Tube boost + overdrive running off a 9 volt battery

[FuzzFanatic71]

I keep bumping this old thread that no one seems interested in anymore. Sorry if I'm being a pain in the arse. I'm just excited about it I guess.

I ended up doing a clipping mod to my valvy. I didn't really get any dramatic and noticeable tone changes with the input capacitors on the switch, so I decided to turn it into a clipping switch instead.
OA1160 Tungsram Germanium Diode pair is on one side of the switch, and 1s1588 Toshiba Silicon Diode pair is on the other. Middle position is no clipping. For anyone who wants their Valvecaster to be more of an overdrive or distortion, I highly recommend this mod. I'm really loving it. You will have to increase the volume when switching on the diodes but I think you guys probably already knew that. Anyway, just thought I'd share.

[Marcos - Munky]

Here's mine.

[pablo de gales]

Could you post a vero layout?

Does the tube light up btw?

The tube will have to light up or it wouldn't conduct....

You could do as the picture above and put most components on the tube socket, or even a nice little tag board layout.  Its really such a simple build it might be a good learning excersize to try and make your own layout and then post it here and ask someone to check it over.  Should only take a short time 

Heya - I'm just gonna make one of these but cant see your pic. I'm into the idea of building it off the back of the tube holder. Any chance you could repost the pic? Thanks

[lluis3.0]

Here is mine. I'm very interested about the diode clipping. Is there any way to increase the volume while switching the diode stage to prevent the volume waste?

[stallik]

Yes, I used a SPDT switch with the diodes on one pole and a resistor on the other pole

Choose the resistor value to even out the volume. Easy to wire on the switch itself

[lluis3.0]

Thank you very much!!!

So the left OUT goes to ground, IN comes from after C3 and the resistor goes to Vol pot.

[SuzukiScottie]

Here is mine. I'm very interested about the diode clipping. Is there any way to increase the volume while switching the diode stage to prevent the volume waste?

I like the look of this build, but the tube seems huge in comparison to the box. Or is it just the angle that the picture was captured from?

I've just thrown a valvecaster on my breadboard and it sounds fantastic in "standard" trim using a 1958 Sylvania tube. Lots of crunchy overdrive. Will be boxing it soon.

[lluis3.0]

It must be the angle, It's a 12AU7 in a 1590BB box.

Thank you

[lluis3.0]

I think i got it

With a 2PDT on-on R5 should increase the volume in case you turn on the switch up or down. In down position the clipping area is off.

Please, can someone verify??

[reddog22]

Hi all. This has been such a good read and all these valve pedals look great.
I finished mine last week. I built the Twincaster- Dual Valve caster and i've spent a few days trying to get it going to no avail. I built it as per the schematic and layout by Renegadrian. The only real difference is i put a blue LED in both tube sockets.
My drama is that with power on with no tubes it's ok and the LED's come on when i hit the footswitch. I then put one tube in and all ok but then when i insert the second tube,all the power goes and dies. I pull either of the tubes out and reconnect power and it's ok until i insert the tube again..
I've wired up another socket with a tube and wires and while one tube is inserted and power on,i insert the wires of spare socket one by one and have found that the pins 4 and 5 (heaters) are the ones that are causing the power to go.
I'm out of ideas other than to pull it apart and start again but thought i'd ask if one of you could help.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers

[peterg]

Reddog - welcome to the forum?

Please have a look at this and provide us with your info:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Debugging

[duck_arse]

also welcome, and what power supply are you using? please provide the nameplate ratings if it's a wart.

[reddog22]

Reddog - welcome to the forum?

Please have a look at this and provide us with your info:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Debugging

Cheers peterg and duck, heres some voltages               
Tube A empty      B inserted
1      10.6v               6.89
4       1.4mv             2.6mv
5       10.8                10.8
6       10.7                 5.2


Tube A inserted         B empty
1   7.7                      10.2
4    3.1mv                   1.6mv
5    10.8                    10.39
6    5.31                     10.28

No Tubes in
A                 B
1  11.9         11.9
4   0              0
5 12.1           12.1
6  12             12                         


I've had a read of the debugging pages and on other sites. Thought i'd see if i can get a hand before i pull it out and start again.
I'm using 12 volt power supply but had no luck with the 7812 regulator. Wired 2 up and didn't work.. But i built a single tube valvecaster on a breadboard with the power supply i have and it was hum free so i thought i wouldn't bother with the regulator on this one. If i need it i'll make a separate unit. My ww is 18v 1000mA and i use the 12v outlet on my board.
                                     

[duck_arse]

can you post the circuit you're building to, save me reading all those pages?

[reddog22]

Sorry duck,i'm not good with computers,i don't know how to post the circuit.
I don't expect you or anyone to go through this whole post to find the circuit either mate. I just thought any of the people who have built it and are familiar may have a few ideas off the top of their head. Cheers

[FuzzFanatic71]

Just a thought. How many milliamps of current does the 12v on your board pump out? I use a 500ma 12v for my Valvecaster in the pic at the top of the page. Your Twincaster might need at least 800ma to 1 amp to power both valves.

[reddog22]

Thanks Fuzz, I thought the 18v 1A power supply would be ample. No? Maybe not? I was thinking it seems the heaters are the culprits when both connected but using only pins 4 and 5 it uses 12.6v/150mA. So it needs 300mA,i should have plenty of juice left shouldn't i?

[FuzzFanatic71]

Thanks Fuzz, I thought the 18v 1A power supply would be ample. No? Maybe not? I was thinking it seems the heaters are the culprits when both connected but using only pins 4 and 5 it uses 12.6v/150mA. So it needs 300mA,i should have plenty of juice left shouldn't i?

I don't really know. I'm pretty much a newb when it comes to all this. I just make comments hoping that I'm on the right track. And then if I'm wrong which is usually the case, I just rely upon someone more learned piping in and correcting me. I don't ever feel dumb being wrong. I would feel dumber if I didn't ask.

[reddog22]

No worries,cheers Fuzz

[duck_arse]

how have you wired the heaters? there is a number of ways I can think of because of the centre-split.

are you working from a circuit in this thread, or did you draw-up your own?