Behrigner SMT madness!

[momo]

I had this headphone distribution amp from them that was crapping out intermitently and since its all smt, I could not really fix it so what the heck, I decided to gut it and use the parts.
Well, I was not expecting a torrodial transfo in there!...score!....Ill keep the jacks and pots too.
The lighted switches intrigue me, I would love to use those in a buiild, would that be complicated? are the leds usable?

[Boogdish]

I spent last Sunday cannabalizing a blown head from a Behringer keyboard combo amp.  I used an LED off mine for clipping and it worked fine.  You should definitely give the lighted switches a shot, if we can illuminate a plexiglass plate on the bottom of a pedal, why not the switch?

[momo]

So I have been trying to desolder some jacks with my 25w  and some wick......what the fu## is wrong with Behringner solder!!!!
Im just about to pull a David Letterman trick and throw this off a highrise, then maybe I can salvage some parts 
Nothing, I mean nothing desolders, and there is not much there.
For sure as soon as I can afford it, Ill buy a variable power iron and hit this board with 50w, as far as I know, my iron still works fine for soldering, WTF!!!!

Sorry for that but im sooo frustrated, I could salvage 20 something jacks on there and at least 12 pots. The pots are different, they have 6 leads....double ganged pots?

[Zben3129]

Sometimes the solder is so heavily coated with anti-oxidization material that you can't contact the solder with the iron at all.

You could try taking a dremel with any grinding/rough tool of some kind and hitting the joints you want to desolder

Acid, maybe? I have never tries this, but if you were careful maybe muriatic acid would eat through the solder? May want to get someone elses opinion before I ruin your board.

Zach

[Boogdish]

Instead of a 50w iron, you could maybe get a desoldering iron.  I got one for Christmas and my behringer salvage job was my test drive for it.  It was a lot easier than using desolder braid, and it makes a very satisfying "plunk" sound when you release the spring.

[ncc]

Maybe you're having problem because the PCB has multiple layers and
it needs more heat to get through.

One trick someone gave me a long ago was to use a propane torch
like the ones used for plumbing.
You direct the flame on the solder side of the PCB (not the component side)
and the parts should just fall down.


ncc

[George Giblet]

Lead free solder, larger copper areas around components (see pics), internal planes, and even large copper areas on the other side of the board, all add to the problem of desoldering.

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

So I have been trying to desolder some jacks with my 25w  and some wick......what the fu## is wrong with Behringner solder!!!!
Im just about to pull a David Letterman trick and throw this off a highrise, then maybe I can salvage some parts 
Nothing, I mean nothing desolders, and there is not much there.

What is 'wrong' is, it's lead-free solder.

One workaround, if it is a part you REALLY want, is to just get some cutters and nibble the board away from the component.

[gez]

Personally, I wouldn't have gutted it.  I appreciate that there's a fair bit of surface mount stuff there, but the layouts are spacious so it wouldn't have been that difficult to work on.  Once you get your fingers dirty with SM, it's not that frightening. 

I know that it's too late now, but just wanted to encourage others here to give repair a go (you have nothing to loose if it doesn't work) when confronted with SM parts.

[Elektrojänis]

Personally, I wouldn't have gutted it.  I appreciate that there's a fair bit of surface mount stuff there, but the layouts are spacious so it wouldn't have been that difficult to work on.  Once you get your fingers dirty with SM, it's not that frightening. 

I second this. If the problem is intermittent, it is very likely that the problem is not on the SMD-stuff anyway. It is more likely in the jacks, switches or pots anyway.

What comes to recycling the parts, don't forget the case... You now have a very nice box that can even be rack mounted for some project of your own. It even has a nice toroidial transformer (that seems to have a shielding band around it for extra low magnetic stray field). Better yet... The transformer attached to the case so you dont have to worry about htat either. The transformer probably gives you nice 15-0-15 AC output that can be rectified and regulated for a +/- 15VDC that is just perfect for many audio projects.

[momo]

The problem with it was intermitent but also very whakky. Sometimes, the leds would stay on with no signal input, had very bad hum on the outputs,some kind of short somewhere, yes I could of checked it out, but one of the reasons I started this hobby was because I have this insatiable curiosity of how things work and really wanted to open it up.
I remember when I was 9 years old, one day I decided to see how the family toaster worked and was confident I could take it apart, check it out and reassemble it before mom came home from work
Well I got busted real easy, after putting the thing back together, I had a couple of peices and screws left and really thought that it could work without it and that no one would know .
I did not know at the time but my parents did not have alot of money, it was a complete tradgedy to my mom!

So anyways, I don't regret gutting this one, it has a great 18v torrodial and lots of jacks and pots and a rackmount 19 inch case, plus some lighted switches that I hope I can figure the voltage out without burning the leds as I discover.
Im not the most patient person by far and I gained some doing this hobby, but I can assure you that smt is not for me!, for fun, I tried to desolder a smt chip in there.....completly destroyed the leads in 2 sec flat! OK, if the darn solder would heat up, maybe I would of been able

That being said, when im done gutting the jacks(if I can ever heat the solder), I have no problem giving the rest of the board with the smt to anyone here willing to take it. For sure, its completely useless to me!

[rogeryu_ph]

Paul is right just get a cutter and nibble the board Me I did some gutting or salvaging also I can't desolder it co'z the parts were soldered back and in front co'z it back to back PCB, so I tell myself to use cutter plier and solder is useless. Finally after cutting each parts every parts would threw up and bounce to my room ceiling and I have to search where thay land and it was fun .... BTW I only cut through near the parts I want to salvage.

Roger

[drewl]

It probably just needed some connections reflowed.
Anyway, too late for that.
Alot of SMD parts are glued to the board before they are soldered, this may be your problem.
Hot air is used to melt the solder and the glue  to remove the parts.

SCORE!
I trash-picked a little Korg keyboard this weekend!
got some nice 16mm pots, a bunch of other mini pots and jacks and switches I can use to fix other stuff!
bada-bada.....bada bada bada baa....(Sanford & Son theme)...the mrs starts humming this when I bring home trashpicked goodies.....