Tube boost + overdrive running off a 9 volt battery

[Renegadrian]

All right, I used a non polarized then...
I built it today...It was a little more difficult than I believed...A lot of wiring and my wiring isn't the best, maybe I am ok in on board wiring but there is NO board here, so...
Anyway, I enjoyed my rendition, but I believe I went something wrong, maybe...It sounds quite good, it gives a nice bluesy sound but a little less distorsion compared to the video I saw on youtube...When it's engaged, there is a bloody background noise...Also, the LED doesn't light...Maybe I swapped the wires (LED-ground?)
I'll post some pics tomorrow...

EDIT: The valve lights up very little...It's an EH 12AU7

[brett]

Wild guess: earthing problem. 
Try gounding everything to 1 point (easily said, sometimes difficult to do)

[ambulancevoice]

EDIT: The valve lights up very little...It's an EH 12AU7

well, tubes arnt light bulbs

[Renegadrian]

brett, I used the layout that I saw on the second page of this thread.
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/1110/tubepedalpm0.jpg

Both IN and OUT sleeve have  4 ground wires connected...and one is the connection between them.
Any other clue? What about the LED??? I found that if I put the power plug just at the very beginning, the circuit still works and the LED lights...

[Renegadrian]

I tried to put everything on vero, as suggested in the first pages...I should add the LED part...
Anyway, check if it's correct or there are errors in it...

[Renegadrian]

I solved the LED thing, it wasn't made to be soldered to the free lug, but together with the positive...
I made a gallery for your curiosity...

http://web.tiscali.it/renegadrian/

I used a TEKO case, which has enough room for the valve and all the pieces...I built a "wall" for the tube with wood...I triple checked its measures and cut it to totally fit in - I was going to glue it, but it's not necessary. I made two holes, one that contains the tube socket (then glued in) and another one for the wires. I also made two "peepshow" holes in the enclosure just above the tube...
I just need to fix the paint inperfections, put some labels on and clear coat...But well, that's it...

[snoof]

Looks good 

[Sweetalk]

Can this be biased to use an 12AX7?, with more gain obviously... It's a very nice build!, I have to try it but I have only 12AX7's handy...

[Renegadrian]

i have a spare 12ax7 laying around, I tried it but the result is not the best...As you haven't got a good voltage that this valve needs, it sounds "boomy" and you can feel it's not the right choice...While the 12AU7 is good enough and can sound sweet with 9-12V

You may want to try Marsha Valve Tube, it uses a 12AX7 and it should be easy as this one, also it seems it's verified.
SCHEM and VERO LAYOUT

This is my next one, i already have valve socket enclosure, so I just need some little pieces...AndI'm gonna try the same building process, with the same valve placement. (altough I regret that this 12AU7 doesn't light that much...)

[Krinor]

Be sure to tell us how it sounds once you're done. 

[Renegadrian]

Sure I'll do, I think I fell in love with valves...(after all, I built this Valvecaster on Valentine's...)
I ordered the bits I miss...Next week Marsha will be mine!!! (the circuit, not a woman...) 

[Renegadrian]

Improved vero version of the Valvecaster...It should work, I optimized and completed the layout...

[Krinor]

That's nice.
If you want the tone pot to work the "normal" way (bass-left, treble-right) you should move C3 to lug 1.

[Ripdivot]

I just built a Valvecaster driving an SHO. I have installed a 100K master volume pot in place of the 100K resistor on the output of the SHO. It is currently on the bread board but will soon be on the pedal board. I love the way the Valvecaster overdrives the SHO mosfet. I tried the SHO in front of the Valvecaster as well but I like it better the other way. If you crank up the gain on the SHO as well as the gain and level control on the VC there is plenty of gain to be had. All this is running on 9 volts. I am bypassing the Valvecaster gain pot with a 2.2nf cap. This helps maintain some brightness when the VC gain is turned down. For the input cap on the Valvecaster I am using a combination of caps to give me 2.7nf. This helps tighten up the bottom end. The tube is a nos 12au7. I have been playing with the cap values in this circuit for a week and it sounds awesome with my Strat now into my blackface Fender amp. Seems like there are endless tones to be had with this pedal. It cleans up well with the guitar volume as well.

[Renegadrian]

Here's version 0.4 - removed unnecessary strips and optimized it again, tone now working the right way.
Should work...
Next is the MVT redrawn by me, it displays better in this layout...Credit obviously to the makers of the previous schem and layout...




BTW, sorry for my ignorance...what is a SHO?! 

Also, I know that there's ORMAN Tube Driver that's working on 9-12V, I found some good layout I'd be posting here...

[kurtlives]

Here's version 0.4 - removed unnecessary strips and optimized it again, tone now working the right way.
Should work...
Next is the MVT redrawn by me, it displays better in this layout...Credit obviously to the makers of the previous schem and layout...




BTW, sorry for my ignorance...what is a SHO?! 

Also, I know that there's ORMAN Tube Driver that's working on 9-12V, I found some good layout I'd be posting here...

Nice layout there...What is the second layout you posted.

SHO Super Hard On....made by Zvex

[Renegadrian]

Chris, the second layout is based on the  Marsha Valve Tube
SCHEM and VERO LAYOUT

[kurtlives]

O very nice...

How is it?

[Renegadrian]

Have to build it yet, got the parts on the way - I'll report it in some days...

[andrew_k]

Renegadrian: nice work on the vero layout; I might have to give that a try for my second build. Looks much easier to integrate with a boost circuit. My current favorite setup for this circuit is a medium gain jfet boost before and another after. The first one heats up the signal a little for the tube and the second one gets slammed by the tube boost. I also like a mosfet boost before the tube boost, but I haven't tried one after yet.

I was having a problem with mine whereby it would cut in and out, with an audible pop as it was cutting out. The solution for me has been running it at 12v.
I ran it for over an hour last night at 12v with no problem, where as at 9v it starts popping and dying within 2 minutes. It might just be the tubes, but I tried a couple of different ones and the result was the same.