Difference between swithced and non switched 1/4" jacks?

[notam]

Whats the difference between these, and which one do I want to use for pedals?

Thanks

[plankspank]

Normally, you would use 1 of each on a pedal: switched for the input jack, to switch on the battery when a cable is plugged in, and non switched on the output jack.

[GREEN FUZ]

It`s not quite as simple as that. Switched jacks offer a number of additional wiring possibilities.

For effects pedals a stereo unswitched jack for the input and a mono unswitched for the output is most common.

[fogwolf]

Anyone have a link to any information on how to wire up a switched jack exactly? Been unable to find anything online.

Also, a Mouser part number? I'm talking about the kind that Craig Anderton mentions in Electronic Projects For Musicians (and the kind it sounds like you're talking about here). When I do a search at Mouser none of them look quite right and I'd like to be able to know I'm getting the right part.

Thanks.

It`s not quite as simple as that. Switched jacks offer a number of additional wiring possibilities.

For effects pedals a stereo unswitched jack for the input and a mono unswitched for the output is most common.

[armstrom]

I feel switched jacks are not the best idea for stomp boxes. Especially if you're new to building your own stuff... You don't need a switched jack for a stomp box 99% of the time.  As others have suggested you SHOULD use a stereo jack for the input as that will act as a type of "switch" to turn on your pedal (note: This does not make use of the switching mechanism provided by switched jacks, it's simply a hack to switch the ground by shorting out two pins with the barrel of the 1/4" plug).

A switched jack is useful when you want to disconnect a section of a circuit when something is plugged in to the jack. A good example is a line-out jack on a combo amp. Using a switched jack the output signal usually flows through the switch in the jack and out to the speaker in the amp cabinet. If you plug a cable into the line-out jack the switch opens (breaking the connection to the internal speaker) and routing the amplified signal out through the cable and (presumably) into a passive cabinet.

There are lots of other uses as well... input/output on effects loops, switching between multiple inputs, etc...


Why should you avoid them if you're a new DIY'er? Simple, if you solder to the wrong set of pins your pedal won't work. Everything will look fine, you'll be able to test all the connections and everything will look great... it just won't work. Until you notice the little switches on the top of the jack foiling your plans (Yes, I speak from experience, this happened to me on my first build!)

Also, the unswitched jacks are cheaper

[fogwolf]

Thanks for all the info! However, you mention:

A switched jack is useful when you want to disconnect a section of a circuit when something is plugged in to the jack.

This is exactly what I want to try to do and would like to know how to do with a switched jack (and which one to get, from Mouser, for example), if anyone could help me with that.

I feel switched jacks are not the best idea for stomp boxes. Especially if you're new to building your own stuff... You don't need a switched jack for a stomp box 99% of the time.  As others have suggested you SHOULD use a stereo jack for the input as that will act as a type of "switch" to turn on your pedal (note: This does not make use of the switching mechanism provided by switched jacks, it's simply a hack to switch the ground by shorting out two pins with the barrel of the 1/4" plug).

A switched jack is useful when you want to disconnect a section of a circuit when something is plugged in to the jack. A good example is a line-out jack on a combo amp. Using a switched jack the output signal usually flows through the switch in the jack and out to the speaker in the amp cabinet. If you plug a cable into the line-out jack the switch opens (breaking the connection to the internal speaker) and routing the amplified signal out through the cable and (presumably) into a passive cabinet.

There are lots of other uses as well... input/output on effects loops, switching between multiple inputs, etc...


Why should you avoid them if you're a new DIY'er? Simple, if you solder to the wrong set of pins your pedal won't work. Everything will look fine, you'll be able to test all the connections and everything will look great... it just won't work. Until you notice the little switches on the top of the jack foiling your plans (Yes, I speak from experience, this happened to me on my first build!)

Also, the unswitched jacks are cheaper

[armstrom]

Ah, ok. Here's an example:

In this configuration the output of your power amp is flowing through the jack to the speaker built in to the cabinet.


Here's what happens when you plug a cable into your line-out jack. The switches connecting each pair of pins open, breaking the connection to the internal speaker. The signal is now routed out through the cable and in to (presumably) a passive speaker cabinet or something.


Switched jacks are also useful for adding support for an external effects loop. If you wire two jacks together the signal will normally pass right through the jacks as though they weren't there, but when you plug in cables to the FX-out and FX-in jacks the direct connection between the jacks is broken and the signal runs out to the external loop (through some pedals/processors, whatever) and then back into the input jack.

Here's a nice big picture showing the type of jacks I'm talking about:
http://www.effectsconnection.com/oscommerce/images/marshallstylestereo%202.jpg

[dano12]

If you want to use the input jack to turn off battery power (as is standard in almost all stompboxes), you can use a 1/4" stereo jack to accomplish this.

The most commonly used jack for this is the Switchcraft #12B (or a clone). Plugging in a 1/4 plug closes the connection between the tip and sleeve lugs. This "switch" is what makes the power on/off switching work:



There is a more thorough explanation here:

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalPower

[fogwolf]

Perfect, thanks!

But I can't find any docs online on how to wire one of these up (how to know which terminals are what) - since it's a closed jack, at least from the photos I've seen online it's not obvious to me. Do you know of any illustrated diagrams of how to do this for a jack like the one you sent the link to?

Also, I'm getting the hang of finding what I need at Mouser but am a still a little overwhelmed/confused sometimes - is this is right kind of jack - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=jCymNF74TgUNxhneV0WIYQ%3d%3d Looking at the data sheet it looks the same as the one you sent a photo of, but again, I'm not sure how it's wired (and I couldn't find anything from searching Google or even on the Neutrik site).

Thanks again.

Ah, ok. Here's an example:

In this configuration the output of your power amp is flowing through the jack to the speaker built in to the cabinet.


Here's what happens when you plug a cable into your line-out jack. The switches connecting each pair of pins open, breaking the connection to the internal speaker. The signal is now routed out through the cable and in to (presumably) a passive speaker cabinet or something.


Switched jacks are also useful for adding support for an external effects loop. If you wire two jacks together the signal will normally pass right through the jacks as though they weren't there, but when you plug in cables to the FX-out and FX-in jacks the direct connection between the jacks is broken and the signal runs out to the external loop (through some pedals/processors, whatever) and then back into the input jack.

Here's a nice big picture showing the type of jacks I'm talking about:
http://www.effectsconnection.com/oscommerce/images/marshallstylestereo%202.jpg

[armstrom]

The nice thing about the marshall style jacks is that it's easy to tell which pin is which (not that the others are terribly difficult). With these jacks the order of the pins front-to-back matches the order they appear on the 1/4" plug. So starting at the front of the jack (closest to the hole where the jack plugs in) the pins are Sleve, Ring (for stereo plugs/jacks), Tip. When in doubt just use your multimeter to determine which pin is which.
Also, when the jack arrives be sure to plug a cable in to see how the switching mechanism works. Then you'll be well aware of which set of pins is disconnected.

Here's a wikipedia entry telling you everything you never wanted to know about the 1/4" TRS plug. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS_connector

[mdh]

But I can't find any docs online on how to wire one of these up (how to know which terminals are what) - since it's a closed jack, at least from the photos I've seen online it's not obvious to me. Do you know of any illustrated diagrams of how to do this for a jack like the one you sent the link to?

If you had the top view of the jack or had it in your hands, it would be pretty obvious which terminals are which.  The way that type works is that the terminals on one side are L-shaped, so that when you plug a cable in, they make contact with the plug, and they lift up, breaking the connections with the other sets of pins.  It may be a little hard to understand from that description, but I guarantee that if you had one in your hands and you plugged something in, you would be able to tell what's going on.

Which brings me to another point.  I don't know how many questions we get on this board about how some particular jack is pinned out, and the truth is, unless you have a data sheet or a physical instance of the part, all you can do is guess based on past experience.  I think the prime directive for newbies around here needs to be, "Learn to use your multi-meter!  Don't have a multi-meter?  Get one, and learn how to use it!"  Sorry if that comes off as snippy, but if you have a meter and know how to use it, you can figure out the most complicated oddball jacks that you can find.

I realize that in this case you don't actually have one of these jacks in your hands, and that the data sheets are often hard to find (though Mouser is great for this; the easiest solution is to get a copy of the print catalog for browsing, and then use the web site to get data sheets), and then hard to interpret.  IIRC, I've seen some that are complete crap -- technical drawings with little or no obvious electrical information.

Edit: scooped by a more concise and less snippy answer!

[fogwolf]

Thanks for both replies, mdh and armstrom.

I do have and do know how to use a multimeter but wasn't sure I could tell which terminals are in the "switched" part of the jack using that. Now that you mention it it does seem that I could see which terminals have continuity with no plug and then which are open with a plug inserted. Another big thing is I didn't want to buy the wrong part (like I said, sometimes Mouser isn't quite clear to me and the datasheets there weren't informative for what I was looking for), but to be fair I have been doing a lot of research and reading on this before I posted.

No offense taken and hope I don't sound snippy myself, just saying I do know how to use a multimeter and I'm all about hands-on learning but need a little patience - I'm still new and not everything is going to click for me right away. I'll also add that everyone has been very patient and so helpful with my questions and I can't tell you how much I appreciate it, just want you to know that I'm trying my best not to just post something without researching it or trying it myself first.

But I can't find any docs online on how to wire one of these up (how to know which terminals are what) - since it's a closed jack, at least from the photos I've seen online it's not obvious to me. Do you know of any illustrated diagrams of how to do this for a jack like the one you sent the link to?

If you had the top view of the jack or had it in your hands, it would be pretty obvious which terminals are which.  The way that type works is that the terminals on one side are L-shaped, so that when you plug a cable in, they make contact with the plug, and they lift up, breaking the connections with the other sets of pins.  It may be a little hard to understand from that description, but I guarantee that if you had one in your hands and you plugged something in, you would be able to tell what's going on.

Which brings me to another point.  I don't know how many questions we get on this board about how some particular jack is pinned out, and the truth is, unless you have a data sheet or a physical instance of the part, all you can do is guess based on past experience.  I think the prime directive for newbies around here needs to be, "Learn to use your multi-meter!  Don't have a multi-meter?  Get one, and learn how to use it!"  Sorry if that comes off as snippy, but if you have a meter and know how to use it, you can figure out the most complicated oddball jacks that you can find.

I realize that in this case you don't actually have one of these jacks in your hands, and that the data sheets are often hard to find (though Mouser is great for this; the easiest solution is to get a copy of the print catalog for browsing, and then use the web site to get data sheets), and then hard to interpret.  IIRC, I've seen some that are complete crap -- technical drawings with little or no obvious electrical information.

Edit: scooped by a more concise and less snippy answer!

[armstrom]

I forgot to mention, the jack you linked to on mouser is designed to be solderd to a PCB (note the thin pin-like terminals). If you plan to mount this to a PCB then that's fine, however if you will be soldering wires to the jack (as I suspect you will) then you want something like this: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=550-12001

This jack has standard solder lugs that will be much easier to solder wires to (and more secure in the long run).

[fogwolf]

That is exactly what I was looking for (and afraid I was looking at one that wasn't quite what I wanted) - thanks!

I forgot to mention, the jack you linked to on mouser is designed to be solderd to a PCB (note the thin pin-like terminals). If you plan to mount this to a PCB then that's fine, however if you will be soldering wires to the jack (as I suspect you will) then you want something like this: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=550-12001

This jack has standard solder lugs that will be much easier to solder wires to (and more secure in the long run).

[fogwolf]

Looking at the data sheet on Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/catalog/634/1093.pdf) it says the 550-12001 isn't switched but looking under the rest of the Nylon Standard 1/4" Jacks table the 550-10201 is switched this table says it has terminal type "PCB" but then it refers you to the jack in illustration A which shows solder type terminals (this is how I get confused by Mouser sometimes). The 550-NMJ6HCS is switched and it says it has solder lugs but not only is it a different style than the 550-12001 and 550-10201 (it has a extra lug or 2) but it looks like from illustration B, which it refers you to for this jack, that it has PCB mounts. Any help clearing this up? Thanks again.

I forgot to mention, the jack you linked to on mouser is designed to be solderd to a PCB (note the thin pin-like terminals). If you plan to mount this to a PCB then that's fine, however if you will be soldering wires to the jack (as I suspect you will) then you want something like this: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=550-12001

This jack has standard solder lugs that will be much easier to solder wires to (and more secure in the long run).

[fogwolf]

Ah, the 550-NMJ6HCS is a switched *stereo* jack. It looks like from that data sheet all the mono switched jacks are PCB mount. They must have a solder lug type mono switched jack.

Looking at the data sheet on Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/catalog/634/1093.pdf) it says the 550-12001 isn't switched but looking under the rest of the Nylon Standard 1/4" Jacks table the 550-10201 is switched this table says it has terminal type "PCB" but then it refers you to the jack in illustration A which shows solder type terminals (this is how I get confused by Mouser sometimes). The 550-NMJ6HCS is switched and it says it has solder lugs but not only is it a different style than the 550-12001 and 550-10201 (it has a extra lug or 2) but it looks like from illustration B, which it refers you to for this jack, that it has PCB mounts. Any help clearing this up? Thanks again.

I forgot to mention, the jack you linked to on mouser is designed to be solderd to a PCB (note the thin pin-like terminals). If you plan to mount this to a PCB then that's fine, however if you will be soldering wires to the jack (as I suspect you will) then you want something like this: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=550-12001

This jack has standard solder lugs that will be much easier to solder wires to (and more secure in the long run).

[mdh]

From looking at the linked catalog page (and adjacent pages, just to be sure), it appears that if Neutrik manufactures a switched mono jack with solder lugs, Mouser doesn't carry it.  However, there's no reason you can't use a stereo jack, and just leave the ring terminals unused.

[fogwolf]

Glad to know I'm not crazy - sometimes for certain parts Mouser isn't as clear to me and I'm not sure if it's because I'm new (which is the case most of the time) or in this case if they don't have exactly what I'm looking for. Small Bear is definitely friendlier, catering more specifically to folks effects projects.

Thanks again.

From looking at the linked catalog page (and adjacent pages, just to be sure), it appears that if Neutrik manufactures a switched mono jack with solder lugs, Mouser doesn't carry it.  However, there's no reason you can't use a stereo jack, and just leave the ring terminals unused.