Tube boost + overdrive running off a 9 volt battery

Started by dano12, December 11, 2007, 07:51:24 PM

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BarnyardBill

Cool, thanks for the link.

This an awesome thread btw.  I have read over about 1/2 of it and I can see that there is a lot of room for customizing this little gem.  Once I get my current project in an enclosure, I plan on spending some time getting to know about tubes.  In the end, I hope to be able to make my own tube amp head.  Just out of curiousity, would it be possible to make a 'tube locust' out of one of those large tubes that are used in tube amps?  Sorry if this is off topic.  Feel free to point me to a different thread.

-Billy

BarnyardBill

Quote from: Harold on November 10, 2010, 03:57:01 AM
Quote from: Astronaurt on November 10, 2010, 03:07:46 AM
I'm new to the site, so Idk if I'm using the search function right! Could I get a link for the Tube Star?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74888.0


Quote from: Astronaurt on November 10, 2010, 03:07:46 AMI'm not particularly interested in voltages above normal stomp box level, I'm building stuff so I can put on my Pedal Board and hook it up to my power brick mostly!

You can use a voltage booster inside your pedal, like this one:


http://diy-layout.com/42


Quote from: Astronaurt on November 10, 2010, 03:07:46 AMI also just looked up the Tillman circuit cuz I hadn't heard of it before and it sounds like an idea worth checking out. If I want to adjust the gain on that though, I'm thinking I should sub a pot for either R3 or R4.

I've also put the Tillman preamp in front of my ValveCaster and like it al lot! I could not get the J201 to function correctly so I replaced it with an 2N5485.


http://diy-layout.com/34

I was wondering about this voltage booster.  If it was place directly in front of the Valvecaster, would it work properly, or would it blow a 12AU7 tube?  I am new to this stuff and I am just doing some research while I get all my parts lined up.  Or, say you stopped at around 30V to avoid any shock hazards.  Would this give a different sound? 

Take cares,

Bill Blackburn

zambo

morwe voltage on pins 1 and 6 equal more volume and more mids. the overall sound is a lot more punchy. I like them at around 45 volts or so. Just make sure the heaters stay at normal voltage. You have to run the plate resistors seperate from pin 5.you also have to take component values into consideration. If you havent ordered parts yet, get higher voltage caps and 1/2 watt resistors. Almost the same price . Have fun, G
I wonder what happens if I .......

BarnyardBill

good point.  Do you have a layout for the 45volt version with voltage booster?  Also, what are the red squares with a red dot inside of them?  What component does it represent? Soon for the noob question.

Bill

deadastronaut

Quote from: BarnyardBill on January 09, 2011, 03:12:44 PM
good point.  Do you have a layout for the 45volt version with voltage booster?  Also, what are the red squares with a red dot inside of them?  What component does it represent? Soon for the noob question.

Bill

cuts!... :icon_wink:
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

tipetu

I made a little rectifier circuit (for the original pedal of this thread) and it is now 1000000% quiet!! No 50-100Hz hum whatsoever!!

The reason why I`m posting this now is because I KNOW there are people out there who built this pedal and are struggling with bad wall warts.

Connect this simple (yet damn effective) circuit between the crappy wall wart and the pedal, and all the demons will dissapear.



Notice the voltageregulator is a 12V regulator. Heck I even used it on 9V and they both sounded wonderful!



And here is a videoclip with studio recording.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDNPehH2VZQ

Just wanted to share that with yall.

BarnyardBill

Quote from: deadastronaut on January 09, 2011, 03:26:48 PM

Bill

cuts!... :icon_wink:
[/quote]

ok, and one more noob question.  For the diodes, the end with a black bar is positive or negative?  I assume its negative, but just to make sure. 

Bill

deadastronaut

ha ha....yep negative bar.......triangle positive... :icon_mrgreen.

look forward to hearing this project!....looks good!. ...dont worry i'm still a noob too!.... :icon_cool:
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

bassmannate

Quote from: BarnyardBill on January 09, 2011, 11:58:14 AM
Quote from: Harold on November 10, 2010, 03:57:01 AM
Quote from: Astronaurt on November 10, 2010, 03:07:46 AM
I'm new to the site, so Idk if I'm using the search function right! Could I get a link for the Tube Star?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74888.0


Quote from: Astronaurt on November 10, 2010, 03:07:46 AMI'm not particularly interested in voltages above normal stomp box level, I'm building stuff so I can put on my Pedal Board and hook it up to my power brick mostly!

You can use a voltage booster inside your pedal, like this one:


http://diy-layout.com/42


Quote from: Astronaurt on November 10, 2010, 03:07:46 AMI also just looked up the Tillman circuit cuz I hadn't heard of it before and it sounds like an idea worth checking out. If I want to adjust the gain on that though, I'm thinking I should sub a pot for either R3 or R4.

I've also put the Tillman preamp in front of my ValveCaster and like it al lot! I could not get the J201 to function correctly so I replaced it with an 2N5485.


http://diy-layout.com/34

I was wondering about this voltage booster.  If it was place directly in front of the Valvecaster, would it work properly, or would it blow a 12AU7 tube?  I am new to this stuff and I am just doing some research while I get all my parts lined up.  Or, say you stopped at around 30V to avoid any shock hazards.  Would this give a different sound? 

Take cares,

Bill Blackburn

You only want the high voltage on the plates which are pins 1 and 6. The heaters are still looking for around 12v. 9v on the heaters is fine if that's what you're using.

Someone please chime in. I've only ever messed with 12v on this. If you're using 9v, would you use the center tap on the heater and just over volt them? Someone please explain for our friend a bit more than I can.

Jule553648

Quote from: zambo on January 09, 2011, 01:51:52 PM
morwe voltage on pins 1 and 6 equal more volume and more mids. the overall sound is a lot more punchy. I like them at around 45 volts or so. Just make sure the heaters stay at normal voltage. You have to run the plate resistors seperate from pin 5.you also have to take component values into consideration. If you havent ordered parts yet, get higher voltage caps and 1/2 watt resistors. Almost the same price . Have fun, G

Can you overvolt without other modifications than the separate heater power?

Or you must change some resistors?

BarnyardBill

Anyone tried putting a lovepedal eternity boost in front of the valvecaster?  Or, does it sound better with more tubes in series?

zambo

just the heaters. You also really need to make sure caps are rated for the voltage and using 1/2 watt resistors is good too. I like to double the cap voltage I.e. 45 volt pedal made with 100 volt caps etc. Cant be to safe  ;)
I wonder what happens if I .......

BarnyardBill

#2052
Re: High Voltage Valvecaster.       

Check out Garth's Valvecaster layout and pics on pg. 77. 

IbanezRG95

Check out my thread if you're interested in a valve caster/ tube cricket hybrid amp. Very interesting (thanks srv for your contribution).

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=89073.0

Feel free to add anything.  :icon_idea:

BarnyardBill

#2054
That looks pretty neat.  Unfortunately I am having some difficulties getting my Valvcaster working properly.  I am going to have to start reading voltages to see where the problem is.  I have a feeling it could be my capacitors that are running in parallel b/c I dont have the .047uF cap so I used 2 x .022uF in parallel to make one .044uF.  Is that correct?  

Thanks,

Bill

P.S.  My tube is lighting up, so I at least have something correct

zambo

that is correct. If you have doubts, use just the .022uf. They sound really good. Sometimes I use .002. They sound good to if you are going for a more distorted sound.
I wonder what happens if I .......

BarnyardBill

Hey, I 'm pretty stoked.  My small breadboard was so hard to work with so I switched circuits and tried the "Triode Triode".  I am 99% sure that it is working.  I mean it is a subtle difference in sound and I am not using the full 12V although I am tempted to work something out with my wall wart.  After trying for 1 full day I have finally got some juice flowing through.  One BIG problem was that I wasn't wiring the 1/4" jacks correctly.  Go figure.  I bet my Tubecaster was correct all except the jacks.   :P  Oh well.  Obviously I need the practice. 

It seems that cap values are not so important as long you have something similar.  Although, I would not go willy nilly with a high voltage scheme.

I really need to make a decision on a few enclosures and go ahead and order them.  personally, one of my favorite I have seen is the small enclosure with the tube sticking out. 

Thanks a lot,

Bill


BarnyardBill

Quote from: Renegadrian on February 03, 2010, 08:59:07 PM
Quote from: zambo on February 03, 2010, 08:05:29 PM
Well, Thank you very much! :icon_redface: I will take those as great compliments! I am trying to figure out how to run these at 30 volts or so. I know the heater only gets 12.6 max  so where do I hook up the 30 volts? To the anodes? I am looking for a schematic but I cant tell the mechanics of it from vero board layouts. ( iwish I wasnt such a visual person). Any one have a clue? ( its a rhetorical question, I know Renegadrian knows...  ;) )

Yeah, more voltage goes to the anodes - if you use my layout here (or follow to get the idea) you see a red wire that gives power to two res (R2-R3) that go to first and second anode (pins 1 and 6) and then on the same line pin 5 (one of the heaters) is connected - to apply different voltages, you can use that very same layout, just connecting pin5 to the +12V and whatever upper voltage you want to that row with the red wire!

Renegadrian and Zambo,

Ok, I think am following this explanation of how to use higher voltages with this layout(here) like you mentioned.  If I start with a 30V power supply, could I use a 12V regulator placed before pin5 and be ok?

I am just getting some ideas on how to implement what you are describing.

I play a lot of jazz stuff, so I really like the subtle tube overdrive sound. 

Also, I saw someone mention that 12AU7 runs optimal at 100V.  Has anyone tried such high voltage with this?  I think that would be more for power amps and such.


Bill

zambo

Sure you could. That should work fine. I am nor sure about vero cause I am not very good at visualizing it. If you have a 30 volt supply run 1 wire off of it to a 12 volt regulater trhen to pin 5 and ground pin 4. Pin 9 is not used. Run another wire to pin 1 through a 100k resister in series. Run another wire to pin 6 with a 220k resistor in series. An easier way though in my opinion is to use a voltage multiplier, They are quite simple and you can make more or less volts to suite your needs. Frequency Central ( Rick Holt ) Has made some small and nicley laid out ones. I have run them up to about 100 or so volts. I think 30 to 60 is more than adequate though. You have to judge for yourself. When you are using more voltage you should put a resistor on pins 3 and 8 to ground for the cathode. 1.5 k is pretty standard. You could also just never turn your gain knob all the way to 10 but resistore are cheap right?
I wonder what happens if I .......

BarnyardBill

Alright.  Cool.  Do you usually put the voltage booster inside the same enclosure, or do you think it is too large ?