Etch An Enclosure Using Transparency Paper As Transfer (Like w/PCBs)?

[soggybag]

I have etched a few boxes with PNP. Not problems yet. I use the same Iron setting I use with PCBs. The boxes get plenty hot watch out!

Boxes may dissipate more heat but the iron may have a sensor that keeps it at temperature.

In the link above what are they using for etchent, it looks clear?

[Mark Hammer]

b) are the edges/corners as nicely finished to be level or lower than the main surface as they appear to be from that photo

Yes.
The top was thoroughly sanded FLAT as seen in the Tutorial.

Bingo!

We tend to forget that copper-clad board comes to us perfectly flat, and prepping it for transfer basically means buffing it to a shine.  Hammond and similar boxes do NOT come to us ruler flat on all surfaces, and I suspect that can impede how effectively patterns are ironed on, particularly by novices.

[railhead]

Well, in my case, it WAS totally flat -- trust me, I checked and sanded it to be that way.

I think my deal was that I got it too smooth. I'll see what happens tonight with a less smooth surface and transparency film.

[BubbaKahuna]

I have a box full of enclosures here and not one of them is flat on top. All of them are depressed around the raised edges - a result of cooling the cast part. I always turn my boxes upside down onto a piece of 400 sandpaper double taped to my bench and sand them flat before I do anything else with them. My old iron transfers toner just fine after that. Also, aluminum is not friendly to any coating of any type if it's mirror smooth. You need something for paint, toner or clear to hang onto.

[markm]

b) are the edges/corners as nicely finished to be level or lower than the main surface as they appear to be from that photo

Yes.
The top was thoroughly sanded FLAT as seen in the Tutorial.

Bingo!

We tend to forget that copper-clad board comes to us perfectly flat, and prepping it for transfer basically means buffing it to a shine.  Hammond and similar boxes do NOT come to us ruler flat on all surfaces, and I suspect that can impede how effectively patterns are ironed on, particularly by novices.

Agreed.....100%!!
Most overlook the importance of the prep and end up with less than satisfactory results.
There's no real Hocus-Pocus, just alot of time and preperation. 

[Arfman]

I haven't had a second go with this yet, but my initial thought  was that the surface was too smooth for the transparency film. I got some PnP, but man, it'd be SO much easier (and cheaper) to use transparencies.

As far as prep goes, I ended with sanding the surface with 2000 grit, so it was highly polished and mirror-like. Was that too fine? I can see how the toner would need something to "grip" onto, and maybe I sanded things too smooth?

2000 is much too smooth.
Just out of curiousity, has anyone in this thread besides me read this?

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/

With some of the statements made in this thread......I have my doubts. 

Oh yeah, and this here is a DD enclosure......no heat issues here!
I don't really think size is an issue.
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album23/FX_ad3208.jpg.html

Damn you...just when I thought I had a plan to get the gazillion projects I have going now I've got something else to put on my plate...

Seriously though, thanks for sharing. This is cool. I posted the link to an amp building forum I frequent as I see no reason it would not work for an amp name plate...maybe even a faceplate though the dimensions may make it a challenge...