Yes I get lazy! Anyone make PCB for 3TDP switches?

[Processaurus]

A foxrox octron I'm looking at right now in has something like Nelson's PCB, in that it used a ribbon connector to go to the board.  It has a the LED on it, and a little circuit consisting of a transistor, cap, and two resistors, which I believe is to slow down the transient of the LED turning on, to avoid a *pop*.  Either that or a fancy LED driver?  Or both?

It also hangs over the side to make a ledge to slide the battery under, that's kind of cool.  Nice, modern construction in general on that pedal.

I was thinking of doing something like that for a run of pedals I was going to try and peddle, the only thing I was going to add was a ground plane maybe, if I can figure out how to make them in Altium.  That and maybe a place to hook up a shield braid in case shielded cable gets used for the input.

[R.G.]

A foxrox octron I'm looking at right now in has something like Nelson's PCB, in that it used a ribbon connector to go to the board.  It has a the LED on it, and a little circuit consisting of a transistor, cap, and two resistors, which I believe is to slow down the transient of the LED turning on, to avoid a *pop*.  Either that or a fancy LED driver?  Or both?

... or a Millenium Bypass?

[Processaurus]

... or a Millenium Bypass?

No diode in sight, and it is a 3pdt switch.  I'm guessing the transistor drives the led, and there is an RC network on the base to slow down the signal turning on the transistor.  But I'll take another look, I'm curious now.  Reminded me of some of the solutions offered in a big thread that I can't find now that explored why 3pdt's with LEDs would pop from the quick inrush of current.

[Processaurus]

Just ran across this inside view of a electro harmonix nano clone:

[railhead]

Okay, after gofing around more yesterday, really looking at how I setup my pedals, I *think* I've decided on the following:




I went ahead and put the pulldown resistors back in place because there really are a LOT of existing layout/boards (mine included) that don't have these as part of the circuit. I also tapped them into the -9v to ground. Is that best location, do you think?

I also added a spot for the LED resistor.

So...this thing is setup to work great for me as it has just what I need and nothing I don't. Do you guys mind giving one last look-over for any errors I didn't spot?

[railhead]

(bump)

[PurpleStrat]

(bump)

See my last post for a couple of recomendations.

[darron]

i didn't see the thread till now!

i don't use a pulldown resistor at the front of the circuit because i find you don't need it when you ground the input in bypass but i put one in at the end to be safe.

here's the sort of layout i use. you can see the jacks, the battery, and the switch. the DC input would be under one of the jacks, and i'd probably have the connection on the other side. i don't put in components like resistors or hookup wires above the jacks in fear that they can POSSIBLY short to the tip or earth.



if someone wants, i could whip up a quick ready-to-print pcb layout as a PDF document or something? it would include grounded input, pulldown resistor, and led resistor. if it's my own circuit, then i LOVE integrating the 3pdt because it gives a really firm mounting point, and saves on lots of hookups. at the same time, if you do a good job then there's nothing wrong with wiring it manually.


not many gut shots of it in action:





i drew this for someone too, maybe it will help?

[railhead]

I placed my order, and I ought to have them in 9-12 days. Once I verify, I'll post back and let everyone know. Based on how many I think I'll get out of my panels, I ought to be able to share them at no more than $1.00 each, plus shipping.

Stay tuned!

[cpnyc23]

Please let me know when you will have them available - I'd love to pick up a couple.

Really nice work on this!  From concept to design to production in less than 3 pages - impressive!!!!

-chris

[cpnyc23]

i drew this for someone too, maybe it will help?

Nice!  Thx for posting this Darron.  I've found that I have the most success (and zero popping) when I use your method of hooking up a 3PDT.  I wanted to incorporate your way of hooking up a 3PDT into a PCB like this but getting the measurements right has been a real pain.

Thanks!
-chris

[snap]

How do you guys drill the rectangular holes? Or do you drill excessively large holes and fill that up with expensive tin? Is that mechanically stable enough?

[earthtonesaudio]

How do you guys drill the rectangular holes? Or do you drill excessively large holes and fill that up with expensive tin? Is that mechanically stable enough?

Or perhaps crimp the lugs of the switch so they're smaller?  I'm interested in this too.

[cpnyc23]

I haven't tried it yet, but my plan was to use a drill bit that would normally be used for smaller components and drill three in a row that overlap a bit so they make one slightly deformed hole.  Maybe even just two would work  -  kind of like a figure eight.

-chris

[railhead]

Please let me know when you will have them available - I'd love to pick up a couple.

Really nice work on this!  From concept to design to production in less than 3 pages - impressive!!!!

-chris

I'll post a new thread once they come in, and that should be within the next 2 weeks (9-12 business days).

[darron]

How do you guys drill the rectangular holes? Or do you drill excessively large holes and fill that up with expensive tin? Is that mechanically stable enough?

Drill a large hole that fits the terminal. You usually won't get the solder running down the hole unless you use too much. It's certainly mechanically sound. The drill bit I use gives just enough room for it to be difficult to wedge the 3pdt into the fiberglass. Just as it is it should be stable enough, the solder is just an added bonus and assurance of strength.



The 3pdt board sounds like more work than it's worth to me, as your adding a lot more hookups and using more space. But it's worth messing around with.

Here's my regular hookup method for without a PCB: http://www.dazatronyx.com/support/true-bypass-technique.pdf

[railhead]

You're only adding more hookups if your circuit doesn't already include pulldowns and the LED resistor. As for the standard board in/out, jack in/out, switch ground, etc., my board merely extends the solder point to the edge of the board, rather than at the switch.

And yeah, it may totally suck after I try and implement it -- but I have a feeling I'll really like the speed of it. 

[railhead]

The boards are in and I'm finishing up the documentation that explains my jargon I got printed on them -- and I want to get one put into a "real" pedal of mine for pics, not just a test circuit that looks like crapola inside.

I'm going to sell them for cost, so they'll be $1 each. USPS says I can ship them in 3 days for $2.36 (in the US), so I was thinking I'd round that to $4 to cover the envelopes, printed documentation, and the drive to the post office. Does that seem like a fair price? So if you want 1, it'd be $5.00 ($1 + $4 shipping) total. If you want 10, it'd be $14.00 ($10 + $4 shipping) total.

Once I have everything ready to go, I'll make a new thread -- but int he mean time, let me know what you tink about the shipping. I don't want to seem like I'm gouging my fellow DIYers, but I don't want to shoot myself in the foot, either.

[darron]

The boards are in and I'm finishing up the documentation that explains my jargon I got printed on them -- and I want to get one put into a "real" pedal of mine for pics, not just a test circuit that looks like crapola inside.

I'm going to sell them for cost, so they'll be $1 each. USPS says I can ship them in 3 days for $2.36 (in the US), so I was thinking I'd round that to $4 to cover the envelopes, printed documentation, and the drive to the post office. Does that seem like a fair price? So if you want 1, it'd be $5.00 ($1 + $4 shipping) total. If you want 10, it'd be $14.00 ($10 + $4 shipping) total.

Once I have everything ready to go, I'll make a new thread -- but int he mean time, let me know what you tink about the shipping. I don't want to seem like I'm gouging my fellow DIYers, but I don't want to shoot myself in the foot, either.

man... that doesn't cover your trip to the post office at all! shooting yourself in the foot.

[railhead]

The 3PDT Boards are ready!

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=69574.0