Echo Base - a new PT2399 delay

Started by slacker, August 27, 2007, 04:33:19 PM

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jplebre

Hello

Yeah I couldn't really tell if the pedal was on bypass or not because some switches had voltage, some hadn't.
Is it a fix 2.5v? Pin 5 of the PT is also 0v when you should read 3v

oppps silly me slacker posted the same table for voltages I had copied to my hard drive.

jan007magic

Quote from: jplebre on October 15, 2011, 05:42:48 PM
Hey Slacker! Thank you for your reply!

I was referring to these 2:



Hmm.... so what's the difference between direct and boss? I mean both i/p and o/p get cut, and the signal still goes through the i/p buffer. Isn't there a mistake in that wiring?

For the LED question, that would be the second image. So, again, would be best to use the stomp switch for the LED on the power supply for this section, pin5 to this section or from this section to the LED?

is the tempo light indicator gonna blink? i want to put that in my EB to have a monitor..:))

jplebre

As far as I know, that came from here
I wanted to find another post that I found about how it actually works. Aparently there was a flash every time this counted all the way up and reseted.

I've just been wondering whats the best way to wire this LED to the bypass :)
Bump anyone?

slacker

To make the LED go off in bypass you can either have the switch break the connection somewhere between +5 and the transistor, it doesn't matter where. Or you could make the switch short out the LED.
I think you could also make the switch connect the point where R3 and R4 join to ground, that should turn the LED off. This is probably the easiest way to do it, especially if you're using the other schematic as well, because you can connect the pole of the switch to ground, connect one throw to that point and the other to the negative side of the LFO LED. This will then turn both LEDs on and off at once.

jplebre

Quoteswitch connect the point where R3 and R4 join to ground, that should turn the LED off. This is probably the easiest way to do it, especially if you're using the other schematic as well, because you can connect the pole of the switch to ground, connect one throw to that point and the other to the negative side of the LFO LED. This will then turn both LEDs on and off at once.

I like that! 2 birds, one stone! It would basically make the transistor always be off (no voltage at gate, no current drawn by the source). Did I get it right?

slacker


Fuhgawz

Hi guys! I'm trying to decide wether or not to include the waveshape pot in my build. Is it useful? Or is it only fun as a noisemaker and would a switch be better? Or is it not useful at all? Any reply from someone who has experience with this mod would be appreciated.

Barcode80

Quote from: Fuhgawz on October 22, 2011, 09:03:59 AM
Hi guys! I'm trying to decide wether or not to include the waveshape pot in my build. Is it useful? Or is it only fun as a noisemaker and would a switch be better? Or is it not useful at all? Any reply from someone who has experience with this mod would be appreciated.
I don't know of a wave shape pot... i think you have this mixed up with the tap tremolo board taylor sells...


jan007magic

hey guys!! mind if i request to anyone of you to please rescale this and put it in pdf format? :)) thanks!! ^_^




http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/anonymousfacelesscoward/23693577.html

thanks guys!!!

slacker

#1190
Fuhgawz, there's a brief demo of the wave shape here http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=60662.msg810660#msg810660 about 1:30. I'd try it before you drill your box, it's easy enough to temporarily solder the pot in, then if you don't like it leave it out.

jan007magic

damn this thread goes a long way.. :)))

jan007magic

i think the wave mode just makes this pedal harder to balance.. for me I'd leave it out.. ^^

jplebre

Yeap, no waveshape on my echobase (or there will be, as I'm still building it).

senko

Has anyone used a different LFO waveform for the modulation? 

I've experimented with a buffered ICL8038 (a little variation on the datasheet version) and found it to produce some dramatic effects, especially at lower frequencies.  The only drawbacks seem to be that the ICL8038 requires a minimum of +10V, which can be tamed with a 12V regulator. 

Kudos to slacker for his tireless responses. 

I am now going to use some smileys because this is my first post:
:icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
Check out my webpage http://www.diyaudiocircuits.com and send me suggestions about what you want to see!  I do all sorts of things with audio equipment, from guitar pedals to circuitbending to analog synthesizers.

Fuhgawz

#1195
Quote from: jplebre on October 22, 2011, 05:02:51 PM
I think he's referring to this:wave shape http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=60662.msg518244#msg518244
That's the one! It's also in Taylor's documentation, here, on the last page. I have one of his PCB's.

Quote from: slacker on October 23, 2011, 06:01:38 AM
Fuhgawz, there's a brief demo of the wave shape here http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=60662.msg810660#msg810660 about 1:30. I'd try it before you drill your box, it's easy enough to temporarily solder the pot in, then if you don't like it leave it out.
Thanks man! I can't believe I missed that demo, it's just a page earlier. D'oh! Those are some pretty crazy sounds though, I have to think about how useful those will be for me. I like to know before drilling the enclosure how many knobs I'm going to need, so the final assembly is easier. Just solder and hook up.

In that light I have another question: is it useful to add a flip switch for modulation on/off or is it enough to just turn the depth knob all the way down to turn off the modulation? In my view, less flip switches is better!

LaceSensor

I think the wave shape is a useful mod, and its on that pink one I made, and also my own one.
However, for me its pretty set and forget. Id probably do it as an internal trimpot if I made another.
I like having the option to switch the LFO off, but really the modulation is so nice I always like it on.


slacker

Quote from: senko on October 23, 2011, 07:54:15 AM
Has anyone used a different LFO waveform for the modulation? 

Random and stepped waves are quite interesting, I haven't played around with anything else.


Quote from: Fuhgawz on October 23, 2011, 08:58:25 AM
: is it useful to add a flip switch for modulation on/off or is it enough to just turn the depth knob all the way down to turn off the modulation? In my view, less flip switches is better!

Turning the modulation knob all the way down works fine. Using a toggle switch just lets you preset the depth, so if you find a nice setting you can leave the pot set there. I really added the modulation on/off to mine so I could turn the modulation on and off using a second stomp switch.

The Kebash

I am trying to build this as my first pedal build and there are a couple of things I am missing or don't understand.  This biggest being when ordering parts (particularly resistors & caps) do I have to order a specific volt range?  I am going off the PDF for this build and have done a lot of reading but just cant put it together.  Thanks guys please be kind.

slacker

Hi
For resistors you want ones that rated 1/4 Watt you can use higher rated ones but they are normally bigger so won't fit the pcb or vero as easily. The other specs you'll see for resistors like the tolerance or material type aren't important.
For caps you want ones rated for at least 9 volts, anything higher than 9 volts is fine the actual value doesn't matter. After that look at the physical size of the caps to make sure they are not too big.
Hope that helps :)