Tube boost + overdrive running off a 9 volt battery

[texstrat]

Looking at the diagram I posted on this page #2770, pin 4 is going to ground and pin 5 is getting power from the dc jack. Remove the (+) wire from pin 5 and run a wire from the out leg of the regulator to pin 5?

[iccaros]

sure, either pin 4 or pin 5 could be positive it does not matter. so if you have it that way, connecting pin 5 to put of the voltage regulator and 4 to ground

[texstrat]

Ok, I think the light has finally come on.

Correct me if I am wrong.....I have the LED and a wire lead to pin 5 connected to the positive on the DC jack, remove those and connect them to the leg out on the regulator.

So I wind up with negative DC jack to NEGATIVE leg of regulator, positive DC jack to IN leg of regulator, LED and Pin 5 to OUT leg of regulator.

[iccaros]

something like this

[iccaros]

If anyone has time, here is a link to my Diptrace and Gerber exports (with n/c drill) of a 12v valvecaster with no tone stack. 
They look correct to me, but I have not built this yet. If anyone sees any issues please let me know, I do not have a good tube PCB socket, so I have not checked sizes of the one on here
fell free to use this if you think it right. Once I test and check sizes, I will have some made in a test run, I'll forward the link so anyone who wants one can just order from the board maker.
Thanks
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14312589/ValveNoTone.zip

[texstrat]

something like this

That resolved the hum issue, soooo much happier now.

[rugeb]

My design: VALVE OVERDRIVE 9v (with clipping): GREAT OVERDRIVE!

[flyingkiwi]

Gidday everybody, I've been reading and researching this project for a week or so and have managed to get one built on the breadboard, it's sure been a fun learning experience!  And sounds great!

One thing that bothered me was not being able to get 12.6v to the heaters, I've built a supply using a 18v laptop supply and a 7812 regulator gave 12v...close but not close enough! 

Well, I found something not sure if it's been mentioned here yet but by putting a 1N4001 between the middle pin of the regulator and ground I now get the perfect 12.6!!!  Thanks to www.tube-town.net in the DIY section!  They suggest using 1N4007 not sure if it's a big deal or not to replace with 1N4001 but all seems good to me....

Just noticed the last post with the clipping...gonna try that one tonight!  Right after I've finished the dual-caster 

Thanks to everyone that has made this project so interesting!
   
Got my 6111s today so looking forward to the sub-caster as well!!!!!

[tasos]

You can use 1n4001 or 1n4007 no big deal!
It would be if you were messing with bigger voltages and currents!
If the tube(s) draw more than 1A from your regulator then you would be in trouble!

[texstrat]

I want to have the ability to switch the C1 capacitor between values. I got a dpdt switch, soldered sockets to the outside legs to make switching easier and then connected the wire between the two middle lugs.

When I engaged the pedal the volume was a fraction of what is was before the tweak. I could hear the differences between the two values, 0.1 and 0.022uf, but again the volume was very low.

I would like the ability to switch cap values, one for single coil and the other for humbuckers. Some one stated that the 0.022uf cap was good for the humbuckers.

What did I do wrong to make the volume drop drastically?

[rugeb]

Mod switch input cap:

[texstrat]

Yep that is how I had it. Removed it from the circuit and everything worked fine.

Before I removed it, I checked for cold solder joints or loose connections and I had none. It should have worked, but for so reason it did not.

[rugeb]

Without the switch worked fine? because then the capacitors or the switch are bad!
Try changed  the caps and the switch...

[texstrat]

Without the switch worked fine? because then the capacitors or the switch are bad!
Try changed  the caps and the switch...

Both the switch and caps are new.

I just checked capacitance with my DMM and for the 0.1 I got 0.117 and for the 0.022 I got 0.032 which looks to be within tolerance.

Any other thoughts?

[zambo]

is the 1m resistor from pin 2 to ground or is it on the jack like a lot of pedals. Im not positive but i think it has to be from 2 to ground.

[texstrat]

is the 1m resistor from pin 2 to ground or is it on the jack like a lot of pedals. Im not positive but i think it has to be from 2 to ground.

Zambo, I wired it PtP, so the 1M resistor is between pins 2 and 4.

Note: To clarify, the DPDT switch I am using is a ON-ON type.

[rugeb]

My veroboard is VERIFIED.

Images:

[texstrat]

Is there any perceivable difference between the two diagrams and the way the volume/tone are wired?

Also, I changed the gain pot value to 100K from 50K, but I am still not satisfied with the breakup. Is there anything else I can do to increase the gain? The last image shows what values I am using. I have also removed C1 and put it on a DPDT switch with a 0.022 cap so that I can use with a single coil or humbucker pickup.

[texstrat]

Can a 1n4001 be used in place of the 1n4148 on the center pin of the 7812 to bump the heater voltage from 12 to 12.6?

[rugeb]

The heater voltage is not critical. My veroboard is VERIFIED: copy!
Another power supply (12V amp with 12AU7 + JRC386):