
i have to get my hands on some of your germs.  very soon.
Anywhere but here, that would seem odd...

hendriko

first of all...awesome mods!!

i'm planning on slightly modding my v847 too (making it a vintage sounding and looking (no switches, pots..) wah)

one question though, for the volume pot, seeing that a lower ohmage gives more volume, did you use a reverse audio taper pot?
Gimme gimme shock treatment.

enigmur

Quote from: hendriko on May 24, 2007, 08:04:41 PM
first of all...awesome mods!!

i'm planning on slightly modding my v847 too (making it a vintage sounding and looking (no switches, pots..) wah)

one question though, for the volume pot, seeing that a lower ohmage gives more volume, did you use a reverse audio taper pot?

Nope, since its used as a variable resistor, it just wired it backward  ;D I was trying to figure out how i did that last night actually
Quote from: jlullo on May 02, 2007, 12:37:12 AM
i have to get my hands on some of your germs.  very soon.
Anywhere but here, that would seem odd...

anti-idiot

what kind of "Q" Control are u using? the 1k pot. in series with the inductor, or the 100K instead of the 33k (or #k in series with the 33k, which is almost the same) im just curious about the difference between the 1k-Inductor or the 33k-100ktrim... any subtle difference?
If I was God you'd sell your soul to...

hendriko

Quote from: enigmur on May 24, 2007, 08:16:06 PM
Nope, since its used as a variable resistor, it just wired it backward  ;D I was trying to figure out how i did that last night actually
oh ok, i see :P

smart...
do you have pics posted in the pic thread?
Gimme gimme shock treatment.

enigmur

Quote from: anti-idiot on May 24, 2007, 08:30:11 PM
what kind of "Q" Control are u using? the 1k pot. in series with the inductor, or the 100K instead of the 33k (or #k in series with the 33k, which is almost the same) im just curious about the difference between the 1k-Inductor or the 33k-100ktrim... any subtle difference?

Im using a 100k pot instead of the 33k resistor, I read of people using 33k, 48k, 68k - or 100k here (Mcoy). So I thought i'd try a resistor there.
Basically the pot effects the depth of the wah to my ears. Turned down it has no wah effect, as you turn it up, it gets more deep.

Hendriko - Yes I have pics in the pictures thread, they shouldnt be more than a few pages back.

What effect does putting lower gain trannies in have on the sound??
Quote from: jlullo on May 02, 2007, 12:37:12 AM
i have to get my hands on some of your germs.  very soon.
Anywhere but here, that would seem odd...

hendriko

^yea, i saw the pics...looks awesome

but, if you only look at looks...i prefer the "vintage" nothing else but wah look :P

cheers
Gimme gimme shock treatment.

marcoharder

How do you do the magnet trick? Any links to a how to site? :)

anti-idiot

Quote from: marcoharder on May 25, 2007, 01:18:31 AM
How do you do the magnet trick? Any links to a how to site? :)

just put a small magnet (dont use ceramical ones) close to the inductor and play.
If I was God you'd sell your soul to...