Tube boost + overdrive running off a 9 volt battery

[tednet]

Hey there guys I made a valvecaster and sadly... I don't think I made it correctly

All i get when I turn the volume/gain is a brrmmmmm. No sound from guitar, just brm...... The tube filaments light up and stuff, and gets hot. I think they may be running at a higher voltage .... anyways... any1 got a PCB layout and PnP version? I just can't debug with hanging layouts ;(

[biggy boy]

Hey there guys I made a valvecaster and sadly... I don't think I made it correctly

All i get when I turn the volume/gain is a brrmmmmm. No sound from guitar, just brm...... The tube filaments light up and stuff, and gets hot. I think they may be running at a higher voltage .... anyways... any1 got a PCB layout and PnP version? I just can't debug with hanging layouts ;(

Huh? PNP transistors? not tubes?

[tednet]

press n peel stuff. toner transfer pcb. not transistors ofc

[biggy boy]

Ohhh i see!
I use a laser printer and print on ink jet glossy photo paper. Then use a hot cloths iron and heat it onto the board, then soak it in hot water to peel the paper away.

Glen

[tednet]

no no no, you still got me wrong

I was wondering if any1 has a PCB for toner transfer + the PCB layout for this project. I tried building it normally, with the provided layout and I failed. Now, I can't debug it cuz I am only used to debugging pcb projects. Also it's too chaotic this way :S

[firethorn]

no no no, you still got me wrong

I was wondering if any1 has a PCB for toner transfer + the PCB layout for this project. I tried building it normally, with the provided layout and I failed. Now, I can't debug it cuz I am only used to debugging pcb projects. Also it's too chaotic this way :S

define failed.

[tednet]

didn't have a 220k resistor, so I wired a few old russian resistors (from around 1970s)... anyways, all I get is brmmmm. The guitar signal doesn't go out the amp and well the tube gets ultra mega hot, I burned myself on it ;(

That is why I am asking for a pcb version, so I can make it properly

[frequencycentral]

didn't have a 220k resistor, so I wired a few old russian resistors (from around 1970s)... anyways, all I get is brmmmm. The guitar signal doesn't go out the amp and well the tube gets ultra mega hot, I burned myself on it ;(

That is why I am asking for a pcb version, so I can make it properly

Well here's my little contribution to this awesome thread.   
Here's a smaller PC board for this cool little pre.  I've used it and verified that it works.  Haven't hooked up the voltage divider section but it should work too. 

The trace and components are exactly mirrored so, fold on the line and  iron the trace and components on the PC at the same time.
This is 300dpi image.

[tednet]

gee thanks man I saw those, guess I'll make them

Oh and I just realized my mistake... I wired everything while looking on the wrong side of the socket....

[Ripthorn]

gee thanks man I saw those, guess I'll make them

Oh and I just realized my mistake... I wired everything while looking on the wrong side of the socket....

That'll get ya every time.

[tednet]

bleh I am getting even more confused >.< Do those numbers show the pins of the tube, or the pins of the socket >.<

[Renegadrian]

1 is pin 1 of the tube, the pcb posted is like having the tube glass point pointing at you.

[svstee]

Here is a vero layout I did for the subcaster, can anyone verify it? Schematic found here.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66746.0


I'm using a resistor instead of the LM317 setup, and the tube is oriented like this:

1         8
2         7
3         6
4         5

Thanks!

[Renegadrian]

I'll check it tomorrow, too tired now...Well, my eyes are, my ears not, so I am playing with the TRIODE TRIODE and with JERED 6021 HIGH GAIN - I like them both, built them some time ago and forgot them...Give them a try!!!

The second is more on the bass side, but has more gain, while the first is a good medium gain overdrive...

[frequencycentral]

Here is a vero layout I did for the subcaster, can anyone verify it? Schematic found here.

The 14 ohm should be 18 ohm / 2 watt. The 470K can just be 1/4 watt. You have also missed the 100K plate resistor at pin 8.

I did this perf layout for another forum member some while ago, you could take just the part you need and ignore the LM317 bit. It's not verified, but I think it's correct. The layout is designed to mount inside an enclosure like how I did my Pentadriver and Vintage Vibe, if you know what I mean.

[svstee]

Wow, don't know how I missed the resistor.
I think the resistor should be 14 or 15 ohms though, since I'm running this at 9v, that gives me 6.4v and 6v, respectively.
I meant for the three watt resistor to be R1. Why do you say it only needs to be two? What is the current of this?

[frequencycentral]

I think the resistor should be 14 or 15 ohms though, since I'm running this at 9v, that gives me 6.4v and 6v, respectively.
Why do you say it only needs to be two? What is the current of this?

OK, for 9 volts then:

6111 heater: 6.3v / 300ma
Voltage drop required: 2.7v

2.7 / 0.3 = 9 (ohms)
2.7 x 0.3 = 0.81 (watts)

So a 10 ohm / 1 watt resistor will give you 6 volts @ 300ma. Thats an easy value to find and within the tolerance of the heater. 

[svstee]

Ah, I was doing my math wrong! I had to find for the needed drop. That makes way more sense. Thank you much.

[svstee]

How about this

[Kaffeetrinker]

Hi! Regarding the Valvecaster...I m thinking about breadboarding it and use the Beginner-Project-Boost circuit in front to make the tube really drive (or any other boost circuit if I might find one I like more ) as soon as I get a 12AU7. What woul you say? Does it make sense? Will afford a couple of changes/additions of course, but thanks to the breadboard^^