Help figuring this out

[GREEN FUZ]

Right. Where to start.

First off I have a minor doubt about the layout you`re using. I`m not sure C2 and R4 are correctly placed. That said I`m not all that familiar with Veroboard as I never use it.

Which brings me to my next point. As I said the layout you`re working from is Veroboard. As far as I can tell from the scan you`ve provided, you are working on stripboard. With veroboard one needs to provide all the traces between components either by soldering the legs of components together or by means of lengths of wire to form the circuit. With stripboard some of those connections are already provided in the form of electrically conductive strips of copper which form the board but you will have to make cuts where no connection is needed.

Personally I hate stripboard having had a couple of unsuccessful attempts using it. I find the gaps between the strips too inviting for stray blobs of solder to create unwanted bridges.

Which brings me to my next point. Soldering technique. Yours looks not unlike my first few attempts. Suffice to say it`s something that needs practice. Just to make the point, this is my first effort.

It never worked. Unless you count the loud humming noise it made when plugged in. (If I could get it to hum in tune I might be onto something. The Hum-Master ?)


I would be tempted to start again with a good stripboard layout. Let me know and I`ll point you in the right direction.

(couple of posts were made while I was writing this so apologies if this sounds repetitive)

[oskar]

(couple of posts were made while I was writing this so apologies if this sounds repetitive)

Anyone with an album like this... needs never apologize in anyway what-so-ever
http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album174

cold solder NO.1?


oskar

[dannyg]

So let me get this correct. I need to cut the connection of the copper board so that the copper doesn't connect components in that strip? Can I just use a knife to make cuts down the copper?

[oskar]

Whatever does the job... since you've made all the connections in other ways you just cut all the traces in between solder-joints.

[CGDARK]

So let me get this correct. I need to cut the connection of the copper board so that the copper doesn't connect components in that strip? Can I just use a knife to make cuts down the copper?

Yes, but only the ones that are shorting the circuit. And yes you can use a knife, but carefully ( cut only the traces not your fingers).

CG

[dannyg]

I dont want to start cutting the wrong things so I need to clarify something. I understand what you mean and the reason behind it. But for some reason I can't seem to spot which ones they are. Could you please point them out so I dont cut the wrong thing?

[GREEN FUZ]

Anyone with an album like this... needs never apologize in anyway what-so-ever
http://aronnelson.com/gallery/album174

You`re too kind.

cold solder NO.1?

The first of many.

So let me get this correct. I need to cut the connection of the copper board so that the copper doesn't connect components in that strip? Can I just use a knife to make cuts down the copper?

Yes you can use a knife if needs be. I`ve used a drill. You can also use a proprietary tool the name of which escapes me presently. Basically any means to sever those connections. Particularly where, for example you might have a capacitor or resistor lying across the length of the strip.

Look this shows it better than I can explain it.



I would recommend you to use this layout as it particularly applies to stripboard. It even indicates exactly where to cut.

p.s If anyone wants this removed for copyright infringement I am only too Happy to do so. (i`m such a slow typist. Three more posts while I was pecking this out)

[CGDARK]

The problem is you made a layout for perfboard and used a veroboard. Check the GREEN FUZ's layout and see what I'm saying.

CG

[oskar]

I dont want to start cutting the wrong things so I need to clarify something. I understand what you mean and the reason behind it. But for some reason I can't seem to spot which ones they are. Could you please point them out so I dont cut the wrong thing?

It depends... If you have treated it completely like a a veroboard (the ones with little islands), then you have not used the
traces as conductor at all, right? Then cut between ALL solder joints... just cut, cut, cut, cut...   
If you've used the strips as conductors, part in the construction then I can't advise you... too much thinking. Thinking bad. Cutting good.
The easiest thing would be to start all over with a veroboard. The next easiest (in my opinion) would be to cut between ALL joints and
then use shielded wire from the component side to fix it if you cut one trace to many...

EDIT! Two posts up... REDO with this layout... you'll be rocking tonight!

[dannyg]

I think I will redo with taht layout thank you. Need a little advice though. The board I have is only conductive on one side. Do the components go on this side and I solder on the same side aswell? Or does it go underneath? Also, on that layout, how do I tell which is each pin on the transistors?

[CGDARK]

I think I will redo with that layout thank you. Need a little advice though. The board I have is only conductive on one side. Do the components go on this side and I solder on the same side aswell? Or does it go underneath? Also, on that layout, how do I tell which is each pin on the transistors?

No, the components go on the "components side" (the one without copper traces). For the transistors pins, check their respective data sheets.

CG

[dannyg]

I need a little of advice because I don't think my resistors will fit just two tracks.

[GREEN FUZ]

Don`t worry, they will. It doesn`t all have to be laid out flat. To make a nice compact layout designers often have components sticking up. As long as the two legs connect where they are meant too you can bend them any way you like..

Some words of advice.

Print out the layout. If you follow it exactly you will succeed. Don`t forget it is viewed as though looking at the non conductive side. Note there is a bridge to be made which is the blue line directly below R1. If you have a spare resistor you can cut one of the legs off, bend into shape and solder into place. Otherwise just use a small section of wire. Don`t forget to cut the traces where indicated (red dot within red square). There`s one under R3 aswell. Careful with that knife  .

Take your time.

Careful with the soldering. Only use as much solder as is needed to make a connection. Don`t get any in the gaps between the traces (copper strips). Don`t apply the heat for too long as some components are sensitive to it. Particularly transistors.


As I`m in a good mood I`ll even help you with them.



2N3906 viewed from below obviously.

ac128`s come in different packages. I don`t know what yours looks like so you`ll have to go here.http://forum.musikding.de/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-1082
There may be a red dot or a small tab which usually indicate collector and emitter respectively.


And finally, if there was any doubt I`ve marked on Andrew`s layout where the pins should go.


Try following the original schematic while consulting the layout, it`s a good way to learn. Good luck

[dannyg]

wow, thank you very much. You guys have been very helpful.

About the resistors, alot of them have already been cut short. Can I just solder some lead back on?

I also find this site useful for transistor pins

http://modecideas.com/faq91.html

[GREEN FUZ]

Yes, if you need to you can solder a surplus bit of wire on to extend the leg.

One last word. C1 and C2 are electrolytic capacitors meaning they are polarized and need to be correctly oriented. The little bit of grey shading on the layout shows the negative side. There is usually a marking on one side of your cap to indicate negative. Make sure it matches the layout. Keep us posted.

[dannyg]

^ I already knew that but thank you

Ok, ive done the board, I just need help connecting it up to the external wires. You see, i'm not sure what all the different things on the side of the layout mean.

[GREEN FUZ]

Most of it is pretty self-explanatory.

-9v will be,  in this case, the black lead from your battery clip. Just solder it to the hole in the corresponding trace.

The rest all relates to the pots, potentiometers, controls, whatever you want to call them.

Viewed with the shaft facing away from you and the lugs pointing downwards, they are, in order., 3, 2 and 1.

Again solder the lugs to their respective holes as indicated on the layout.

What sort of jacks have you got? Open or closed? Is the input jack stereo?

In any case you will need to solder a lead from the middle ( otherwise known as the wiper) lug of the volume to one of the lugs on your output jack. The other jack lug is connected, in the same manner, to ground which in this case is the bottom trace marked g. Find a spare hole and solder it in.

[dannyg]

Im just concerned because it's totally different to the original way I had it wired. By this I mean things such as, I have pregain 3 connected to the footswitch. Does that mean I need another wire ?

[GREEN FUZ]

Don`t be concerned. There`s more than one way to skin a cat.


Apparently.


There`s still a couple more connections to be made after that. You`re using a DPDT switch, right?

[slacker]

Im just concerned because it's totally different to the original way I had it wired. By this I mean things such as, I have pregain 3 connected to the footswitch. Does that mean I need another wire ?

pregain 3 doesn't go to the footswitch. You need a wire going from hole b1 to the footswitch, that's the input wire.
Also make sure you cut the trace under R3 it's a bit hard to see on the layout.