Swirl finishes, "Dragonfly style !" (56k warning for pictures !)

[Dragonfly]

I do a lot of scale model building so I've tried a lot of different paint brands, techniques, etc.  If you guys plan on doing this on a regular basis, I made a holder for painting car bodies.  Take a piece of wood and drill four holes about the diameter of metal coat hangers into it that are just slightly smaller than the size of your boxes.  Drill the holes at a slight angle outward.  Then, take an old metal coat hanger (or two of them) and cut it into 4 equal lengths (about 3 to 4 inches) and bend small 90 degree hooks into the end of them.  Place the wires into the holes with the hook ends facing outwards.  You can now slip your box around the ends of the coat hangers and the bent ends will help it grip the inside of the box.  I'll try and take a picture later of the one that I made.

As far as mixing paint types, yeah, you have to be careful.  I've had really good luck with using Duplicolor clear over lacquer and acrylics (do not use it over enamels).  Just make sure to spray several light coats and not one heavy coat.

.....and sorry.  I don't want to make folks think I'm trying to come across as a know it all or anything.  Just trying to pass some info along of stuff I've learned.

Good info ! The Dupli is a good tip...it dries nice and hard, yet crystal clear.

You would get along great with my brother...he's into scale model cars as well ! He's awesome at it...does all the wiring, custom metal work, etc. !

[modsquad]

I am still not sure if this process would work for my guitar.  Any ideas on how to do the back of the guitar so it flows into the top and sides.   I guess you could do the back the base color.   

A tip I thought of would be to use wax paper over the cardboard to keep anything but paint from sticking to the enclosure.

[mfergel]

I am still not sure if this process would work for my guitar.  Any ideas on how to do the back of the guitar so it flows into the top and sides.   I guess you could do the back the base color.   

A tip I thought of would be to use wax paper over the cardboard to keep anything but paint from sticking to the enclosure.

Would really depend on the guitar.  If the guitar has binding, you could tape off at the binding and do the bottom first and then the top later.  If the guitar has a hard edge, like a Jackson/Ibanez style strat, I'd probably tape off the back edge and do the top and sides and then follow up later with the back.  A Fender strat is going to be a bit tougher as there would be no hard edge.  I would maybe do the back side, let it run and come back later and sand off any mess that hit the top, sand lightly on the sides (not to sand it off though) and then blend any run of from the top into the sides.  Obvioulsy some guitar bodies are going to be harder than others.

Also, if you are going to do something like a large guitar body (or even the pedal enclosures), you might want to look into some extender.  I don't have my bottle in front of me, but it's a product that can be added to water based acrylics that can increase the drying time.  If you try to do a whole guitar body, this will probably be a must as the paint will start drying before you get a chance to blend all the paint in.  I get mine at a craft store (Michael's).  It's in the paint section with the oil paints/brushes.    I'll have to look as there are some other similar products available.

Dragonfly, your brother and I probably would get along.  I used to compete quite a bit and have boxes of trophies.  Used to have a fairly successful scale modeling website and did some work building display items for Polar Lights.  I kind of got burnt out on it a little bit and still have about 500+ unbuilt models.  It got to overwhelming so I got back into playing guitar again.

Totally unrelated to FX pedal photos <grin>

[mfergel]

One other thought about a body like a fender with a rounded edge body.  If you do the back and sides, then lightly sand the sides so that you have a feathered edge about mid point, you could then spray the back and sides with a couple of light coats of duplicolor clear (or any acrylic lacquer clear).  Then do the top and sides.  Now, you could take a water based thinner, such as Windex, denatured alcohol, etc and wipe any excess that might have dripped onto the back and bottom edge of the sides and then lightly feather in the side with a fine grained sandpaper (800 grit or higher).  The lacquer will act as a barrier coat for the back and sides so that the work you then do on the top doesn't ruin it.  If you aren't happy with the top, you could litterally wipe the top off without ruining what you had done on the back/sides.

[Dragonfly]

Dragonfly, your brother and I probably would get along.  I used to compete quite a bit and have boxes of trophies.  Used to have a fairly successful scale modeling website and did some work building display items for Polar Lights.  I kind of got burnt out on it a little bit and still have about 500+ unbuilt models.  It got to overwhelming so I got back into playing guitar again.

The others are awesome, but I REALLY dig this one !

You and my brother are in the same boat....he has a full walk in closet of unbuilt models, but rarely has time for them these days. Lately he's been using what little time he has to pursue his other passion...model railroading.

[mfergel]

Railroading..........from what I hear, that's an even bigger disease. 

[Dragonfly]

Railroading..........from what I hear, that's an even bigger disease. 

[modsquad]

oooh great idea.  I have a strat body unfortunately.   But I like the feathering idea on the side because the side isn't seen as readily as the back and front.   So you can spray lacquer over Acrylic without it melting down and crackling? 

[mfergel]

oooh great idea.  I have a strat body unfortunately.   But I like the feathering idea on the side because the side isn't seen as readily as the back and front.   So you can spray lacquer over Acrylic without it melting down and crackling? 

Yeah but use light coats.  Don't try to get complete and total coverage on your first pass.  Do a couple of misting type passes first.  Also, there are slight differences in paints so while this might work over one type of acrylic, it may not work over another.  Always test to make sure your products are compatible.  I've really had the best luck with Duplicolor clear.  I'd really recommend against using Krylon and Rustoleum.  They used to be pretty good products, but at some point, their formulas changed and they crack over time, especially the Krylon.

Acrylics are actually used in the automotive world quite a bit for custom airbrushed graphics and then clear coated with a two-part polyurethane clear.

FYI, another clear coat alternative is Future/Johnsons floor polish.  This is actually just a clear acrylic type paint.  The durability isn't quite up there with an acrylic lacquer or enamel, but it can be applied with a brush and levels really well plus you can just reclear over the top every few weeks/months.  It's used in scale modeling quite a bit as a clear coat prior to applying decals.

[modsquad]

I used to build WWII Aircraft models with weathering and detailing so I was aware of the floor wax and such for decals.   However, I always used enamels because at the time the acrylics didn't have a lot of the German camo schemes.  That's why I'm not as familiar with using acrylics.   I just worry about durability as Enamels are pretty indestructible.  Of course I used to use MEK too.   Explains the ear in my belly button.

Well off to strip the body and try things out.   I do like the thought of being able to quickly undo and try again with acrylics.

[jmdfd415]

Ok i just finished with the clear coat on my big muff so here it is






Im really happy with the way this one turned out.  Now I cant wait to do another 
edit: I just noticed that the flash on my camera gives it an orange color on a couple of the side pictures.  Its actually a nice red like on the first pic all the way through.

[Dragonfly]

Ok i just finished with the clear coat on my big muff so here it is



Im really happy with the way this one turned out.  Now I cant wait to do another 
edit: I just noticed that the flash on my camera gives it an orange color on a couple of the side pictures.  Its actually a nice red like on the first pic all the way through.

BEAUTIFUL !

Really a GREAT looking finish !

[ambulancevoice]

the big muff pi never looked better!!!!

[sixstringphil]

I've never painted anyting with acrylic paint before, so everything may be normal, but...
I've had my box drying for 2 days now. (overnight with a lamp the first night) It's dry, but still very soft, almost tacky. Is this normal and should I proceed to clear coat, or is this a result of the rainy weather and should I wait for a little less humidity to let it cure more?

[foxfire]

i think i'm have the same problem, well sort of. my paint dried fine but i'm getting fish eyes/dimples in my clear coat. it's been raining for the last few days and i suck at waiting.

[Dragonfly]

Using the lamp method, mine dries in 1-2 hours, no problem...then I start clear coating. DONT bake the clear acrylic coat under a lamp however.

Acrylic clear coat stays a little soft for a couple days...paint the box, clear coat it, let it sit....

[John Lyons]

Getting a used/cheap toaster oven from the thrift store etc is a good idea. You get more even heat and you can vary the temp.
This will help with humidity.
Just set it so you get about 80-100 degrees (usually the lowest temp).
I usually prop the oven door open so the solvents/water can escape and you get a little air flow...
This works for any type paint. Saves a lot of waiting. Resist the urge to crank up the temp though,
that's where you get into bubling and cracking. You're just looking to get rid of humidity and warm things up a bit.

Do not use an oven that you will ever cook food in again.

John

[joegagan]

great thread!

thanks andy, awesome topic.

[Spikee12345678]

I also tried to do a swirlpaintjob and I must I'm very happy about the result
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5288/dsc00185py8.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7716/dsc00188vr5.jpg

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/6407/dsc00187vi7.jpg

[foxfire]

I also tried to do a swirlpaintjob and I must I'm very happy about the result
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/5288/dsc00185py8.jpg
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7716/dsc00188vr5.jpg

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/6407/dsc00187vi7.jpg

wow! that one almost hurts my eyes, in a good way of course.