etching question

[DBDbadreligion]

will this paper work for etching my own PCB?
http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=622234&D=2%20glossy%20paper&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntt=glossy%20paper&N=100000&uniqueSearchFlag=true&Ns=p_Price_2|0&Nr=100000&Ntk=all&An=text

[DBDbadreligion]

also since i dont have a laser printer, couldnt i technically print a layout with my inkjet printer onto glossy photopaper and go over the printed layout with a sharpie?  then it would transfer?

[markm]

Is PnP blue not an option?

[DBDbadreligion]

i just dont feel like having to order it everytime i want to make a PCB.
but dont you still have to use a laser printer for PnP blue?

[jlullo]

a laser printer, or you can photo copy onto the PNP. 

People have used photo paper, and some have even had decent consistent results.  That being said, I'm not about to spend my time experimenting with the stuff when PNP blue has been good to me since day one.  I've never had a bad transfer.

[markm]

i just dont feel like having to order it everytime i want to make a PCB.

Order alot!!    (sorry!)

but dont you still have to use a laser printer for PnP blue?

Unfortunately, yes.
What you suggest would probably work but how well remains to be seen.
The photopaper thing works wonders for some. Me?? I'm a PnP blue guy.
Drawing the traces is very old-school and should work but, is time consuming and not as reliable a mask.
Just an opinion.

[DBDbadreligion]

well if i took a sheet of PnP blue to kinkos, would they let me put it into their copy machines?

[jlullo]

yup.  that's what i do every time. 

I draw an x on the corner of the top piece of paper, Photocopy the layout onto that sheet, tape the square of pnpb onto the photocopied design, and then reorient the paper in the tray (using the x as reference) and hit it again.


if anyone gives you trouble, just let them know that you're a professional and in full control of your own destiny

[markm]

well if i took a sheet of PnP blue to kinkos, would they let me put it into their copy machines?

Wasn't someone here having problems with the new Kinko's machines though?
Seems the toner is different maybe? I can't remember now.

[jlullo]

i'm sorry, i lied... i go to Office Max!

[markm]

i'm sorry, i lied... i go to Office Max!

Okay....I feel better now!!
How 'bout you?!!

[DBDbadreligion]

ok well ill look into that.
i found and article with pictures of someone who uses an inkjet printer, to make his PCBS.
http://www.netscape.com/viewstory/2006/05/09/pcb-etching-with-an-inkjet-printer/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fprojects.dimension-x.net%2Farchives%2F77&frame=true

[jlullo]

i'm sorry, i lied... i go to Office Max!

Okay....I feel better now!!
How 'bout you?!!

haha WAY better 


Nick,
go for it if you're feeling ambitious   there's nothing wrong with giving it a shot!

[markm]

ok well ill look into that.
i found and article with pictures of someone who uses an inkjet printer, to make his PCBS.
http://www.netscape.com/viewstory/2006/05/09/pcb-etching-with-an-inkjet-printer/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fprojects.dimension-x.net%2Farchives%2F77&frame=true

Yeah but, those are them there photo-expose boards.
That's different than what we're talking about here.

[DBDbadreligion]

oh so you cant iron on?

[DBDbadreligion]

this guy uses an inkjet and irons on.
go to post number 14.
http://www.hackaday.com/2005/12/26/printed-circuit-board-etching/

[DBDbadreligion]

bump

[GREEN FUZ]

I`m not sure whether the inkjet print would work. I say that cautiously as I`ve never tried it but my understanding is that it`s the composition of the toner used in laser printers/photocopiers that makes for an acid resistant mask. Perhaps the poster is confused about what sort of printer he has . I usually get prints from the nearest copy center, ask them to make it darker than normal. If I could use my Inkjet though that would be great. Let us know how you get on, if you try it.

[Mark Hammer]

ok well ill look into that.
i found and article with pictures of someone who uses an inkjet printer, to make his PCBS.
http://www.netscape.com/viewstory/2006/05/09/pcb-etching-with-an-inkjet-printer/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fprojects.dimension-x.net%2Farchives%2F77&frame=true

Whoa camel.  I said WHOA camel!   I said WHOA camel!!!

The article you link to here uses photolithography.  I.E., the inkjet is not printing to a sheet that is subsequently transferred to the board as a resist layer.  Rather, the inkjet is used to provide hi-res images on clear acetates that are used to expose photosensitized copper boards.  The boards are then developed and THAT is what provides the resist layer.

Toner transfer, whether PnP or glossy paper, assumes that whatthe prionter spits out IS what will be transfered to the copper board directly.  Just regular old copper-clad board with no fancy photosensitive emulsions on it.  The toner is critical to the process because it is what binds to the copper when heated and drags the emulsion from the transfer sheet (whether blue on acetate or white on photo-paper) along with it.

PnP works great but gets kind of pricey if the boards are big or if you want to print out multiple copies of a pattern so as to have a backup copy in the event of ironing mistakes.  Glossy photo-paper is a damn sight cheaper, but has some limitations as far as resolution goes because the white emulsion breaks off the paper backing in a more ragged way than the blue emulsion breaks off the clear acetate sheet that PnP comes on.  If the traces/pads and spaces between them are nice and accommodatingly big, then glossy paper works more than well enough at a fraction of the cost.  If the traces are tightly spaced and kind of on the lean side, my preference is to go with PnP because it has the better resolution.  If the pattern requires that a trace pass between the pads for IC pins, go with PnP.

[DBDbadreligion]

ok well ill look into that.
i found and article with pictures of someone who uses an inkjet printer, to make his PCBS.
http://www.netscape.com/viewstory/2006/05/09/pcb-etching-with-an-inkjet-printer/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fprojects.dimension-x.net%2Farchives%2F77&frame=true

Whoa camel.  I said WHOA camel!   I said WHOA camel!!!

The article you link to here uses photolithography.  I.E., the inkjet is not printing to a sheet that is subsequently transferred to the board as a resist layer.  Rather, the inkjet is used to provide hi-res images on clear acetates that are used to expose photosensitized copper boards.  The boards are then developed and THAT is what provides the resist layer.

Toner transfer, whether PnP or glossy paper, assumes that whatthe prionter spits out IS what will be transfered to the copper board directly.  Just regular old copper-clad board with no fancy photosensitive emulsions on it.  The toner is critical to the process because it is what binds to the copper when heated and drags the emulsion from the transfer sheet (whether blue on acetate or white on photo-paper) along with it.

PnP works great but gets kind of pricey if the boards are big or if you want to print out multiple copies of a pattern so as to have a backup copy in the event of ironing mistakes.  Glossy photo-paper is a damn sight cheaper, but has some limitations as far as resolution goes because the white emulsion breaks off the paper backing in a more ragged way than the blue emulsion breaks off the clear acetate sheet that PnP comes on.  If the traces/pads and spaces between them are nice and accommodatingly big, then glossy paper works more than well enough at a fraction of the cost.  If the traces are tightly spaced and kind of on the lean side, my preference is to go with PnP because it has the better resolution.  If the pattern requires that a trace pass between the pads for IC pins, go with PnP.

thanks, for clearing stuff up.

will this paper work for etching my own PCB?
http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=622234&D=2%20glossy%20paper&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntt=glossy%20paper&N=100000&uniqueSearchFlag=true&Ns=p_Price_2|0&Nr=100000&Ntk=all&An=text

will this paper work