Ideas for a spring reverb?

[chris_d]

Specifically, i am looking at wanting a standalone unit, similar to the Fender 6G15, but all solid state.

I figure something like this has been done already, so rather than start out by reinventing the wheel, i figured i would ask for some direction here. What exists for options for this type of project?

I have several reverb tanks from various SS combos that i gutted for other purposes, certainly something suitable among them for this application.

Ideally, i would like the topology to be as similar to the original Fender unit as possible, as it is the classic spring reverb tank sound that i want, just in a smaller, lighter, non-tube, form.

Any ideas or links to similar projects would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

-chris

[mth5044]

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=43&Itemid=26

I'm working on a 'soup'd up' one right now.

[chris_d]

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=43&Itemid=26

I'm working on a 'soup'd up' one right now.

One thing about the Stage Center circuit that i don't understand, is why the bi-polar supply is necessary. Would it be possible to do a spring reverb unit without the bipolar supply? Ultimately, i am most interested in the most simplified and effective solutions available. To do it without a second 9v or a Max1044 would be ideal for me, if it is possible to do something like that, that is.

-chris

[mth5044]

I don't know why its there either, but im not complaining.

The Max1044 design is only 1 chip, 2 resistors, 2 caps and a tranny. about the size of a digit on your pinky. if a 1'x1' square pcb is a make or break point then... you are going to have some trouble. With the max1044, all you need is a 9v adapter. Very easy.

[chris_d]

I don't know why its there either, but im not complaining.

The Max1044 design is only 1 chip, 2 resistors, 2 caps and a tranny. about the size of a digit on your pinky. if a 1'x1' square pcb is a make or break point then... you are going to have some trouble. With the max1044, all you need is a 9v adapter. Very easy.

Oh, i know it isn't much, but i don't generally like to just include something like that that i don't understand the purpose of, especially in older electronics projects, where sometimes, roundabout ways to get things done are chosen, to show off a novel approach to a solution, more than what might be a simpler alternate one.

Hopefully someone here in DIYland can explain why the bi-polar supply is (or isn't) needed to do what i would like to here.

-chris

[mth5044]

well its because the TL074 needs both +9 and -9 volts applied to pins 4 and 11. Why? I don't know, I just know that it does. You can use an 18v adapter too. And thats all I know 

[doug deeper]

opamps prefer a bipolar supply, craig anderton prefers the classy approach.

[ItZaLLgOOd]

Has anyone tried to make a DIY reverb tank?  I wonder how involved it would be.  I would like to build a small one for a 386 amp.  Any ideas??

[mth5044]

easier and probably cheaper to buy.

[ItZaLLgOOd]

easier and probably cheaper to buy.

So is a Tubescreamer

I want a little 4-5" tank to go in the 8"x6.5" cabinet just like the big boys.  It doesn't look to complicated.  Springs and the metal "pan" aren't a problem for me, but what are these "transducer" thing-a-mabobs

[Dr Ron]

One thing about the Stage Center circuit that i don't understand, is why the bi-polar supply is necessary.

The Max1044 design is only 1 chip, 2 resistors, 2 caps and a tranny. about the size of a digit on your pinky.

opamps prefer a bipolar supply, craig anderton prefers the classy approach.

With a +9V supply, you have to add resistor dividers after the coupling caps to increase the DC to 4.5 volts because the opamp can't handle the negative swing. Also consider that you're adding in power supply ripple and increasing the overall current drain from the battery.

The downside is needing 2 batteries or a special power supply.
The upside is fewer components in the signal path, which means a much cleaner signal resulting in better tone.

[petemoore]

  I built a buncha different reverbs.
  SCReverb is a good place to start.
  Re-indexing priorities such as the driver amps impedance, lets you look at more types of reverb tanks IIRC.
  The input transducer impedance may require an amp with more current drive capability.
  LM386 is a good choice for simple good amp with current driving capability, I thought of using an LM3886 once.
  The bypass signal and mix of bypass/reverb...requires what is shown on the SCR project, buffers, gain stages, pretty straightforeward following the input split, 2 signal paths, and mixer.
  Depending on input levels, increased headroom could be a nice feature, boost after...?
  All these things and many more formed circular thoughts, experiments with various designs.
  The MM Tranny's I returned came back with the right taps for my redesigned VOXAC15, one of which was a 36v tap for the SS reverb circuitry, which I think sounds good.
   a 5w tube recto [EL84] reverb, and 2 12a_7's with Accutronics long 2 spring tank...so good, it's almost worth hauling around all the time, jheez I have enough stuff.
  Speakers re-suspended, spring attachments fabricated, slinky and reverb tank springs utilized, various amplifiers used to drive the transducer and mix and recover. Do yourself a favor and skip all that noise, the slinky thing actually seemed worth getting a better system for driver & pickup transducing and spring attachment [I was using ~speakers] but then you'd need a tall thick tube to hang the slinky in.
  Anyway I went through all that, and prefer factory built, tuned springs, I'm the same way with factory guitar necks, I like them.