Just replace to 3PDT's and they all pop !

[Gil]

This is crazy. I just replaced all DPDT's to 3PDT's and ditched the millennium circuits,
and I now find that they all make pop noises when switched !! As if I did nothing really !!

What's the deal ??!

[Gil]

Well, I didn't know that there still should be some kind of circuit to eliminate this, when 3PDTs are used.... 

Should the second scheme work or should I go for the third one anyway ?

http://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm

[reverofratiug]

Unfortunately that is an "inconvenient truth"...  at least for me. I used to put 3PDT on every pedal i make until i find DPDT + millenium makes less popping. I tried that circuit from AMZ... No sucess! So, from now on i use DPDT

[mdh]

What kind of LED are you using, and how big of a current limiting resistor?  Maybe you could do better by using a high brightness LED and a bigger resistor, on the rationale that less current = less pop.

[R.G.]

This is crazy. I just replaced all DPDT's to 3PDT's and ditched the millennium circuits,
and I now find that they all make pop noises when switched !! As if I did nothing really !!

What's the deal ??!

You *did* do nothing. Properly set up and wired Millenium bypass circuits do not pop. They're designed not to, and by experience don't.

That means there was another source of popping that had nothing to do with the Millenium circuits and the changes you made did nothing to change that.

It's not crazy at all. It's Mother Nature telling you that the Millenium Bypass circuits were not the cause of your popping.

Just to see if I could find anything, I dug through your recent posts on your pedals. I think you're having wiring problems unrelated to the bypass switching.

[Gil]

R.G - the millennium worked fine. The problem was that I initially used DPDT's that are not designed for audio circuits,
and which developed bad contacts. I then bought a bunch of 3PDT's and wired them to no-millennium configuration,
because I assumed that they won't do any popping (at least that was the impression I had a while back, from reading various posts).

So now I found that the 3PDT configuration does pop, and that I now have to either set the millennium back and use DPDT configuration, or workaround the 3PDT pop issues.

What do you think about the schematics posted ? Should that generally work ? What are the conclusions about it here on the forum ?

Thanks !

[darron]

this gets covered heaps. the good 3pdts generally for me don't really pop, though they have the potential if not used right. i haven't ever had a need to use the amz pop limiter. i use high intensity leds with a fairly high value (56k or so) current limiting resistor. i even made a tremolo recently where the 3pdt disconnected the power to the whole LFO unit and it had no problem. i had a 470uf filter cap on the circuit supply though....

the only time that i get pop is when i don't use the pull down resistors at the front and back of the circuit. it can be pretty loud and annoying, as though you've momentarily touched the tip of the jack for a ms. they are there to discharge the input/output coupling caps at the front of most circuits, since those caps are left floating and not tied to anything while the circuit is in bypass mode. so on the input and output of the circuit put a 1m or 2m2 resistor going to ground. this is a high enough value to not effect your tone at all, and low enough to tie down the caps. i actually avoid the resistor at the front of the circuit and just ground the input as it seems a better practice.

there's an example here, not showing the pull down resistor though:
http://www.dazatronyx.com/support/true-bypass-technique.pdf

having said all of that, 3pdt's aren't perfectly quiet. turned right up you can hear something. generally if you are playing while you switch you don't hear any delay, or any noise, and it's very good for stage use. 3pdt true bypass is definitely my choice.

i'll try to make updates to that article to include the pulldown resistor at some point.

edit: use figure B at the bottom of that pdf.

[Gil]

So I guess ditching the pull resistor is the issue here 

I'll get them back first and see what coming up. Thanks !

[Paul Marossy]

So I guess ditching the pull resistor is the issue here 

I'll get them back first and see what coming up. Thanks !

Probably so. 

[cpnyc23]

i'll try to make updates to that article to include the pulldown resistor at some point.

edit: use figure B at the bottom of that pdf.

Darron - I have a question about that pdf.  the part circled in orange shows the connection going from the bottom row middle lug to the lug on the right & then up to the middle row  far right lug.
Is that connection running thru all three lugs  or does it pass over the bottom right lug?

Does that make any sense?  Sorry if it is gibberish, i'm a little off my game today.

thanks!
-chris

[cpnyc23]

Nevermind.  I answered that one myself.

Amazing how that crazy search feature actually works!   

-chris

[darron]

yeah. it's not something that i see other people do. i was wondering if there was a reason not to do it until analog mike stepped in on one discussion and said he does did the same thing, which made me feel pretty cool! i guess it's just not something that people considered.

[Gil]

I dunno. Well, I tried both the millennium+DPDT, in and out pull down resistors with 3PDTs, the second schematics on the page (http://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm),
still two pedals of my all 10 which are actually in work, no pop free.

The two are the Orange Squeezer and Small Stone.

[darron]

do you still get the pop if you don't use the led part of the switch?

it may not help, but have you tried putting a power filtering capacitor on the pedals? i noticed the orange squeezer schematic doesn't seem to have a filter. try anything from 100uf to 2200uf across between + and - on the pedals with the problems if you have a capacitor on-hand.

[Gil]

The cap across the Squeezer voltage rails does not help. I guess I'll have to put back the millenium2 in there as it poped less than how it pops now.
I usually don't bring the Squeezer in and out rather than using it in the chain or not, so no real problem at this point.

The Small Stone doesn't pop too loudly so I'll keep it like that for now.

Thanks !

[darron]

i'm sorry that it didn't really work out for you. at least you've saved a little bit of interference noise.

[Gil]

I didn't leave the cap in there. I'd rather get, or build an extremely stable powersupply for my DIYs.

Any recommended model, which will let my pedal run ultra-quiet ?

Anything that provides both polarities at the same time ?

Thanks !