Tube boost + overdrive running off a 9 volt battery

[frequencycentral]

Anyway I'm confused about the voltages when using the tone stack. PIN2 has about 4V without and about 9V with tone stack. Will try using 220K for R3 tomorrow.

Are you sure you have a DC blocking cap between the tonestack and pin 2 - that would be C1 in the schematic.

[Renegadrian]

@Renegadrian:

Why do you use electrolytics for C3 ?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=63479.msg568630#msg568630

See here at page 39 

[Smiler]

Are you sure you have a DC blocking cap between the tonestack and pin 2 - that would be C1 in the schematic.

Yes, 47nF...

[frequencycentral]

Are you sure you have a DC blocking cap between the tonestack and pin 2 - that would be C1 in the schematic.

Yes, 47nF...

Maybe you should have one either side of the tonestack.

[frequencycentral]

Hey Adriano - how's it hanging? Another Valvy question and we all come out of the woodwork.......

.......did you like the Red Star Drive?

[Renegadrian]

yeah man, you're right, I've been a bit busy those last days...
I love all of your tube layouts, the latest too, while you know I am a high gain fan...
Still I like some low gainers, like the pentaboost...

[Smiler]

Adding a 47nF DC blocking cap didn't work. Still 9V on PIN 1 and low output. I didn't try changing R3 and R2 yet but would it really increase volume and NOT gain?
Someone here said he build up a valvecaster with tone stack. Does anyone know a (passive) tonestack that doesn't suck volume? If not I will build up a regular Twincaster with tone control only. Have six holes in the enclosure, but there will be a way to close them with a label.

[frequencycentral]

Adding a 47nF DC blocking cap didn't work. Still 9V on PIN 1 and low output. I didn't try changing R3 and R2 yet but would it really increase volume and NOT gain?
Someone here said he build up a valvecaster with tone stack. Does anyone know a (passive) tonestack that doesn't suck volume? If not I will build up a regular Twincaster with tone control only. Have six holes in the enclosure, but there will be a way to close them with a label.

In a standard Valvecaster, increasing R2 will increase the gain, increasing R3 will increase the volume.

If you can't find a suitable tonestack (I don't know of one that doesn't suck gain), you could add the Vibracaster tremolo mod to your twincaster, that would add two more knobs, rate and depth.

[SirElwood]

Here is a tone control that has quite low insertion loss. Change capacitor values if nessesary.

[Smiler]

Hm, looks nice but I don't have any of this 6111 here

BUT I removed the tone stack, replaced it with standard tone+volume pots and FINALLY got a nice idea

I will add a second tone and volume control for the second tube! Have 3 free pins left on the 3PDT that enables the second stage. So either the first or the second tone+vol controls are enabled depending on the second tube stage being on or off 

Only have to buy pots & stuff.

[snap]

Here is a tone control that has quite low insertion loss. Change capacitor values if nessesary.

no resistor from grid to ground?

[frequencycentral]

Hm, looks nice but I don't have any of this 6111 here

Should work identically with 12AU7. 

[SirElwood]

no resistor from grid to ground?

That is an error on my drawing. But that tone part is correct.

And yes, it will work with 12AU7 as well.

[Smiler]

Hi

Finally got my Twincaster working! I added second tone and volume controls. Switch 1 is a 3PDT, so I labeled it SW1a and SW1b. There is also an LED connected to it (not shown here). So I have independent tone and volume depending on having tube B active or not.

If someone will also build it like this, here you are:



Based on mth5044's Schematic.

I will post pictures of the whole pedal when I've finished the enclosure-design

EDIT: corrected SW1a position

[Krinor]

Wow, it seems like I've missed the last 25 pages or so... I guess I've been busy building Valvecasters or something.
Here's a little video of my latest which is going out to a hopefully happy customer tomorrow. It's the 11th Valvecaster I've made.
People love these things. This is a stock version. Only thing I've done is to put a 3pdt switch in there. It's on (but bypassed) once you plug in the power and a guitar cable, so you don't need to wait for the tube to heat up once you push that button.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cMqYlhSQ8c

Okay, okay I'm sorry about the crappy playing and that blue LED. I didn't have any other colours. Honestly. 

[Smiler]

Okay, okay I'm sorry about the crappy playing and that blue LED. I didn't have any other colours. Honestly. 

I use two blue ones

[mth5044]

Blue LEDs and polished metal enclosures look sooooo gooooood. Better then anyother color IMO.

Looks good.

[Renegadrian]

Just a little update for the knowledge or the DIY community...

I just finished my 7th Valvy, using a 9AU7 (and a 7809).
Works good and there are no big differences. Easy to find that tube on evilBay for little $$$

[Smiler]

Just another experience: Especially if someone will build a Valvecaster with two tubes, USE A 7812 !
I had problems with lots of hum. With two tubes -> more hum. Just builded up a little circuit with 7812 regulator and two (not too small) elelectrolytics. Works great!! Just shhhhh and no HUMMMMMMMM ;-)

Even my so called 12V "regulated power supply" was a little crappy. Now I've found a cheap 18V 650mA power supply which works.

[Renegadrian]

Here's my 8th Valvy - I found this little box, actually designed to hold coins, and I went - Would it be crazy to build a Valvy inside one of those? Hell yeah - ok, I have to do it!!!

So here it is!!! I dedicated it to my gone too soon daddy, who left us ten years ago. It was a rainy november day, just like today...
I know he'd appreciate...