Show me your 1590A enclosures/pedals...

[Marcos - Munky]

I use metal bushings. But you can use one of those connectors attached to the 3pdt or pot.



Also, you can solder a wire to the back of the pot. I once saw some pics of a pedal whose buider soldered an wire to the metal part of the 3pdt, but I think this isn't the better option.

[duck_arse]

I've been known to run a small strip of self-adhesive copper tape over one of the pot holes [in my usual sub-panel] and solder a grounding wire to it and back to the board.

[EBK]

Thanks for the input on my shielding question.  I went with a ground wire soldered to a piece of copper shielding tape.  Next time, though, I'll probably stick to jacks with metal bushings.

Anyway, I promised some pics "soon", and "soon" is now.  Here is my very first completed 1590A build, a Madbean Donut (it's based on the LPB-1):


Gutshot (this pic was taken before I added that shielding wire -- well, technically, the wire is there, in the lower-right, but unconnected):


I decided to do something different with the indicator LED on this build.  I used a bright white LED inside the enclosure shining onto a recessed panel to provide indirect (reflected) light.  I color corrected the "white" LED to make it a bit more like a tungsten-filament incandescent bulb by using a small piece of a 3/4 CTO lighting gel (you can see the gel piece in the gutshot pic).

Here is a picture of the lighting without the donut in the way:


As for the "donut" decoration, I made it from a metal washer, which I covered with JB Weld and painted.  The "sprinkles" are made from bits of cut up wire-wrap wire.

[thermionix]

Somebody's gotta do it:

[EBK]

Somebody's gotta do it:

Before Brian created the Donut PCB, he added a "Donut" button to the MBP page (inspired by a forum discussion around adding a Donate button).  The Donut button, which is still there, links to this pic:


I imagine the Donut PCB was just a continuation of this fun. 

Thus, the Homer cycle is completed.   

[italianguy63]

Coming soon!

By request (by Eric strangely)  -- the (small rodent) "Nutria Mini" - AKA ProCo RAT 1590A.

Prototyping done -- just have to piece it together and test it.

Pictures at 11:00.



MC

[EBK]

By request (by Eric strangely)  -- the (small rodent) "Nutria Mini" - AKA ProCo RAT 1590A.

I blame this guy:

[italianguy63]

By request (by Eric strangely)  -- the (small rodent) "Nutria Mini" - AKA ProCo RAT 1590A.

I blame this guy:

Have you named him?

I dub him "Anderson Pooper"

[EBK]

He came with the name Pretzel.  My kids have been calling him Pretzel Piggy.

[thermionix]

I dub him "Anderson Pooper"

Make sure to dye his hair white in late adolescence, so that (nobody) will take him seriously.

[italianguy63]

The Nutria Mini.... (ProCo RAT 1590A)

Went together great!  Great build!

Only, 1 minor problem.. it doesn't work.

Lights up, no effect... gotta' unbox it and troubleshoot it.

BOOO!!!

MC

[italianguy63]

And just like that....

On the very rare occasion I did not socket the IC (saving room in the 1590A).  The OPAMP is bad.

It always happens like this!

Got it torn apart and the bad component out.  Having to redo some wiring now that got marred up getting it apart.

MC

[stallik]

Just received my first 1590A's
You guys are all nuts!

[bluebunny]

Just received my first 1590A's
You guys are all nuts!

This was my feeling when my first 1590As turned up.  It's quite normal.  And after building the first two or three, this feeling was confirmed. 

And then I bought some more.  Twice.   

[Marcos - Munky]

Yeah, that's how I felt like when I got my 1st one. We all are nuts!

[slashandburn]

I feel like I should post this question here (I promise that I will have a 1590A pic soon):
How do you guys ground your 1590A enclosures (for shielding) when using jacks with plastic bushings?

I'm just thinking out loud here, been a while since I was brave enough to try a 1590A build.  Since the box can't possibly hold a 9V, is it safe to assume the back plate is unlikely to be removed? This might allow the lazy "solder free" approach of just jamming a bare ground wire into the screw holes, much like in way you often see TOM bridges on guitars grounded.

Obviously more of a hack than a professional, reliable approach but the screw should hold the ground wire in place at least until the back panel is removed.

[bluebunny]

Since the box can't possibly hold a 9V

Don't be so sure.  All sorts of miracles have occurred in the very thread. 

[Marcos - Munky]

13th build of 2018: Dan Armstrong Green Ringer. Been building stuff since 2002, but didn't got to build this one before, even it's a classic project and a kinda mandatory effect to build.

[bluebunny]

Neat. 

[thomasha]

9v? What about 250v?


I use a different approach, use a bare wire, a solid one is better, make a ring, put the ring between the jack and the enclosure, solder one end to your ground. The jack will keep it in place.
Done it a lot in tube amps to avoid ground loops, when using jacks with plastic bushings.