Show me your 1590A enclosures/pedals...

[solderman]

Na
The Copy Cat is a delay but its digital. Although there is possibly an analog out there wanting to be shrieked 

[phector2004]

wow... i really admire how much work you guys put into these... tried to make a 1590 myself...

let's just say it wasn't enjoyable, BUT i did learn many things! Here it is:





[EDIT: It's a OC140 NPN Rangemaster! Was in a rush to play with it!]
Not really willing to open the thing up for a gutshot because I cheated a little, and also cause it's bursting with wires!  

Some tips for noobs:

1) ALWAYS drill the 1/4" jacks a bit further apart if you're not sure. The drill shifted about 0.5mm left for the right jack, and 0.5mm right for the left jack, and ended up shorting out.

2) Wedge cardboard between shorting-out 1/4" Jacks   (ok... just kidding. learn to PLAN)

3) Be careful when you order (got 24mm pots by accident... was originally planning on adding a fuzz circuit to switch between, now its just true bypass)

4) 1590A's are smaller than they appear online!!!

That's all for now! Might build a small amp next time I'm reckless enough to order a mini enclosure

[tubelectron]

Not really willing to open the thing up for a gutshot because I cheated a little, and also cause it's bursting with wires!

Hi Phector2004,

One question : is there a battery in it ?
I think it's impossible to do so, as there would be no room for the rest... But I may be wrong !

A+ !

[phector2004]

No way to fit a battery into my RM!!! Here's a pic actually:



I ended up "cheating" by drilling out 2 of the corners so I could fit a pot and a jack flush with the edge, but I still had space issues. The jacks are shorting, which I fixed by wedging a washer on one side and stuffing cardboard in between  it's my own pedal, so I figured, why not!

As for adding a battery, I think it's possible. Wasn't my original plan cause I was gonna have it switch between a Muff Fuzz and a Rangemaster, but I guess if you use a 16 or 9mm pot, get rid of the SPDT I used to switch between single coils/humbuckers, and make the circuit just a bit smaller, it's doable. Most of my space was used up by wiring spaghetti, so maybe a PCB with onboard jacks and pot would work nicely.

If you try it, post pics!!!

[neurino]

Dear sirs and madams let me introduce you the

µPARSER



it's a micro Parallel Serial - looper

It can be used as:

• Parallel loop with blend control
• Serial loop with volume control
• AB amp selector (with disabled exit grounded)
• AB instrument selector (with passive volume control for 1 input)
• Tuner out with mute
• Buffer, on-off switchable (why switchable? don't know but some boutique buffers have it )
• Passive attenuator (using a jumper cable between send and return)
• ABY (using toggle for Y) - untested tho
• probably something else...

I managed somehow to fit into it a 3PDT footswitch, a DPDT toggle, a 500K pot, a minimal blender circuit, 4 jacks and a DC jack along with some (deci)meters of cable

No decal but I want to engrave in/out names on top using a pantogaph.

[phector2004]

eyes






knees



Jaw
floor



WOW! How did you manage to cram so much into it? Also, is that a cyan LED?

[arma61]

Dear sirs and madams let me introduce you the

µPARSER



it's a micro Parallel Serial - looper

It can be used as:

• Parallel loop with blend control
• Serial loop with volume control
• AB amp selector (with disabled exit grounded)
• AB instrument selector (with passive volume control for 1 input)
• Tuner out with mute
• Buffer, on-off switchable (why switchable? don't know but some boutique buffers have it )
• Passive attenuator (using a jumper cable between send and return)
• ABY (using toggle for Y) - untested tho
• probably something else...

I managed somehow to fit into it a 3PDT footswitch, a DPDT toggle, a 500K pot, a minimal blender circuit, 4 jacks and a DC jack along with some (deci)meters of cable

No decal but I want to engrave in/out names on top using a pantogaph.

WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW 


and I see also the newly invented "knobsock"

[neurino]

WOW! How did you manage to cram so much into it? Also, is that a cyan LED?

One red and one green: typical on-off style.

I think that if I didn't use standard switched DC jack but a smaller one there was room also for a phase inverter toggle on the other side but I was working on a true bypass looper I already had.

In need a peace of "glowing-in-the dark plastic" to stuck in the shaft cut then fix with glue and cover again with black heat-shrink tube so I can get kind of knob marker.
When I was a boy I had them anywhere but now I don't see them anymore... is it banned because of toxicity or whatever?

[Thomeeque]

and I see also the newly invented "knobsock"

[Taylor]

Wow. I finally bought a couple of these. They are even smaller than I thought! My respect for you guys has increased even further now that I realize how tiny these little things are. Now looking back at some of the things you guys have done makes my jaw drop.

[Hides-His-Eyes]

I wouldn't be able to fit most of these things in an MXR enclosure!

[neurino]

Ok I engraved the enclosure of the µPARSER shown above, here's the semi-final version: I only need a "crutch" for the "knobsock"



(the shade around the "O" of OUT it's due to me starting with wrong char dimension )

[clydes001]

Wow neurino. That is excellent.

[solderman]

On demand
here is MXR Phase 90 Not verified

http://solderman.fatabur.se/MXR90/P90 PCB.pdf
http://solderman.fatabur.se/MXR90/P90.pdf

[solderman]

Hi all
CAUTION THE POST ABOW HAD ERRORS WHEN FIRST POSTED.

I Just checked my layout and found errors. There was an faulty connection and the zener diode was turned incorrectly. Errors fixed and the documents are updated 

AND I Have not verifyed it yet with a working build.

[tubelectron]

No way to fit a battery into my RM!!! Here's a pic actually:

I ended up "cheating" by drilling out 2 of the corners so I could fit a pot and a jack flush with the edge, but I still had space issues. The jacks are shorting, which I fixed by wedging a washer on one side and stuffing cardboard in between  it's my own pedal, so I figured, why not!

As for adding a battery, I think it's possible. Wasn't my original plan cause I was gonna have it switch between a Muff Fuzz and a Rangemaster, but I guess if you use a 16 or 9mm pot, get rid of the SPDT I used to switch between single coils/humbuckers, and make the circuit just a bit smaller, it's doable. Most of my space was used up by wiring spaghetti, so maybe a PCB with onboard jacks and pot would work nicely.

If you try it, post pics!!!

Thanks Phector2004,

I have some purchases to do and I'll add 2x1590A enclosures in the list to make a trial with a integrated 9VDC Battery, for a booster, a single transistor overdrive, or so... but if I want 2 controls, 2 jacks, 1 ext PSU jack, 1 FSW and one led, as any normal stompbox, it may be tough but doable with subminiature components. Looking to neurino's release and yours inspires me, but there is no battery, however...

Wait and see !

A+!

[solderman]

You can use small litium batteries @3V like this ones and pack them together to get 3x3=9V.



I did this in this PNP Ge Fuzz cause I didn't wane make it GND negative and use external pover.
The little black package is the battery pack. It has last for a year now. Although I don't use it that much.

[neurino]

I tried to fit parts along with a standard 9V battery and I'm quite sure wou have to leave one of these out: 1/4" jacks OR 3PDT switch OR 9V battery.

For example a buffer with switching jack or maybe a toggle is possible...

Another thing that would free some good space for a 9V battery would be to drill away one of the 4 screw threaded holes to get a "battery corner"

[phector2004]

drilling the 2 diagonal screwholes can give quite a bit of space! I've got one of my jacks 1 or 2mm from the edge of the case doing this.
I've never gotten closed jacks, but I think it might be a good idea for a tiny project, so they can be placed really close without shorting. How are they in terms of size?
Also, have you tried using mini DPDTs without an LED?

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=23

I have this on my FF. Its about the same size as a DPDT toggle, maybe a bit smaller, and it seems pretty rugged

[neurino]

I think closed jacks take more space than open ones, you can see a blender in precedent pages that uses closed jacks and it's really crowded inside, more than mine that uses open ones.

About shorting also open ones can be placed really close without shorting... if you take care of course...