Skyripper wiring questions

[bside2234]

I am attempting to do the Skyripper for my 2nd build.
I am using the Basicaudio layout with the Buffer bypass, Rangemaster bypass, and Fuzz bypass.
I understand that this pedal is positive ground.

I have etched the board (my first) and it came out really well. I am trying to figure out all of the wiring for the pots and switches so I can make a parts order.

I don't know if it is cool to post the pics I have of the layout. If it is ok I could post a pic of the way I think it is wired up.

Here is the first set of many questions I am sure to have.

Does S1 on the Rangemaster 3pdt switch just go to the S1 solder pad on the PCB?

The S3 switch is raising some questions. There is "S3 lug 2" on the PCB and the RM 3pdt. I assume they go to lug 2 on an spdt switch? There is also S3 on the Buffer 3pdt switch and a solder pad marked S3 on the PCB. I am guessing they go on lug 1 and 3 of this S3 switch? If I am correct about this, what does this switch do?

Last question (for now). Are all the pots linear? Would the volume pot be Log?

[John Lyons]

The wiring is kind of confusing, lots of it here.

S1 does go to the S1 pad on the board.
Sw 3 lug 2 just goes to the board as well. The labeling is too confusing I admit!
S3 goes on the buffer sw goes to the S3 pad on the board. 

The names make more sense if you go by the names on the schematic.
The Level pot is log and all the other pots are linear.

The buffer isn't really something that needs to be foot switchable. I'd just use a toggle for that (in hind sight).

John

[bside2234]

So I've got:
S3 on the Buffer Switch to S3 solder pad on the PCB.
S1 on the RangeMaster Switch to S1 solder pad on the PCB.
S3 Lug 2 on Rangemaster Switch goes to S3 Lug 2 solder pad on the PCB.

Is that right?

By the way. Thanks for the PCB material John. 

[John Lyons]

Yes, That's correct.
Keep us posted on how it goes.

John

[bside2234]

Thanks.

I will and I am sure I will have more questions.

Now to do a parts order.

I etched 2 boards thinking I might do one positive ground and one negative ground to see the difference. Do you think it is worth doing the negative ground version? Too noisy?

[John Lyons]

I wouldn't bother with the neg ground version but you could build a silicon version or even a stripped down version or the '07 version which has just a range bypass and circuit bypass Don't worry about it now, this will keep you busy for a while.

John

[bside2234]

Thanks, I won't bother with the negative ground version.
I wasn't going to do both of them right now. I was just going to order parts for both now.
My plan is to build this one and get it going then see what I would like to change/tweak (possibly a stripped down version) and apply that to the second one.

[bside2234]

Do you have any recommendations on what transistors to use? The schem. says two 2n3906 (which I have tons of), a 2sb33 and a 2sb54. Is there something that I don't have to hunt for that would be good?

[John Lyons]

The germanium set that smallbear sells for a fuzz face will work.
It's a rangemaster and fuzz face when it comes down to it so the parts that work in those will work well.
I used the "three knob tone bender" set from small bear in mine. (although I only used two in the SR)

John

[bside2234]

Alright! 90% of the board is populated! I am doing a layout in Illustrator to try to make sense of all of the wiring using different colors.

Here is where I am stuck.

Where does the "In" solder pad connect to?
Does the 9V- just go to the Battery negative?
Where is the best place to run the "Ground" lugs on the Buffer, RM, and Fuzz switches? PCB?

[John Lyons]

On the layout diagram it shows how to wire the battery and "bias" control.
Wire the battery to the Bias pot and then to the board. The bias varies the battery voltage.

Each ground connects back to the the main ground point. Either the input jack or the wire all the grounds together and then one wire from the bunch to the input jack sleeve.

The input pad is the input of the circuit. It' goes to the switch, just like the green wire on the GGG layouts.

John

[bside2234]

So your saying there is a 4th 3pdt switch (assuming I want an led) to turn the whole pedal on/off?

[John Lyons]

No, there are 3 footswitches, I recommend using only two though, and using a toggle for the buffer on/off.
Ignore the "IN" pad. Just wire S3 to the S3 pad on the board. The in pad was from another version of the buffer before it was true bypassable.

Wire the battery +/red to the +9v tab on the bias pot. Then the other tab to the ring of the stereo input jack. This turns on and off the pedal when you take out the plug at the input.
Just remember that the black battery wire is your positive and the red wire is negative/ground.

John

[bside2234]

Thanks so much. I am doing a toggle for the Buffer.
I will wire it all together in the next few days and report back on how it went.

[bside2234]

So I read somewhere that the "Ripper" pot should be a pot that clicks off when turned counter clockwise.
What kind of pot is that? Where do I get one? Part #?

[John Lyons]

What you need is a 100K pot with a SPST switch in it.
This is mentioned on the PDF file I made.
Any electronics supplier will have them.
When the knob is turned clockwise the switch clicks and the pot controls the "rip" amount.

John

[bside2234]

Thanks John. I wasn't sure if it was something special or not. Joe actually gave me a part # at Mouser so I think I am set.
Joe just PM'd me as to what the Loop does. Did you do it? It sounds wild. I think if I can get this one up and going, I may make the other one with the loop and without the buffer.

Thanks again for your help. I am sure I will be back with more questions!

-Bill

[John Lyons]

Too cool to make an appearance Joe! (just kidding, hope your are doing well)

Bill
I actually have not made the loop functional in my build yet.
The buffer adds a bit of spark to the sound but it's not crucial.

John

[bside2234]

I may make the 2nd one with the buffer too. I am going to see what I like when the 1st one is done.

The rest of my pots came today. If you can believe it, I think I "accidentally" order the right "Rip" pot (I think). It's a 16mm pot with 2 extra lugs below and switches off when turned counter clockwise! 

I was holding off on ordering it until I knew exactly what I needed. I was trying to order a pot for a phaser I am trying to get working and I must have wrote the wrong part# down. WoooHoo.

Joe PM'd me a lot of cool links to Youtube and such that has some wild stuff. You should check it out if you haven't already.

[John Lyons]

I can only get dial up service here. You tube is not an option I can imagine though...