Light Emitting Border tutorial

tasos · November 05, 2010, 04:53:52 AM

any hardware store will probably havE!

~arph · November 05, 2010, 05:04:13 AM

Nah I always found the screw sizes tricky, they are in inches, not mm. So in europe it's a bit harder. There is also a difference between the screws in a B and a BB.

tasos · November 05, 2010, 05:38:51 AM

i am sure you will find something out!try skateboard screws!the come in pack of 8 to hold the trucks the metal part and the board together...

deadastronaut · November 05, 2010, 05:40:01 AM

i used thin perspex not the thick stuff...no problem with the screws....

and a lot easier to cut n file...much quicker too...

i got my perspex from a pound shop, just bought a couple of cheap picture frames...thin thin thin...

amptramp · November 05, 2010, 02:57:16 PM

Quote from: ~arph on November 05, 2010, 05:04:13 AM
Nah I always found the screw sizes tricky, they are in inches, not mm. So in europe it's a bit harder. There is also a difference between the screws in a B and a BB.

The Hammond 1550 has stainless metric screws whereas the 1590 has 6-32 North American standard screws. Now if we could get metric stainless easily...

~arph · November 06, 2010, 05:12:25 AM

Haha it's the north american standard size that is difficult to get for me

pjohns0 · September 08, 2011, 11:09:29 AM

Would it be possible to use an LED border when using Millenium 1 switching?

Renegadrian · September 08, 2011, 11:42:41 AM

Millenium 1 is used to drive the LED on and off - why shouldn't it work?! I made mine using the millenium 2.
After all, it's just the LED not in its bezel but in the plexi!

deadastronaut · September 08, 2011, 12:02:33 PM

^ yep!..

i just had an led wired to the 9v socket, on all the time...and an on/off led...i never use batts though...

pjohns0 · September 08, 2011, 12:38:08 PM

Sorry, Renegadrian. I wasn't all that clear in my question. I would want to incorporate 2 LEDs, one On/Off LED on the top of the enclosure as normal and also one on/off LED on the light border.
Not sure if I can draw the current of two LEDs and use the Millenium 1 bypass?

rockhorst · September 12, 2011, 06:09:40 AM

Just noticed: there are now prefab light emitting borders on sale in Arons store! Does anybody know if it is still necessary to sand/file down the aluminum rim? I suspect so, which would be a pity (that's what kept me from doing it so far). Either way, cool product still!

deadastronaut · September 12, 2011, 06:28:33 AM

^ nope you don't have too...it sits on it by the looks of it....

The Tone God · September 13, 2011, 01:38:07 AM

Quote from: rockhorst on September 12, 2011, 06:09:40 AM
Just noticed: there are now prefab light emitting borders on sale in Arons store! Does anybody know if it is still necessary to sand/file down the aluminum rim? I suspect so, which would be a pity (that's what kept me from doing it so far). Either way, cool product still!

No you do not have to modify the case in anyway. The plates have a channel that the rim fits into so there is no need to remove the rim.

Andrew

rockhorst · September 13, 2011, 02:16:26 AM

Ubersweet!

iPop · September 18, 2011, 11:13:36 AM

wow cool stuff!!:D

but i have a question

: i'm new on diy and i don't know how and where to connect the second led; i mean: can i connect it directly to the switch? or is it better to connect in parallel with the other led? does the parallel connection need any change of the resistor's value?

thank you for helping me

bye,
Francesco

tasos · September 18, 2011, 11:49:37 AM

Quote from: iPop on September 18, 2011, 11:13:36 AM
wow cool stuff!!:D

but i have a question : i'm new on diy and i don't know how and where to connect the second led; i mean: can i connect it directly to the switch? or is it better to connect in parallel with the other led? does the parallel connection need any change of the resistor's value?

thank you for helping me

bye,
Francesco

You will have to use two leds and two resistors
This is what you need

->resistor->led->ground
9v
->resistor->led->ground

iPop · September 19, 2011, 06:47:46 AM

well thank you!!

i have another question: has anyone tried different thickness of plexiglass? what is the best?

thank you again

deadastronaut · September 19, 2011, 06:53:14 AM

ive used much thinner stuff, easier to work with etc...no screw depth problems either...

from cheapo pound shop picture frames...

http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry?feature=mhum#p/u/21/cfoSck073gU

Gordo · September 19, 2011, 01:23:39 PM

Quick note on the premade ones. I ordered a B and BB sized one to see what they looked like. I thought they were kinda pricey but got a couple anyway. I got them a few days ago and I take back the pricey bit. These are really nicely made with a routed slot for the bottom plate and even the TTG logo lasered into the plastic. The only thing you have to do is drill the mounting holes (new screws are provided) and any hole(s) necessary for LED(s).

Very nice.

sewage666 · November 28, 2011, 12:19:10 PM

Lurking on this one for awhile. My first work was to take my old Phase 90 and add the border so I wouldn't have to drill the box (though someone else had already drilled the back for power)...

My friend liked that so much, he wanted me to add lights to his precious HM-2.

In trade, I'm getting his old iPhone 4. So, thanks for a mil, or maybe $200, for the idea!

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Light Emitting Border tutorial