Bass Balls broke

[stompbox steve]

Hi, I have tried to rewire a EHX BB reissue for True Bypass and now, "painted myself in a corner"
I have searched all the past threads on the many mods for it and as a result confused myself.
I am not great/good at pedal fix'in - so help is much appreciated.

here is a link of very useful info but a little over my head: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=61933.0
Does anyone have a drawing of where the wires go from the board to a newly mounted 3PDT with LED?

Here is the link to Topopiccione's site

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://topopiccione.atspace.com/pjimages/EHBassBalls.lay.gif&imgrefurl=http://topopiccione.atspace.com/PJ08EHBassBalls.html&h=746&w=730&sz=49&hl=en&start=7&um=1&tbnid=oZvB1_RCfFXpWM:&tbnh=141&tbnw=138&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbassballs%2Bboard%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:*:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7DKUS%26sa%3DN

Once I get that thing working/bypassed I can add my Volume pot before the output to help tame it.

Again, Thanks to anyone that can visually help, Steve

[stompbox steve]

alright does this help.  I have number the wires so can someone tell me where they go?
1 =
2 =
3 =
4=
5 =
6 =
7 =
8 =
9=
10 =

I know someone know, please.
I am trying to post the image, hopefully it works.
C:\Users\SteveP laptop\Desktop\100_8146 a.jpg
Thanks, Steve

[Timebutt]

There are lots of ways to wire up a 3PDT switch correctly, so the description below is just 'one way to do it' (as it happens the way I like to do it ).
I'm assuming the number 1,2 and 3 form the first row etc. so that the lugs are aligned horizontally.

So:
1 = effect in
2 = to current limiting resistor for the LED
3 = effect out
4= input jack tip
5 = 9v +
6 = output jack tip
7 = to lug 9
8 = left empty
9= to lug 7
(10 = doesn't exist but could prove damn handy sometimes )

There was a pretty picture at Banzai showing how to wire them up as well but it seems to have gone 404 on me, maybe it'll pop back up and I'll post it here.
The more of these switches you wire the easier it goes, believe me
Good luck!

[stompbox steve]

I appreciate the reply.  I am familiar with how to wire the switch IF i know which wires are what, being there are 10 wires coming off of the board that I have now mixed up.  I am not able to identify them.  here is the link.

http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/stompboxsteve2112/?action=view&current=100_8146a.jpg

Also I put a switch in the picture so if someone could say
EX: wire 1 = to lug A

I also included a shot of my pedal board
Thanks, Steve

[Timebutt]

Ah sorry, must have misread like I always do
Well, I've searched around for the bassballs schematic (http://www.y3m.net/images/bassballs/bbschem.gif here's one for sure but I'm sure better schems are around), and all I can say is start from there. I had a similar problem with my Big Muff (circuit board is a lot alike in looks and how they arrange wires and such): I forgot where every wire was supposed to go.
So what I did was take a page, write numbers for all the wires and then used my multimeter to determine where in the schematic the wire was connected to. (for instance: wire nr x leads to a y ohm resistor, and given the fact that there is only one y ohm resistor in the schematic it has to be connected there, then just find out if it's an input wire, output, if it goes to a pot lug, ...). If you write all of this down you won't forget it (I started off without, not good ) and be able to tell which wire does what, and all there is left to do is wire up the switch!

That's why it's a bit hard to say number 1 on your picture goes to that lug. I do know they use the outer numbers for things like ground, 9v+, input, ... while the inner wires are usually for pots and switches.
Hope this helps a bit?

[stompbox steve]

TB
That is a good way of figuring it out.  On the schmatic it has letters "A-H".  Did you add them to show the switch wiring? or where they there?
Do they align with the switch drawing I added?  If so that is a big help.  Thanks, Steve

[bonkdav]

Sorry to butt in...but could you please tell  me the value of the cap on the very top of the board in your picture.  its along the top edge straight right of the red 1.  And if your feeling really generous could you take some measurements of the two trimpots. I have one that kinda works but needs some tweeking. i got it unhoused and some parts missing and im trying to kick it back into shape.  the trimpots arent a big deal though. ill get those in by ear if need be.

Thanks
Davis

[stompbox steve]

well Davis
Looking at the schematic, I see 10K.  measuring the trimpots 4.4 ?  That can't be right, so I would say 10K
I hope that helps

[bonkdav]

i didnt see you posted the schematic 

[slacker]

What was originally on the end of the 10 wires you disconnected? What sort of switch did it use and did it have LED?
I'm only asking because if your version is the same as the schematics then there would only be 3 wires needed for the switching.

I also don't think you'll be able to rewire it for true bypass just by changing the switch because the in and out jacks seem to be mounted on the board. You'll probably have to remove those or cut some of the traces to make it true bypass.
Might be better to put it back how it was if you can.

[stompbox steve]

 I did cut/lift the signal lug for the input and figured some tiddling would be needed.  So part of me says, Yes at this point, I would be happy in getting it back to normal but if I need to rewire anyways, then I would prefer to do it right, if I can get the help. Otherwise I will look to convert back to normal.   

Wires went to the Sensitivity, Fuzz toggle, I believe it was a DPDT, 6 lugs, but not 100% sure.  I have added the picture of the whole mess. 
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y229/stompboxsteve2112/?action=view&current=100_8145.jpg

maybe this will shed some light, thnx