Echo Base - a new PT2399 delay

Started by slacker, August 27, 2007, 04:33:19 PM

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Filament

Quote from: Gila_Crisis on August 11, 2008, 05:01:56 PM
i built it and i'm really pleased, it sounds really really good!!!
btw what value do you suggest for R17? on mine i used the standard 20k resistor, but it's too low, already before 3/4 of the feedback pot it start selfoscillating!!! :icon_eek:

Gila, Slacker suggests trying a 100K resistor there.  I found that mine would oscillate very quickly with the 20K resistor so I changed it and now it won't start oscillating till about 4 O'Clock.  Further on from that gets pretty crazy which is great.  Hope that helps.
This is not my large automobile

Filament

Quote from: ppatchmods on August 12, 2008, 12:26:19 PM
yes, the anonymousfaceless one.  It appears they all face the same way, but I think I read that someone fried an ic assuming the same thing. Thanks Slacker!

If you look closely at the compact layout you'll see that anonymousfacelesscoward made pin 1 of each IC square to make orientation easier.  That layout is so teeny that it's easy to miss them so look closely  ;)

Just make sure that pin 1 of your IC is in that pad and you should be dancin'.  Hope that helps.
This is not my large automobile

ppatchmods

Thanks Filament!  This should do it for the questions, but I was wondering if someone had the wiring diagram for the pots, switches, etc for the anonymousfaceless layout?  It is a little different from the original and I am new to reading the layouts. Thanks
When your life is over, will any of this STUFF really matter?

Gila_Crisis

Quote from: Filament on August 12, 2008, 02:34:25 PM
Quote from: Gila_Crisis on August 11, 2008, 05:01:56 PM
i built it and i'm really pleased, it sounds really really good!!!
btw what value do you suggest for R17? on mine i used the standard 20k resistor, but it's too low, already before 3/4 of the feedback pot it start selfoscillating!!! :icon_eek:

Gila, Slacker suggests trying a 100K resistor there.  I found that mine would oscillate very quickly with the 20K resistor so I changed it and now it won't start oscillating till about 4 O'Clock.  Further on from that gets pretty crazy which is great.  Hope that helps.

thank you! it's what i allready did and now it works fine! maybe i'll give a try to a more higher value but with 100k it really better than before!
btw awesome sounding delay!!!!
i'm glad i built it!

theehman

Is there anyplace I could purchase a couple of boards for the Echo Base?
Ron Neely II
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs

ppatchmods

theehman, john lyons printed me up one real nice like!
When your life is over, will any of this STUFF really matter?

Valoosj

Tonight at rehearsal I discovered a flaw in the extra time mod. You have to put the switch so that the extra time works. If not the delay does not function at all. After you connected the power you can set the switch any way you want, but when you plug in the power it has to be set for long delay.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

slacker

That's weird, the long/short switch just changes the delay time on the extra board, I can't see how it could stop the pedal working. You sure it's wired correctly, it looks like it is on your layout but it might be worth checking it.

Valoosj

Everything works as it should. Just not when the switch is on short delay when you connect the power. I've done enough exprimenting tonight to be sure.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

slacker

Try turning it on with the switch in the short position and then measure the voltages on the 5 volt regulator, I'm wondering if it's possible that the second board draws slightly to much power in the short position and that stops the regulator working properly when you turn it on. It shouldn't do if you used a 7805 and even if you used a lower power 78L05 I think it should have enough power, but I can't think what else it could be.

Gila_Crisis

yesterday i was playing with it. on clean it's super quiet, but on crunch and lead sounds when it's on and i don't play i can haer a really low tick-tick coming from the lfo, which disappers when i turn the speed-knob all the way up.
there is a way to solve this little problem?

ppatchmods

Having trouble finding a 1uf non-polarized cap. Is there anything I can replace it with? Maybe a different value or can I use a polarized cap? thanks
When your life is over, will any of this STUFF really matter?

sean k

I used a polyester cap for mine. Little bit bigger than a 100 nano greencap and supposedly quite stable. But its only built and untested yet. I'm just doing a new pot on my test amp. But even two 470 nano green caps in parallel will do the trick... but they're quite big.
Monkey see, monkey do.
Http://artyone.bolgtown.co.nz/

Gila_Crisis

Quote from: ppatchmods on August 13, 2008, 04:24:54 PM
Having trouble finding a 1uf non-polarized cap. Is there anything I can replace it with? Maybe a different value or can I use a polarized cap? thanks

instead you can use two 470nF in parallel or a 680nF in parallel with a 330nF

slacker

I just used 2 470n ceramic caps in the original.

Gila_Crisis

i almost resolved my tick problem with the lfo. i putted a 4558 instead of the TL072 for the lfo and it' seam to be quiter, btw the click is only hearable with the guitar volume fully closed.
well tomorrow i'll try to shorten a bit the wires of the depth and speed pots.

niopren

Quote from: Gila_Crisis on August 13, 2008, 10:25:19 AM
yesterday i was playing with it. on clean it's super quiet, but on crunch and lead sounds when it's on and i don't play i can haer a really low tick-tick coming from the lfo, which disappers when i turn the speed-knob all the way up.
there is a way to solve this little problem?

for the "thik" put a 100 ohms resistor in series whit the 9 volts +

sean k

Hey Slacker, off topic, but will those 4066's switch a pulsed DC on the in outs, Y and Z, controlled, EN, by a timed pulse from a 555 without the two timings interacting? So do you know if the in and outs of the 4066 are completely uninteractive with the control?

I wanna switch a kids music toy with pulsed DC and control it with a 555 driving a 4017 decade counter so I can sequence up the toy.
Monkey see, monkey do.
Http://artyone.bolgtown.co.nz/

composition4

Hi,

Just built this today using the PCB layout by anonymousfacelesscoward- many thanks to Ian (slacker) for designing this, thanks to anonymousfacelesscoward for the layout. I'm very impressed with it.

I couldn't get my hands on a BC560, so I used a 2n3906 and can report it works fine.

At first I used a LM358 instead of a TL072 for the LFO, just for lower power draw and decreased chance of ticking - but the LFO didn't work, so I swapped in a TL072 and it worked no problems. No ticking anyway!

Thanks again, nice to finally have a DIY delay that I'm happy with

Jonathan

Gila_Crisis

#239
in mine i add a strange problem. the padel started to do a strange noise at high delay times. something like a blub-blub-blub.
i went mad about this, but i solved the problem by changing the caps across pins 9-10 and 11-12 of the PT2399. instead of 100nF i found out that using higher values make the pedal quiter and killed the noise.
the best was using a bigger value on pin 11-12 (680nF) than on 9-10 (220nF).
anther way to solve this was using a bigger value for the cap across pins 13-14 (10nF was the best) but then the repets become really dark sounding (so i went back to 1nF). if you want here just use max. a 3.9nF cap.

this mod lower a bit the feedback range but you can always change the resistor on lug 2 of the feedback pot (on mine i add a 100k instead of the 20k).