Tube boost + overdrive running off a 9 volt battery

Started by dano12, December 11, 2007, 07:51:24 PM

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Renegadrian

#2460
You used a battery...8.77V...please understand that a circuit like this works a lot better with a wall wart...and some regulation...take a wall wart!!! The circuit is hungry for current, the more the better...500mA is mandatory, if you have a 12V 1A as myself it's even better...
Done an' workin'=Too many to mention - Tube addict!

juansolo

Another BoobTube (valvecaster variant), this time with a stompable boost stage.






rutabaga bob

this i am liking very much!  you know, i've never considered the humble u-bolt as an alternative to the chrome handles or little 'tower' style of protectors seen on many of you guys' valvecasters.  thanks for the pics!
Life is just a series of obstacles preventing you from taking a nap...

"I can't resist a filter" - Kipper

nexekho

See, I have this little wastepaper basket kicking about (looks like this: http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/swalwellj/swalwellj1010/swalwellj101000006/8015262-a-silver-mesh-waste-paper-bin-with-blue-paper-spilling-from-it.jpg) it's about the size of a cup and very sturdy.  When I finally build this, I'm probably gonna mount the tube inside it using a pair of L brackets with a helltonne of LEDs.  Can't wait :D  A vacuum tube should be fine if it's being stored and used upside down right?
I made the transistor angry.

juansolo

Quote from: rutabaga bob on August 22, 2011, 12:44:59 PM
this i am liking very much!  you know, i've never considered the humble u-bolt as an alternative to the chrome handles or little 'tower' style of protectors seen on many of you guys' valvecasters.  thanks for the pics!

We're liking the U bolt a lot lately: http://juansolo.demon.co.uk/stompage/images/aod2-o.jpg (poor pic because it was dark and hand held).

ayayay!

Quote from: Renegadrian on August 20, 2011, 07:27:37 PM
You used a battery...8.77V...please understand that a circuit like this works a lot better with a wall wart...and some regulation...take a wall wart!!! The circuit is hungry for current, the more the better...500mA is mandatory, if you have a 12V 1A as myself it's even better...
.

Whoa back up please.  500mA????  I thought only about 150mA @ 9VDC would be ample. 
The people who work for a living are now outnumbered by those who vote for a living.

rutabaga bob

i haven't been in on the rest of your posts, but if this is regarding building a valvecaster with any of the 12__7 tubes, the heater current is 150ma alone on most if not all of them, wired series. (pin 4 and 5).  the 12bh7a uses 300 ma heater current.  save yourself a headache, and use a 500ma or 1 amp wall wart, then filter and regulate it.
Life is just a series of obstacles preventing you from taking a nap...

"I can't resist a filter" - Kipper

nexekho

I want to include some LEDs to illuminate the enclosure running off the same power supply.  From what I can tell, three standard LEDs in series with a 200R resistor should be optimum for the LEDs.  If I put that chain of components running straight from +9V to ground, will it just draw the extra current needed to illuminate the LEDs or will it cause problems with the rest of the circuit?

Thanks.
I made the transistor angry.

Gramatron@mac.com

Sorry to be a total dunce, I've started building my first valvecaster from the following schematic. I've noticed that Pin 4 of the valve is not connected to anything. Can some one please either draw in or explain to me where i connect pin 4 to and what modifications i need to make.

Kind Regards

Gram



nexekho

Not checked if it's the same schematic, but on this diagram I plan to build mine from, it's grounded.

I made the transistor angry.

Gramatron@mac.com

Thank you Mr Wild. Already figure it out. It sounds a chunk better running on 12V rather than 9. Maybe it's just me. Any way this is my humble first attempt at one.


iccaros

Quote from: Gramatron@mac.com on August 27, 2011, 03:17:11 PM
Sorry to be a total dunce, I've started building my first valvecaster from the following schematic. I've noticed that Pin 4 of the valve is not connected to anything. Can some one please either draw in or explain to me where i connect pin 4 to and what modifications i need to make.

Kind Regards

Gram




Pin 4 is coonected to ground in your drawing... with 5 positive.
you can flip these as they do not matter as long as one is negative and the other positive.

I think it sounds better @ 20 + volts, but you have to change the heater wiring.. (pin 4 and 5)

esdiezy28

Built my 2nd successful Valvecaster today. I use a 12V 700mA power supply from my keyboard, regulate the voltage with a 7812 (I prefer running the heaters at 12V :P), and a TC1044 to based on Rick's Murder One Low Voltage Tube Amp designhttp://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=71381.0.

I have 42.8V going to my plate resistors (the 220k and 100k) opening up some headroom. Changed my input cap to 33nf, and output cap to 222nf. Thought the output seemed a little thin, IMHO I also use a modified gain control, with a 0.68 50V electrolytic cap from lug 2 to ground on the variable ground stage. (For me I use pin 8, I remember reading somewhere that pins 6-8 are better for the first triode gain stage, most likely earlier in this massive thread!)

Howls when I max the gain and volume out, so going to tweak it abit more until Im completely satisfied, I will post my results.
Ruby Amp, Noisy Cricket, NPN Boost, modded Mockman 1.0, Bazz Fuss, J201 Fetzer Valve, Valvecaster, modded Valvecaster

Resistance is futile!

brett25

#2473
newbie here. some very beautiful an impressive work on this board! I really enjoy browsing through this thread.

I was going to try making this basic valve caster for my bass. Ive got a parts list and schematics, but have one question:

i am using this diagram:



So this seems pretty staightfoward so far. However, i also need the wiring diagram to hook everything into the stomp /bypass switch. Also, do i need to use a terminal strip (i have seen this in some boxes) this is not indicated in matsumin's schematic. Any help would be greatly appreciated and start me happily on my way to becoming a pedal addict!

brett


runmikeyrun

I've built a couple of valvecasters, but none of them play well with my active bass... if i put a simple JFET buffer in front do you think that would help?
Bassist for Foul Spirits
Head tinkerer at Torch Effects
Instagram: @torcheffects

Likes: old motorcycles, old music
Dislikes: old women

iccaros

Quote from: runmikeyrun on August 30, 2011, 03:18:25 PM
I've built a couple of valvecasters, but none of them play well with my active bass... if i put a simple JFET buffer in front do you think that would help?

Well an active bass has a buffer? right? What is it you do not like about the sound? 

brett25

Speaking of basses, does anyone have a suggestion as to what input/output capacitors would work well with a bass. I hear higher values are good.

Renegadrian

I used my first one with stock value caps and it sounded good...higher values will let some more bass freqs pass in, so I'd say a 100nF won't harm...or even higher, up to electros...
Done an' workin'=Too many to mention - Tube addict!

butterfly3

Greetings All
Real noob here, I have been reading this thread for 2 months and decided to have a go of it.  Built two valvecasters, one with standard componets
and one for clean boost.  I have made several SS amps and have made 12 LM3886 amps.  Tubes are more fun!!!.  My goal is to add a tube preamp
to a Lm3886 for a guitar amp. Don't fully understand matching input with output yet.  What I have done is to make a revised pcb from page 19,
use CNC to fab. boards. I also made a PCB layout from the schematics on pages 77,119 and 120 with two verisons, one with single supply and one with
12v and 24v supply. I don't know how to convert my cad files to pdf just yet, will share these files when I learn how. Many thanks to all that have
contributed to this creation, it is truly awesome!!!!!!!