Not working.

[BaLaClavaAa]

I have to go , but I just wanted to start this really quickly. So I am building the dallas rangemaster with this http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/DRAGONFLY-LAYOUTS_0/album14/album143/DALLAS_RANGEMASTER_001.jpg.html

Nothing is working not even the bypass. I think everything is wired correctly so is this most likly a broken solder somewhere. I've got to go, but I'll post more info later.l

[krhnyc]

Check to see that there isn't something touching ground that should not be. The reason I suggest this is that you say even the bypass is no sound. That indicates to me that the signal is shorted to ground, probably one of the jacks. I recently built a wah wah that worked fine unless I tried to screw on the bottom, then nothing... not even in bypass. I simply rotated the jacks so the bottom was no longer contacting the tip connection on both jacks and, voila! Success. Good luck.

[BaLaClavaAa]

It's bread boarded so I don't think anything like that is touching, but I will check. I'll be back tomorrow, it's too late to plug my amp on =[.

[BaLaClavaAa]

It's bread boarded right now and this is how it is laid out, as my breadboard is a bit funny looking. Can someone spot out if there is anything wrong.

Also I just realize what krhnyc meant, but I don't really know how you check that. I've heard about that happening in cases because of things touching that shouldn't be, but I'm not sure what to do here.

[BaLaClavaAa]

Also when I bought the OC44 from small bear it came with some ratings.

R3: 62K
R5: 4.3K

I'm not sure if this is relevant in any way, but just in case =]

Also Also, although no noise from the guitar comes through, when I turn the pedal on it makes a loud hum in the back ground.

[krhnyc]

It's bread boarded right now and this is how it is laid out, as my breadboard is a bit funny looking. Can someone spot out if there is anything wrong.

Also I just realize what krhnyc meant, but I don't really know how you check that. I've heard about that happening in cases because of things touching that shouldn't be, but I'm not sure what to do here.

Use your VOM set to test continuity and check the signal path. If it is wired for mechanical true bypass, you should see 0ohms of resistance between the tip connections of the input and output. Then check ground (sleeve) connection... it should not register anything on the meter. If it does, you have a ground short. Once you get the bypassed signal passing, switch in the circuit and see where you are at. If it still isn't working... start looking for bad solders, misplace components. etc. It isn't a complex circuit so you could theoretically take all of the components off and start over.

If all else fails, try dead bugging it, ie, glue all of the components on some non-conductive material (cardboard works) and use insulated wire to make your connections. This is a last resort... make sure you don't have bad components before trying this. If you do go this route, use rubber cement... you can remove it later and board it after you get working. You may want to try pad per hole board for this. I find it easier to work than bread board.

[BaLaClavaAa]

I don't have a VOM  , I'll go out and get one tomorow, thanks for the help =]

Is an analog one good enough? They seem to be a bit cheaper haha

[krhnyc]

An analog one is ok, but not as accurate, harder to read. Are you in the US? The meter I use is a CenTech... I got it at Harbor Freight Tools for $3.99 US... works great. Even tests NPN and PNP trannies.

here is the link.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899

For pedals, this is fine... even for tube amps... don't blow money on a fluke. If this thing lasts a year it more than pays for itself.

[anchovie]

Looking at your breadboard in comparison to Dragonfly's layout:

You've got the transistor pin-out completely wrong.
Two lugs of your pot don't actually connect to anything.
Components 7 and 8 are in parallel with two pins of the transistor. This is wrong.

I think you need to take all of the components off the breadboard and start again. Or build the stripboard layout. The resistor values that came with your OC44 are Smallbear's recommendations for replacing the 68k and 3.9k for optimum performance of that individual tested transistor. I also think you should use a 10k pot like the layout states, as 500k is massively different given that it is not simply a volume control and influences the setup of the transistor.

Good luck!

[BaLaClavaAa]

Oh that would make a big difference haha, thanks, I can fix that real quick. =]

[krhnyc]

Looking at your breadboard in comparison to Dragonfly's layout:

You've got the transistor pin-out completely wrong.
Two lugs of your pot don't actually connect to anything.
Components 7 and 8 are in parallel with two pins of the transistor. This is wrong.

I think you need to take all of the components off the breadboard and start again. Or build the stripboard layout. The resistor values that came with your OC44 are Smallbear's recommendations for replacing the 68k and 3.9k for optimum performance of that individual tested transistor. I also think you should use a 10k pot like the layout states, as 500k is massively different given that it is not simply a volume control and influences the setup of the transistor.

Good luck!

Good catch, and while it is true, this would still not account from why you pass no signal at bypass. You still need to ascertain where the signal stop. Until you get the bypass working, there isn't much point in trying to get the circuit to pass signal.

[R.G.]

Also be aware that breadboards wear out. The inner spring contacts get worn, dirty, and lose tension after a while.

It is important to consider them to be expendables, not permanent tools. Get a new one when you start having intermittents. Or at least mark bad holes with a sharpie so you won't use it again.

[BaLaClavaAa]

Ok so I went to the shops, but they were out of multi meters so I'm going to order that one you recommended.

Here is my new layout.



I can't check it with my amp yet, but I will as soon as I can. I realized that before I had the 2 top right wires on the switch
mixed around, so could this account for the bypass.

Also the breadboard was bought like a week ago, and I've only built one pedal, so I appreciate your patience with me =]. I realize that those were some pretty big mistakes on my last one layout  .


Does this look better? Thanks for your help =]

[BaLaClavaAa]

Ok, now it sort of works. When the volume is really really loud I can sort of hear it. When I turn the pedal on I can't hear it any more.

[petemoore]

  Not that they go bad that much, but for reference, 2 cheep DMMs is nice...there's been a few times where I had to grab the other one to see why what's up with the one.
 

[aron]

I have no idea what your pic shows as far as the jacks. How are the vertical dots connected in your pic? Can you take a picture of your actual breadboard and jacks?

[BaLaClavaAa]

I have no idea what your pic shows as far as the jacks. How are the vertical dots connected in your pic? Can you take a picture of your actual breadboard and jacks?

Um I need to find a camera, but it goes on the left stereo and right mono. Goes Tip, Ring, Sleeve, Sleeve, Tip in the order of the slanted lines from left to right. If that is what you mean, when I find a camera I'll take a pic. Also the red lines represent which dots are connected.

Oh if you meant because of the weird connections, it's because there are side strips of dots, so I am using those to connect the jacks to stuff so I can avoid soldering them to the dpdt and battery snaps.

[anchovie]

Good catch, and while it is true, this would still not account from why you pass no signal at bypass. You still need to ascertain where the signal stop. Until you get the bypass working, there isn't much point in trying to get the circuit to pass signal.

It's a positive-ground circuit, so my hunch was that if the components were connected up incorrectly, it might be possible for even the bypass signal to get sent in the wrong direction.

[anchovie]

Ok, now it sort of works. When the volume is really really loud I can sort of hear it. When I turn the pedal on I can't hear it any more.

Connect the two jack sleeves directly together, with no connection to the breadboard. Connect the two tips directly to the DPDT switch as well. Your bypass signal will then have nothing to do with the breadboard at all, and you can check that it passes the clean signal correctly. Once that's confirmed, run a wire from one of the two linked sleeves to the bottom row of your breadboard for the ground connection and you can start debugging the active circuit.

[George Giblet]

> Also be aware that breadboards wear out. Th

Wishboard brand is great, much more reliable than others.  Don't know if they are still made.