Show me your 1590A enclosures/pedals...

[Valoosj]

It's not finished yet, but I am going to have it polished and that will take about two more weeks.
Since I just drilled and fitted everything here are some pics!



Ruby amp with speaker and headphone outputs. As an extra a little speaker as you can see in the next pic.

[Solidhex]

Awesome!

  Let us know how it sounds!

--Brad

[solderman]

Hi
I posted a new thread About this one but I post it here also since it was this tread that got me started with this one.

This is the Mini Man


And here are all the info files about him
http://solderman.fatabur.se/projects.htm

Here how he sounds (sorry for the crappy guitar playing. It is not his fault)

http://solderman.fatabur.se/MiniMan/MiniMan_Sound.htm

If you want to follow his birth
http://solderman.fatabur.se/MiniMan/build/MiniMan_build.htm


//Solderman

[1878]

Hysteresis Oscillator:

[teletroy]

byoc confidence booster

[solderman]

Hallo again
Meet The little Red Rooster. Its a Tremolo in my miniseries built in to Hammond 1950A since boxes.






Earlier I have posted  Mr Mini Man, A booster with non, Si or MOSFET clipping.
Next is a Fuzz of some kind (haven't decided yet)
- A digital delay
- A Hi gain distortion built a round a couple of J201
- A tree nob mild dist like TS808 Or maybe the OCD
- A compressor DOD 250 or Orange squeezer??




//Solderman 

[Valoosj]

We appear to have the same ideas solderman. 

On my list I have the following:
Ruby
SHO
Box of Rock
Tremulus Lune
Orange Squeezer
Fuzz Face (don't know which one though, probably a modded one)
Hysteresis oscillator
Phase 90 (if I can squeeze it in)
And I'd love a delay, but most schematics are too big to fit in an A enclosure.

[jacobyjd]

lol...one of the delays on my board uses a PT2395...that chip would cover almost 1/2 the enclosure 

[1878]

The use of the 1590a for the Hysteresis Oscillator was out of necessity rather than any aesthetic purpose. I had limited space on my board but had to get the pedal on there somehow. To be honest, I could probably have gotten away with housing it in the next size up, but I had the enclosure lying about from a previously aborted build and thought, 'Ooh...'.

When the time came to fit everything in, the caps I'd used where quite large and were touching the output jack. This left the board proud and the back unable to bolt in properly. I removed them, bought some small (very small) caps and voila !! Overall, the build was a pain in the arse from beginning to end, but I love how it looks and sounds. It also seems to pique peeps curiosity due to it's diminutive apparel.

[Valoosj]

Can we see the guts? What is that switch for btw? I found a pcb layout, but it has 2 pots and no switch.

[solderman]

We appear to have the same ideas solderman. 

On my list I have the following:
Ruby
SHO
Box of Rock
Tremulus Lune
Orange Squeezer
Fuzz Face (don't know which one though, probably a modded one)
Hysteresis oscillator
Phase 90 (if I can squeeze it in)
And I'd love a delay, but most schematics are too big to fit in an A enclosure.

Hallo Yorick.
Everything is big in America. Here in Europe we tend to keep things smaller 
I love your  Ruby, especially the speaker where did you get that one, cell phone? Got it together yet?

I have found that if you use jacks meant for PCB (like the ones you used) an cut there legs (se the Little Red Rooster) you will be able to put the PCB on top of the jacks and the pots and have a 60mm X 32mm PCB as long as the components will fall within the height of 11mm from solder side to the top of the component. I will try to build a delay using a PT2399 around the Tonpad Reboat delay 2.5. I think that a Phase 90 actually would be easier if you use a quad Opamp since the hook-up wire tend to be the biggest problem and the P90 has one pot and a delay has 3. I will post all my layouts on my site in DIY creator format.

Good Luck

\\Solderman

[Valoosj]

We appear to have the same ideas solderman. 

On my list I have the following:
Ruby
SHO
Box of Rock
Tremulus Lune
Orange Squeezer
Fuzz Face (don't know which one though, probably a modded one)
Hysteresis oscillator
Phase 90 (if I can squeeze it in)
And I'd love a delay, but most schematics are too big to fit in an A enclosure.

Hallo Yorick.
Everything is big in America. Here in Europe we tend to keep things smaller 
I love your  Ruby, especially the speaker where did you get that one, cell phone? Got it together yet?

I have found that if you use jacks meant for PCB (like the ones you used) an cut there legs (se the Little Red Rooster) you will be able to put the PCB on top of the jacks and the pots and have a 60mm X 32mm PCB as long as the components will fall within the height of 11mm from solder side to the top of the component. I will try to build a delay using a PT2399 around the Tonpad Reboat delay 2.5. I think that a Phase 90 actually would be easier if you use a quad Opamp since the hook-up wire tend to be the biggest problem and the P90 has one pot and a delay has 3. I will post all my layouts on my site in DIY creator format.

Good Luck

\\Solderman

Where in Europe are you then?

The Ruby is not finished yet, I'm trying to get it polished, but that takes a lot of time. And time is something I barely have these days.
The speaker came from an old cell phone which I tore to shreds.

My A-size pedals are planned for February or something like that since I'm very busy with pedal orders from friends and my studies, so I just might steal your layout for the delay once it's done 

[1878]

Can we see the guts? What is that switch for btw? I found a pcb layout, but it has 2 pots and no switch.

I removed the volume pot on my build 'cos it only allows you to decrease the volume. I played with it for a while before housing, and I always had the volume at maximum. I'd wanted a very specific effect and this is it. It's VERY choppy. I added the switch after I'd housed and added it to my board. You get quite a loud ticking in bypass mode through a big amp, so I added a simple on/off switch at 9v+. This way, the chip doesn't get any power on the songs I don't use it for.

I'll try and get a photo of it's innards later on. It's built on perfboard and you can't see any of the components, but you can see my sloppy soldering work and almost complete lack of talent in this field.

[Valoosj]

In stead of a switch you could have rewired the stompswitch in a way that the board input is grounded when bypassed. I did this with all my fuzzes and I never hear them bleed through.

[1878]

A few people have said that that didn't work for this particular effect, so I never tried to be honest. The build was a bit of a hit and miss thing. I'd do it differently if I built it again. Actually, I've got some old effects linked up to a couple of noise generators (A.P.C etc) and I was thinking of building another HO to use in conjuction with these. I'll try it the way you suggested and if it works, I'll swap them over.

[flo]

With a ticking LFO it does not help to ground the input when bypassed. You need to decouple the power supply to the LFO from the rest of the circuit, with a 100 ohm resistor and a 0.1uF cap, and for instance use a low power opamp in the LFO circuit.

[Valoosj]

A ticking LFO, sounds like my Tremulus Lune... But that can be solved by adding some caps on the lfo opamp.

[1878]

I think that's been tried also. This is a bit of a Marmite effect. You'll either love it or hate it, or rather, you'll put up with the ticking/wont put up with the ticking.

Out of curiosity, where would you put the caps using this layout:

http://www.geocities.com/worthekik/hysteresis.html

I'm gonna build myself another one of these, and I might as well have an experiment with it whilst it's on the desk. I feel the need to give something back after taking so much. I also feel the need to actually learn more rather than just copy.

[Valoosj]

After listening to the clips again, I don't mind the ticking, but I'd hate it if it bleeds through when the pedal is in bypass.
My Tremulus Lune does that at times and it pisses me off. I'm going to look at it again to remove the ticking. It will be quite a while though before I get round to making the hysteresis, so good luck testing. As for adding a cap, why not on the solder side? I've done that before and when it's only one component it doesn't really matter much.

[earthtonesaudio]

I wonder if that circuit would tolerate having the stomp switch also turn power on and off...?