Trouble Finding Ground Hum Problem (Pics)

Started by railhead, July 25, 2007, 11:32:04 PM

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CGDARK

Quote from: railhead on July 26, 2007, 01:37:16 PM
But why does my version need this extra "work" if the Fuller's didn't (seen in the pic above)? The only thing I'm doing different is using the insulated jacks -- so I can see why I need to run a ground from the signal ground to the shell. But why do I need to tap the DC jack onto the switch if he didn't?

Thanks again!
Maury

For the same reason. Check the wiring for the resistors to the LEDs, one LED will be brighter than the other, because you solder the two resistor in series. Compare your wiring with the Fuller and you'll see.

CG

railhead

Quote from: CGDARK on July 26, 2007, 02:43:41 PM
For the same reason. Check the wiring for the resistors to the LEDs, one LED will be brighter than the other, because you solder the two resistor in series. Compare your wiring with the Fuller and you'll see.

Hmmm....

1. I have DC positive to LED resistor/positive then LED negative back to switch.
2. I then tried to do what I thought Fuller did: went from the first resistor/LED leg to the second LED's resistor/positive (then back to the switch).

On his layout, he says he used a 10K resistor on one LED, and a 2.2K resistor on the other. So, I'm guessing he wired his parallel, too, and compensated for the brightness with different resistors?

If I didn't want to go in series, all I would have to do would be tap another leg between the DC jack and the second resistor, right?

CGDARK

Quote from: railhead on July 26, 2007, 03:06:37 PM
Quote from: CGDARK on July 26, 2007, 02:43:41 PM
For the same reason. Check the wiring for the resistors to the LEDs, one LED will be brighter than the other, because you solder the two resistor in series. Compare your wiring with the Fuller and you'll see.

Hmmm....

1. I have DC positive to LED resistor/positive then LED negative back to switch.
2. I then tried to do what I thought Fuller did: went from the first resistor/LED leg to the second LED's resistor/positive (then back to the switch).

On his layout, he says he used a 10K resistor on one LED, and a 2.2K resistor on the other. So, I'm guessing he wired his parallel, too, and compensated for the brightness with different resistors?

If I didn't want to go in series, all I would have to do would be tap another leg between the DC jack and the second resistor, right?

He said that, but if you look very closer the resistor are in parallel and yes you can "tap another leg between the DC jack and the second resistor", but the resistors must be of the same value like 2.2k.

CG

railhead

Okay, I got home and ran a ground from the signal ground to under the switch, and this sucker is dead silent! SWEET!  :icon_lol:


THAT SAID, I'm still confused as to how I have my resistors wired differently than Fuller -- I've been looking and looking, but I just don't see what I did...  ???

CGDARK

Quote from: railhead on July 26, 2007, 04:55:26 PM
THAT SAID, I'm still confused as to how I have my resistors wired differently than Fuller -- I've been looking and looking, but I just don't see what I did...  ???

He ran a wire from the DC jack to the two resistors (tied together at one end) and then solder each resistor to their respective LED. You ran a wire from the DC jack to one resistor then soldering it to the corresponding LED and from this connection (not from the DC jack) you soldered the other resistor and then to the LED. ;)

CG

railhead


CGDARK

Very good. Always double check (or check as many times as needed), because our eyes can play tricks on us.

CG ;D