Lovetone Flange With No Name - Clone Thread

[electricstorm]

OK, got my Lovetone Flanger boards yesterday! Does this motivate anyone yet? LOL




Jim

[Govmnt_Lacky]

@Jim,

Some nice looking boards you got there!!!

The only concern now is that ALL of the diligence was correct and there is nothing missing (i.e. missing traces, components, etc.)

[armdnrdy]

Yes,

It is difficult to get excited about a project where the majority of the files are stamped "Not Verified".

It looks like those involved have done a great job!

There's a old saying, "The proof is in the pudding" In this case we'll amend it to, "the proof is in the flanging"

Good luck with the build!

[digi2t]

I'm watching this thread, with bated breath. This is one of my " Gotta build it!" wanna builds.

[Dave W]

I'm watching this thread, with bated breath.

Me too. I want to see how far that 3102/3207 chip set can be pushed.  

[Strategy]

I'm watching as well please post results!
strategy

[Taylor]

I built one of these years ago from the files available on this forum, and I got it working with some poking around, so the files can't be that far off. I don't have it anymore so I don't have much to contribute other than to say it's possible to make one of these things.

I'm actually not a big flanger fan so I can't really comment on how this is better than others out there, though. Best of luck!

[electricstorm]

Yes,

It is difficult to get excited about a project where the majority of the files are stamped "Not Verified".

It looks like those involved have done a great job!

There's a old saying, "The proof is in the pudding" In this case we'll amend it to, "the proof is in the flanging"

Good luck with the build!

This is true, Would be better if I could get verification on the work done so far. Need someone that has one to step up and verify some of it please.

I built one of these years ago from the files available on this forum, and I got it working with some poking around, so the files can't be that far off. I don't have it anymore so I don't have much to contribute other than to say it's possible to make one of these things.

I'm actually not a big flanger fan so I can't really comment on how this is better than others out there, though. Best of luck!

Do you recall if there were 1 or 2 BC307B's on the board and maybe what the value of C6 was (tantalum cap) or if D2 is a 1N4148, 1N914? Any help would be appreciated.

@Jim,

Some nice looking boards you got there!!!

The only concern now is that ALL of the diligence was correct and there is nothing missing (i.e. missing traces, components, etc.)

The boards were verified before etching. The parts, that's another question. I do know the LFO works as I breadboarded that. Pin 7 of the IC is the square wave output and pin 14 is the triangle wave output.

I am still working on it, but with Christmas approaching, may have to put it to the side for a few days (or not!!).

Stay tuned!

Jim

[Taylor]

I'm afraid I don't remember those details, but for any diode that looks like a 4148/914 that's exactly what I'd use. For the power diodes I used 4001s. I started to trace out the circuit once but got flustered at the magnitude of it and gave up! Hate to be a spoil sport but at this point I' probably get a flanger Hoax instead of building another one of these, as the build was kind of a nightmare. I don't know why Lovetone didn't design the things with less wiring. I'd do a jack board with a ribbon cable and cut out many hours of work and debug time...

[electricstorm]

I'd do a jack board with a ribbon cable and cut out many hours of work and debug time...

That's not a bad idea Taylor! I may give that a go.

[electricstorm]

Parts have started coming in for the Flanger. So far I have the pots, the transformer, some resistors, diodes and the MN3207, MN3102.
I will start populating the board soon. Should have some more parts by the first of the week. Still waiting on the transistors and other
resistors and capacitors.

Jim

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Jacks are on the way Jim!!! 

[electricstorm]

Thanks Greg! Really appreciate it a lot!!

[electricstorm]

OK, I have made some progress on the Lovetone Flanger. I've confirmed that the LFO is working. The Rate, Depth and Manual controls appear to be functioning as they should (don't have an Oscope, need to get one soon) by observing the LED's. I have a smooth transition from off to on (Traingle Wave) and a definate on/off (Square Wave) on the green led (LED6, "Time" on the schematic).

The Manual Control controls the H.B. Green LED on the daughter board (MN3102 and MN3207 connected to this board from "R" on the main board or collector of Q17). Fully CCW, the led is fully on. Fully CW, the LED is off. Settings in between adjust the brightness (this is with the Rate and Depth controls fully CCW or off). Now, when you add the Depth and Rate, interesting things start to happen. With Manual set fully CCW, the daughter board LED barely flickers. but the main board green LED flashes as it should. When the Manual control is fully CW, the daughter board LED and the main board LED (LED 6, green) alternately flash at an intensity and rate determined by the Depth and Rate controls. It should be noted that the main board LED is not as bright when the daughter board LED and main board LED are working together.

The only curious thing is that LED 2 (one of the LED/LDR combos) is dimly lit and is constantly on. No flashing or on/off is observed regardless of where the Rate, Depth, and Manual controls are set. However, I don't have the the rest of the associated circuitry set up either so this may or may not be the reason for this behaviour.

As far as the LFO section is concerned, it seems to be working. The only thing is connections "M", and "N" (main board schematic) are not yet connected. This includes the following, which have not been confirmed:

R55
C25
R56
R57
D2
Q13
R58

D2 I don't have a value for yet. I assmume it is a 1N4148, but upon reading the user manual, I'm beginning to think this might be a zener. Here's what the manual says about the Trig/Gate:

This is a dual-function socket which allows stop/start and continous synchronization of the LFO.

Gate: Connect a mono jack all the way in. A POSITIVE dc voltage of between 0.7v and 15v will "freeze" the LFO as long as it is applied.

Trig: Connect a mono jack in half-way. NEGATIVE going edges of a gate signal (square wave) will sync the LFO (and will only interrupt its motion while the transition is made). An audio signal of sufficient level (I.E line level) can also be used to sync the LFO (particularly in the bass region). Results, however, may be somewhat erratic compared to the GATE method and depends largely on the nature of the audio signal.

There are other details associated with both the TRIG and GATE, but what I listed above is what made me think it might be a zener (to clamp the max 15v).

So, there you have it for now. I'll continue to work on this project and keep you updated. Any thoughts on the progress so far or the possibility of D2 being a zener, let me know.

Cheers,

Jim

[electricstorm]

Still waiting on the LDR's, but here are pictures of the populated boards I had made:



D2 (to the left of the top large capacitor) and the hand soldered components (main board) in the lower right hand corner have not yet been added to the board. Ignore the yellow wire in the picture. I added this to connect two different stages when I was checking out the LFO and tracing some signals. A switch will eventually connect these sections in the completed unit.

SLOWLY making progress....

Jim

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Looking GOOD Jim 

[digi2t]

THAT.... looks AMMMMMAAAAAZING!!

[electricstorm]

Just checked with Futurelec, they haven't even picked the order yet (I ordered back in December!!!!). I've already received orders from Dr. Tweek, Tayda and a few others that were placed less than two weeks ago. Oh well, you know what they say about the slow boat from........

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Just checked with Futurelec, they haven't even picked the order yet (I ordered back in December!!!!). I've already received orders from Dr. Tweek, Tayda and a few others that were placed less than two weeks ago. Oh well, you know what they say about the slow boat from........

Jim,

You might just want to get in touch with Futurlec again and see whether or not THEY are waiting for your parts...

It has been my experience that they are not very forthright on their "IN STOCK" policies. They often list items as in stock on the site and then when you place an order, they simply play the waiting game along with you until the parts arrive from THEIR supplier 

[LaceSensor]

Hi

Here are my updates to the fairly long list of debugging points.
I didnt get time to take the PCB out, requires desoldering and lots of screws. I will do that as soon as I get time. For what its worth here are most of the other answers.

Supply voltage was 11.2v. That shouldnt really matter - you can assume supply and 1/2 supply voltages and go from there. For some reason none of my PSUs wanted to put out 9v on my bench. My decent regulated one is all wired into my pedalboard and I have rehearsals tonight and show on the weekend so I cant take it off right now.


Here is the list:

Daughter board:

1) Color of the LED. I know it is water clear, but is is a high
brightness green LED?

-   Don't know how to answer that exactly. Its  Clear Green and says HB on the PCB. So yeah, it's a high bright in my opinion.

2) What are the voltages at all pins for both IC's?

-   1      0v      7.57v
-   2       2.75v      2.79v
-   3      3.56v      0v
-   4      6.97v      3.04v
-   5      7.48v      3.52v
-   6      2.99v      3.63v
-   7      4.29v      3.66v
-   8      4.28v      7.04v


3) What is the voltage on pin 2 of the 22k trim pot (center pin/lug)?
-   3.77v

4) What is the voltage on the banded side of the vertical diode (far
left hand side of the daughter board)?
-   0v
- to the "right" of the horizontal diode its reading ~7.5v

5) What resistance is the light and dark resistance of the LDR?
-   not desoldering unless absoutely essential, sorry.


Main board:

1) What is the voltage at pin 2 (center pin) of the 22k trimmer?
-   2.79v

2) What are the voltages of each pin of IC1?
-   1   9.20v
-   2   5.07
-   3   4.7-6.0 approx fluctuating
-   4   10.5
-   5   5.25
-   6   5.06
-   7   4.6 – 6v fluctuating
-   8   3.5 – 7.5v fluctuating
-   9   5.27v
-   10     5.22v
-   11    0v
-   12    4.93v
-   13    5.18v
-   14     5.19v

3) What are the Emiter, Base, and Colector voltages of each transistor?
-   Gonna take too long to measure right now...

4) What is the value of D2 (1N4148 or something else. May be a zener)?
- requires board removal, see above

5) What are the values of the two diodes in front of Q9 (the rats nest)?
- requires board removal, see above

6) What is the value of the cap in front of Q9 (rats nest)?
- requires board removal, see above

7) What resistance is the light and dark  LDR's (LDR1, :LDR2, LDR3)?
- requires desoldering, see above

Cool Do the LDR LED's (LED1, LED2, LED5) go completely out when oscillating?

-   Depends on the position of the manual control for LED1. For the other two, controlling the tremolo, this is a fixed depth, so they stay the same medium bright regarless, and just flash with the rate control. Only oscillating when Space (Red) is engaged.

9) How bright do these LED's get (do they get bright or just dimly lit)?
-   See above.

10) Does the LED for LDR3 (far right edge of the board. I believe it
is used for the Space switch, not sure) oscillate or does it just come
on when used?

Is it bright or dimly lit?

-   Only on when Time (Green) is engaged. Medium brightness.

11) Is there a second BC397B and if so, what is the location of it
(Q14 is the first)?
- requires board removal, see above

12) If there is no second BC307B, can you confirm the following:

BC549 - Q1, Q2, Q4, Q6, Q8, Q9, Q11, Q12, Q13, Q16, Q17

BC307B - Q14 (obviously)

J113 - Q3, Q5, Q7, Q10,Q15

- requires board removal, see above

13) If you have it, What is the light and dark resistance of the light
jack (I believe it to be 100K dark, but not sure)?

14) You may need to download the latest wiring diagram from
electristorm's dropbox for the following:

Confirm wiring connections, if incorrect, where does the incorrect
wire connet to?
- requires board removal, see above

If the wiring diagram is correct and if I have a connection going to a
designator that is incorrect (for instance, I have the Time Out jack
connecting to the OEP1200 transformer. The designation I gave them was
"C" and "F") would you provide the correct designation?

- requires board removal, see above

15) On the outside of the flanger, are the Red, Green and Yellow LED's
bright or dim when on?

-   With the settings as you want them, Loop (yellow) is always on but not bright when engaged. Time (Green) is on and dim when engaged, Space (Red) is on and Dim when engaged. Switching the LFO to square wave for the Space increases the brightness a tad.  Increasing manual and or depth increases the brightness of Time (Green).
-   LED 1 on the daughter board is the Time LED (flange / delay LFO control). IT behaves in the opposite to the Time footswitch LED when Manual is adjusted.

When you take the voltage readings for the transistors, IC and any
other voltage, set the controls to the following:

Manual, Depth, Rate, I/P Gain - Fully CCW (counter-clock-wise)
Reaction, Action - 12 o'clock
LFO selector - setting closest to the controls ( first selection from the top)
Mono/Stereo - Mono mode
All footswitches - OFF (or what you consider to be off)
No input signal.
Nothing plugged into any of the jacks except the power jack.

Thanks A LOT Ian! This is greatly appreciated!!!


You're welcome. Thanks for your patience.