Show me your 1590A enclosures/pedals...

[earthtonesaudio]

Tinning helps because it turns liquid.  A dry soldering iron tip makes very little contact with the parts, but if the tip and the parts are bathed in liquid solder and flux...

[Ronan]

It is not uncommon to use clear acrylic lacquer as a conformal coating, this is easily soldered through, but also protects the PCB and components from oxidation. For PCB's with no solder mask, it as an excellent idea. Open the pedal up in 5 years time and it will still look like you soldered it up a week ago.

[rocklander]

The thermal conductivety of copper (think high end cooking pots & pans) is many, many times greater then that of either lead or tin so i'll stick with my assumption that tinning mainly serves as a preventative to copper oxidization.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html

Like azrael, i frequently clean my iron tip and can't say i've ever noticed any gumming up as a result of the lacquer, the lacquer appears to pretty much vaporize on contact with the iron, something else to breath in.

As to lacquer helping the soldering, again it's just another measure to prevent oxidization (and looks cool) so yes it should be helping long as it's applied soon after the copper is cleaned, before the copper has much chance to oxidize. (Again my assumptions).

dave

this clear lacquer idea is a complete revelation for me.. thank so much for it.. would have never thought of that.
I live in a pretty high sulphur area, and if I etch a board and leave it a couple of weeks before I get around to populating it (or worse, half populate it, then come back to it a couple weeks later, so scrubbing it is difficult), I can have some trouble with the residue on the copper pads...  I'll be trying this

[deadastronaut]

i usually spray clear on the pcb after ive tested the populated board...but i may give this a go, and see how it smells goes..

[azrael]

Not quite done, but I thought I'd show off one of the "masked" PCBs wired up.



Ran out of 3mm LEDs...doh!

[OrionManMatt]

Maybe I've missed it, but I've been looking for a 1590a size layout for a tubescreamer. I tried searching but it's a needle in a haystack!

I can't wait to try out building the squeezer in that size, by the way!

[azrael]

^Check out RunOffGroove's Tube Reamer, I was able to get it into a 1590A.




i thought a flat finish was better for the mini mustache pi

[Dr.maligno]

[rocklander]

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/DrMalignoTech/5ee86922.jpg

ha! I've just been working on one of these..

[edit]
how are you getting the white trim around the lettering/graphics?
[/edit]

[ORK]

Nice, bar the washer!

[Dr.maligno]

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/DrMalignoTech/5ee86922.jpg

ha! I've just been working on one of these..

[edit]
how are you getting the white trim around the lettering/graphics?
[/edit]

With white water decal

[rocklander]

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/DrMalignoTech/5ee86922.jpg

ha! I've just been working on one of these..

[edit]
how are you getting the white trim around the lettering/graphics?
[/edit]

With white water decal

thank you sir... will have a crack with this stuff too then :thumbsup:

[Dr.maligno]

The matter is match the stompbox color with the decal base color. It's needed to do some tryings before do the final transfer.

[guitarmageddon]

A couple of FET boosters.

[Taylor]

Those are awesome! Was going to make some pun on "etch" and "Escher" but I'll refrain.

[Earthscum]

Um... Nice Eschings? 

I did the light through the hole trick on my Bazz Fuss, but I used a large knob and tried to shine the light from underneath. Fail, lol... yours look pretty kewl, though! I dig!

[rocklander]

finally finished my 1590a board
probably going to change a couple of them: the pikelet (hotcake) for a zendrive when I've done it) and the bsiabII if it doesn't sound 'right' in my main amp (yet to try it, but into the ruby it was just not gainy enough, so will do a crunchbox instead), and am attempting to do a ross phaser using smd lm13600 chips.. will see how that pans out)


it's (right to left, in to out):
picoEQ (mad professor sea blue eq)->pikelet (hotcake)->top jimmy (bsiabII)->dr boogey->puddleduck delay (mad proff deep blue delay)->ROG tri-vibe->pulse canon (heartthrob tremolo)->zombie chorus


comparison to my main gigging board.. stage room saved!


bypass to tuner


black powerboard for stage hiddennessness


inpub/output jacks


guts-wiring to DC and signal paths including a buffer from the the bajaman black toast


standard laptop PSU (round 20VDC) and a filter to 3X regulated filtered (but common earth) 9V output jacks.. if the PSU ever dies, I can just wired in another .. anything up to 30V.. easy replacement programme :-)

[tubelectron]

Good job ! and very good PSU idea :

standard laptop PSU (round 20VDC) and a filter to 3X regulated filtered (but common earth) 9V output jacks.. if the PSU ever dies, I can just wired in another .. anything up to 30V.. easy replacement programme :-)

Indeed !

A+!

[Dr.maligno]

finally finished my 1590a board
probably going to change a couple of them: the pikelet (hotcake) for a zendrive when I've done it) and the bsiabII if it doesn't sound 'right' in my main amp (yet to try it, but into the ruby it was just not gainy enough, so will do a crunchbox instead), and am attempting to do a ross phaser using smd lm13600 chips.. will see how that pans out)


it's (right to left, in to out):
picoEQ (mad professor sea blue eq)->pikelet (hotcake)->top jimmy (bsiabII)->dr boogey->puddleduck delay (mad proff deep blue delay)->ROG tri-vibe->pulse canon (heartthrob tremolo)->zombie chorus


comparison to my main gigging board.. stage room saved!


bypass to tuner


black powerboard for stage hiddennessness


inpub/output jacks


guts-wiring to DC and signal paths including a buffer from the the bajaman black toast


standard laptop PSU (round 20VDC) and a filter to 3X regulated filtered (but common earth) 9V output jacks.. if the PSU ever dies, I can just wired in another .. anything up to 30V.. easy replacement programme :-)

O feel in blue with your nano board rocklander

[rocklander]

The matter is match the stompbox color with the decal base color. It's needed to do some tryings before do the final transfer.

I just now understood what you meant by this. I thought you'd gone and used a sharp knife to trim close to the edges of the letters.. thought you'd had some crazy patience to do that, but now I get it.. there's a base colour under the graphics which matches the pedal colour.. ugh.. I only have a monochrome printer :-(. ah well.. I might just make some anyway, but with 'joined' kind of letters and a white outline.. cut round them.