i'm looking for gutshots of an ibanez FL9

Started by foxfire, June 14, 2008, 11:36:49 AM

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foxfire

i just got one and about 5 of the wires are broken. if you have pics or know where to find them i'd be grateful. rylan

i should add that i believe i have the old one for what it's worth.

foxfire

i'm finding that if i connect the jack ground wire to the board ground i loose all signal. i don't have a switch but, since it uses a momentary switch i should just be able to quickly grond the switch lead right. rylan

frokost

Does this rock your boat?  ::)

I could take a better picture if you are a little bit more specific.

foxfire

what i really need it a shot of the wiring coming off the board and where they end up.  most all the loose wires where broken at the pot or switch end not the board. a big thanks though, rylan

frokost

In that case:



Right now I don't have time to locate the unit, open it up and take pictures, but I had these floating around for some reason. Hope it helps. Otherwise you'll have to wait till tomorrow.

foxfire

thanks a lot. if you have time tomorrow to open it up then i'll take all the pics you can throw at me but don't worry i can wait. and again thanks for your time and pics. rylan

SISKO

Does anyone know if there is some preject or schematic for the FL-9?
--Is there any body out there??--

frokost

#7
Ok, good morning, everyone :). Try this:


Sisko: Never seen it. There's the FL-301 project at Tonepad, and it is quite similar. Not sure if I would recommend it, though. This flanger doesn't quite do it for me.

foxfire

that one should about do it for me. thanks, rylan

foxfire

well that did it. it's working. not too bad for $30. thanks, rylan

frokost

That's a bargain, glad it worked out. A nice side effect of learning this stuff is that you can make good deals on "broken" stuff.

foxfire

#11
i figured i'd do up a "what wire goes where" list for the next person. if you look closely on your board you'll see that they have labeled where the wires go with a number and the color of the wire. so thats what i've listed.

50KB 1- black to ground
50KB 2- light green to 16 Y. GR.
50KB 3- red to 15 RED

10KB 1- black to ground
10KB 2- gray to 1 GRY.
10KB 3- blue to 5 BLU.

100KB 1- light blue to 8 S. BL.
100KB 2- orange to 14 ORA.
100KB 3- purple to 6 PUR.

500KC 1- not used
500KC 2- dark green to 13 GRN.
500KC 3- brown to 7 BRO.

input jack tip- yellow to 2 YEL.
input jack sleeve- black battery lead
input ring- black to ground

output jack tip- white to 3 WHT.
output jack ring- black to ground

battery snap- red to RED ( i don't see a number for it, it's the one between the blue and white)

switch 1- red/white to 11 W./R.
switch 2- black to ground

led anode- red to 9 RED
led cathode- pink to 12 PNK.

black 10 on the board- is the boards ground

P.S.- if you want to go true bypass with this pedal, what i did was i removed the FET in middle of the board, it's labeled "K44 C1K." then i jumped the 2 outer holes/traces. lastly i removed the diode across from the FET. that seems to be all you need to do to remove the switch from the signal path making the it so that the pedal is always on. at which piont you would wire up your new switch...

hope it helps, rylan

mojotron


frokost


SISKO

--Is there any body out there??--

mojotron

Your - welcome!!

The FL9 is a nice Flanger - I'm hoping some day me or someone else will put together a build for a DIY version.

frokost

Well, I don't know.. just my opinion here. It's too subtle for me, not enough jetplane. And I get the question "is that a chorus?" all the time, which is really annoying as I don't care much for chorus  ;).

SISKO

--Is there any body out there??--

frokost

That sounds good. Really. However, when I bought this, I was looking for that extreme jetplane sound, and it just doesn't do it. Besides, the flange sound doesn't cut through the mix in a band situation, which for me means that there are drums present.

It's a nice flanger. Just didn't do what I expected. Still don't know what would.