thoughts on Digitech Space Station eprom copying?

[chewyjustice]

Hey all,
Just finished reading this whole thread, and I think I understand what I need to do to make my XP100 into an XP300. Is anyone still able to burn an eeprom chip and send it to Australia?

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Hey all,
Just finished reading this whole thread, and I think I understand what I need to do to make my XP100 into an XP300. Is anyone still able to burn an eeprom chip and send it to Australia?

To be totally honest, unless you can find someone locally to burn it for you..... it would be comparable in price to just buy an EEPROM burner and do it yourself. Seriously.

After the price of the chip and shipping (from most locations) it would add up to about the same costs.

Food for thought. 

[digi2t]

Something else to chew on...

When talking about burning a chip locally for this project, I think one's mind might stall at "I need to find someone that works on pedals, effects, consumer electronics, etc.". Chip burners are really big with auto tuners too. Know anyone that does some tuning in their spare time? Maybe a local dyno shop? Call them up, chances are they might have a burner. Slip them the .bin file, the chip, and a couple of bucks (maybe a 6'er of beer if it's really hot out), I can't see them not being more than happy to burn your chip for you.

[chewyjustice]

Hey all,
Just finished reading this whole thread, and I think I understand what I need to do to make my XP100 into an XP300. Is anyone still able to burn an eeprom chip and send it to Australia?

To be totally honest, unless you can find someone locally to burn it for you..... it would be comparable in price to just buy an EEPROM burner and do it yourself. Seriously.

After the price of the chip and shipping (from most locations) it would add up to about the same costs.

Food for thought. 

Thanks for the idea. I thought it would be a waste to buy it and use it only once, but it might be worth it if i can get one cheap

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[chewyjustice]

Something else to chew on...

When talking about burning a chip locally for this project, I think one's mind might stall at "I need to find someone that works on pedals, effects, consumer electronics, etc.". Chip burners are really big with auto tuners too. Know anyone that does some tuning in their spare time? Maybe a local dyno shop? Call them up, chances are they might have a burner. Slip them the .bin file, the chip, and a couple of bucks (maybe a 6'er of beer if it's really hot out), I can't see them not being more than happy to burn your chip for you.

Hmmmm great idea. I'll have to have a look around and see if this is an option

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[qwerty8787]

Hi everyone,

a bit OT, hope you don't mind.

I have a bypass problem in my pedal. It never goes bypass basically.

Can someone measure the voltage on R13 (on the "via" side) while pedal is active AND while pedal is in bypass? I'm getting weird voltages, would be helpful to double check with a working unit.

Thanks in advance!

[slacker]

Can someone measure the voltage on R13 (on the "via" side) while pedal is active AND while pedal is in bypass?

Here you go, the via end of R13 should be 5 volts in bypass and 0 volts when the the effect is on. The via end is connected to pin 8 of the SC80C31 chip, so you should get the same voltages there as well. I'd guess the most likely problem is a bad bypass switch, or bad connection from the switch PCB to the main board.

[clayton9610]

Thanks everyone for making this happen.  I dusted off my broken xp100 and recently repaired it to stock.  Anyone know the best place to find the capacitors and jfets needed for a straight xp300 conversion in Canada?  Can I substitute j1113a(as listed in xp300 schematic) with j113? 

Cheers

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Thanks everyone for making this happen.  I dusted off my broken xp100 and recently repaired it to stock.  Anyone know the best place to find the capacitors and jfets needed for a straight xp300 conversion in Canada?  Can I substitute j1113a(as listed in xp300 schematic) with j113? 

Cheers

Yes... you can use J113.

Keep in mind that to convert from XP100 to XP300 there are more parts than just caps and JFETs needed. 

If you are in Canada, I suggest contacting "digi2t" for a link to parts sourcing. I heard he is like the Canadian Godfather of DIY   

[clayton9610]

He's the reason I have a working xp300 now!  He sent me the chip a while back but I had broken two of its pins among other mishaps. 

I have the xp100 version with the program stored in the eprom and the u8 smd ic already soldered in.   I fixed numerous broken traces, repaired the eprom pins, and haphazardly wired capacitors with missized/broken leads and now have the xp300(in mono). 

I am blown away by the effects.  I thought it was just hype and had almost given up the mod.  So grateful for everyone's contribution. 

[digi2t]

If you are in Canada, I suggest contacting "digi2t" for a link to parts sourcing. I heard he is like the Canadian Godfather of DIY   

I think that title rightfully belongs to Mark Hammer. I'll be more than happy with the "Court Jester" title though. 

Mouser has them in stock.
http://ca.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Discrete-Semiconductors/_/N-awhng?Keyword=j113&FS=True

[chewyjustice]

Thanks everyone for this great resource. I have my xp100 space station convert working perfectly now and its just as great as i was hoping for.

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[digi2t]

That's what I like to hear!

[FuzzAldrin]

Finished mine! Just an XP-200 converted to XP-300 with output volume mod. I can post pics if anyone wants. I painted mine.
Question: Is setting #9 "octabass" mostly useless? I am getting almost zero octave down effect. Other than that, its really cool!

[marmaliser]

Seeing as you have gone to the trouble of painting it lets have a look

Yes #9 "octabass" is mostly useless. 

[caleboaks]

Revisiting this thread 2 years after completing a dual 100/300 build. I don't use the stereo capabilities and, as such, I can't remember if I ever tested the stereo output on the space station side. I just tested it, and I get a crackly, low-output signal from the "dry" output in both 100 and 300 modes. I'm confused about what this would mean, since I thought I killed the 100's dry output when I did the mod, and thought that it should work in space station mode. This in-between result is hurting my head.

Can someone (@Govmnt_Lacky (I'm not worthy)) summarize the part of the mod necessary to get stereo working in space station mode? It's fine if the dry output is sacrificed in whammy mode.

My understanding was that I needed to install C63, Q5, Q10, and remove R30. I thought I did that, but I'll check again. Is there anything else? Would a mistake on one of the other mod components affect stereo output?

[MüThing]

As silly as it may sound, check if the crackly output is the same on every program. If it only occurs on a few such as the Synth Strings but not on Octabass then it may be a RAM issue.

[digi2t]

Ensure that the R30 jumper is removed. If you installed the other components, then 300 mode should be stereo, and 100 mode nothing. Maybe bad jfets? Or...

As silly as it may sound, check if the crackly output is the same on every program. If it only occurs on a few such as the Synth Strings but not on Octabass then it may be a RAM issue.

I concur. Check chip speed. Ensure that it is not slower than what's prescribed in the build doc. If the distortion is only on certain patches, and you have spare SDRAM chips, then use another chip, and swap it in. Process of elimination to check if you have a bad SDRAM chip. Not all the patches use all the memory, some are heavier than others, so MuThing's point is valid.

[plbuzz]

Hi guys, I have followed through this thread and made notes and have gone over the posted instructions - thanks to everyone who has contributed and for making this information available.

I have a long question - please confirm that the correct wiring for the piggy-backed eproms is to have all of the like numbered pins on each eprom soldered together (e.g. pin 01-01, pin 02-02, etc.) (with or without sockets) except for the following:
1) solder a wire to the hole for eprom pin 20 in the circuit board only - (this wire goes to the pedal function selector switch)
2) bend pin 20 on each eprom and solder a wire to this pin - these wires also go to the pedal function selector switch
3) solder a 10K 1/4W 1% metal film resistor between pin 28 and pin 20 on each eprom

Please let me know if I have these details correct and thanks,

Peter

[digi2t]

Hi guys, I have followed through this thread and made notes and have gone over the posted instructions - thanks to everyone who has contributed and for making this information available.

I have a long question - please confirm that the correct wiring for the piggy-backed eproms is to have all of the like numbered pins on each eprom soldered together (e.g. pin 01-01, pin 02-02, etc.) (with or without sockets) except for the following:
1) solder a wire to the hole for eprom pin 20 in the circuit board only - (this wire goes to the pedal function selector switch)
2) bend pin 20 on each eprom and solder a wire to this pin - these wires also go to the pedal function selector switch
3) solder a 10K 1/4W 1% metal film resistor between pin 28 and pin 20 on each eprom

Please let me know if I have these details correct and thanks,

Peter

Covered in the XP-ALL build doc;

Part 1 - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51928

Part 2 - http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51931

Even if you don't piggyback all 4 modes, same rules apply for 2 or 3 modes. There's even a nice sketch on page 29 that gives you the lay of the land.