Bout 8lbs of old looking can Trannies, need some help classifying.

Started by Zben3129, December 10, 2007, 10:25:28 PM

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Zben3129

Hi guys, I recently inherited a bucket (yes bucket) Of old looking (but pristine) condition trannies, but I don't know If any are nos or germanium or anything good. I have gone through about 50 %, and most have been...

2n1132
2n2328
2n2160
2n1987
2n3945
2n3011
2n3009
2n2569
2n708 (Some in original 1-per-package TI Paper case/sleeve thing)
2n718

Im sure I'll run across some more types the more i sift, but heres a start. Any of these germanium or NOS (worth something) or better than average components? Also, forgot to mention, all are can style, every last one

drewl

You have a multimeter?
If so, a germanium will show around .3v across the junction and silicon will read around .6v
If any are germanium I'll take some off your hands :icon_biggrin:

Zben3129

I am assuming you are referring to the bc junction?

If so, which way would you position the leads for measuring dc?
Thanks

Zben3129

Sorry for my sheer stupidity,

But...


Could you give me the exact setup for this? I am somehow clueless on how to get these readings

Thanks

mdh

You're probably better off googling the part numbers as you come across them.  You're almost guaranteed to come up with a datasheet, particularly if you add "pdf" to your search terms.  FWIW, I looked up a few of the part numbers you gave, and came up with a unijunction transistor, an SCR and some silicon NPN transistors.

I think the multimeter test that drewl suggested is to use the diode checker, which measures the voltage drop across a PN junction.  However, since it's clear from my minimal searching that your stash is more heterogeneous than a bunch of BJTs *and* you don't know the pinouts, better to just look up the datasheets.

Zben3129

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/datasheetpreview/DataBooks/Book517-1682.jpg

judging  from that, What I have is a GE SCR. Germanium...good! SCR... ??? ??? ??? (Thinking bad!)

That was only the second sheet i checked hopefully they get better

Zben3129

Also, Still looking for that method of the dmm testing, as about 50% are unmarked and unaccounted for...no product number no datasheet

mdh

Quotejudging  from that, What I have is a GE SCR. Germanium...good! SCR... Huh Huh Huh (Thinking bad!)

Well, not a germanium *silicon*-controlled rectifier (although possibly a General Electric SCR).  It's not going to be particularly useful for effects, but maybe you want to make a lamp dimmer or something.  Think of this as an opportunity to learn about some corners of electronics that we don't get into very much around here.  Do some reading about these devices on Wikipedia.  Or maybe you inherited some old electronics magazines or books along with your bucket of semiconductors?  Old mags can be a good place to find uses for unusual items like UJTs as well.  Come to think of it, I have a circuit that I've been wanting to build for a long time that calls for a UJT, but they're hard to get ahold of.  Maybe I'll take a couple off your hands.

Quote from: Zben3129 on December 10, 2007, 11:13:51 PM
Also, Still looking for that method of the dmm testing, as about 50% are unmarked and unaccounted for...no product number no datasheet

As I mentioned, diode checker.  Generally there's a schematic symbol for a diode somewhere on the dial. That's the diode checker mode.  I think R.G. has some stuff on GEO about identifying unknown transistors with a multimeter, including how to figure out pinout.  However, my point is that you very likely have a mix of things that might give you difficult-to-interpret results in some cases.  So you're likely to be left with some mystery parts.

Another thing to try when you do have a part number and you don't come up with a datasheet is to try cross-reference engines, such as (shudder) NTE.  They'll generally give you at least a vague idea of what you're looking at if they come up with a cross-reference at all.

Papa_lazerous

as said before to tell if they are Ge or Si check the voltage drop.  you only have 3 pins on a transistor it wouldnt make much trial and error to figure out which 2 the diode drop is across.... you cant hurt anything trying.

So you know its the Base - Emitter junction, but not knowing pinouts to them you will have to use the trial and error method. you just need to set your meter on continuity check or diode check, and your away.  

I suggest you sort into si/ge, you can also split into pnp,npn too as you will be able to tell with the multimeter on diode check which way the junction is. then you can start checking for gain and leakage.  you will find out about that over at Geofex.com worth a thorough read over there if you havent already.

Dont worry too much ifyo dont know part numbers just label by Ge/Si or pnp/npn and Hfe, for the part numbers you have already use google to do a datasheet search.  I sometimes search this forum for part numbers of transistors I get as you get an idea what projects people have used them for thus telling you if they will be much use.

EDIT: I posted at same time as above........so some repeated my bad ;)

Zben3129

Thanks guys, I now know why I was confused with the DMM part. My DMM has a diode part and a continuity part! The diode symbol is right next to the ohms symbol, in the same section of the dmm. The lowest range is 200, next is 2k. The other section is the continuity check, and it has a little picture of sound waves. Hmm....

morcey2

For the ones that you have part numbers for, you can use a tool like NTE's cross reference:

http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte/NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/$$Search?OpenForm

The results aren't always exact matches in terms of detailed specs, but it will at least tell you the important stuff like NPN v. PNP, Ge v. Si, etc. 

At least one that you listed there is a Silicon Controlled Rectifier.  Not sure what that means.  Maybe you need to keep feeding it little pieces of silicon to get it to do what you want.  ;) 

Matt.

Zben3129

Hmm cant add to last post?

Anyways, found a 2n2786, and found this datasheet   http://www.datasheets.org.uk/specsheet/2N2786A.html


Have I struck a winer?

Thanks

BubbaKahuna

The metal tab or dot marked next to one of the leads on transistors will be the collector if that helps in testing them.

I have an early 1960s Sencore tube-transistor tester (a near mint TC-28 Hybrider) that makes testing transistors a breeze.
Much easier than a DMM which is what I used to test them with.
I only have to pop the transistor in the socket and start each of a bank of pushing buttons.
If no tone is generated, I switch the type (PNP/NPN) and continue.
When I get a tone, I've found my type & I can then test for gain & leakage.

Of course the tester cost me $75, but that included not only the tester and it's tube setup book but the service manual for the tester itself with detailed calibration instructions.
By testing my tubes I've been able to sort my entire tube collection and match everything I have in pairs as well as find the ones that should only be used as spares or just passed off to someone else who only needs one for a lone spare in an amp where matched tubes isn't a concern.
That alone was worth the $75 to me.

If you want, send me a handful with the other stuff I'm getting from you.
I'll test them and send them back with results of gain & leakage tests.

Cheers,
- JJ

My Momma always said, "Stultus est sicut stultus facit".
She was funny like that.

ambulancevoice

Quote from: BubbaKahuna on December 11, 2007, 12:20:16 AM
The metal tab or dot marked next to one of the leads on transistors will be the collector if that helps in testing them.


although alot of the time the metal tab is actually the emitter
the red dot is usually the collector
Open Your Mouth, Heres Your Money

dxm1

Quote from: Zben3129 on December 10, 2007, 11:13:51 PM
Also, Still looking for that method of the dmm testing, as about 50% are unmarked and unaccounted for...no product number no datasheet

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_4/3.html

rikkards

Something else to remember is that the Base to Emitter voltage drop should be higher than the Base to Collector. This helped me when I bought some 2n3565 from SmallBear as all of the datasheets I found were for the typical to-92 form and these were to-106. Essentially to figure the base on a NPN wherever you have the red lead and get voltages drops on both of the other leads makes that the base (for PNP it is the black lead). Then compare the two voltages. Whichever is higher is the Emitter. I think you can figure out the rest :)

Quote from: Papa_lazerous on December 10, 2007, 11:23:31 PM
as said before to tell if they are Ge or Si check the voltage drop.  you only have 3 pins on a transistor it wouldnt make much trial and error to figure out which 2 the diode drop is across.... you cant hurt anything trying.

So you know its the Base - Emitter junction, but not knowing pinouts to them you will have to use the trial and error method. you just need to set your meter on continuity check or diode check, and your away. 

I suggest you sort into si/ge, you can also split into pnp,npn too as you will be able to tell with the multimeter on diode check which way the junction is. then you can start checking for gain and leakage.  you will find out about that over at Geofex.com worth a thorough read over there if you havent already.

Dont worry too much ifyo dont know part numbers just label by Ge/Si or pnp/npn and Hfe, for the part numbers you have already use google to do a datasheet search.  I sometimes search this forum for part numbers of transistors I get as you get an idea what projects people have used them for thus telling you if they will be much use.

EDIT: I posted at same time as above........so some repeated my bad ;)
Pedals built: Kay Fuzztone, Fuzz Face, Foxx Tone Machine, May Queen, Buffer/Booster, ROG Thor, BSIAB2, ROG Supreaux,  Electrictab JCM800 Emulator, ROG Eighteen
Present Project: '98 Jeep TJ

Zben3129

Thanks for all the help guys.

I have about 6 or 7 2n2786, would these be good for guitar effects?

Also, I will begin classifying the unmarked ones today. That should be a treat :)

Arn C.

2n1132 =  NTE 129
2n2328 =  NTE 5456
2n2160 =  NTE 6400A
2n1987 =  NTE 128
2n3945 =  NTE 128
2n3011 =  NTE 123A
2n3009 =  NTE 123A
2n2569 =  NTE 123AP
2n708 (Some in original 1-per-package TI Paper case/sleeve thing)  =  NTE 123A
2n718   =  NTE 123A
2n2786 =  NTE 160


www.nteinc.com

Hope this helps you!

I seem to remember using NTE 128, 123AP, for some effects
Peace!
Arn C.

Zben3129

Thanks! Helped alot!

Turns out those PNP's may be usefull for some fuzz effecs, here is the datasheet http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/N/T/E/1/NTE160.shtml

Any ideas?

Zben3129

Just uncovered a sylvania 2n384. I think I have heard of these in fuzzes before  :)