Things to know before trying to use Water Slide Decals

[Belt]

Any pit falls I might need to know about?
Advice?
Technique?

Thanks guys

Don

[Ice-9]

The colours to use is important, the first attempt i done was that i wanted yellow righting on a blue pedal, but when i put the decal on the pedal i could not see the yellow on the blue background. (obvious why after i done it ).
if you want any white in the decal remember that the decal will be clear where you want the white.
lastly some inkjet printers' ink is water based, so test it in the water with a small decal first as it might run the ink, if it does you will need to spray a couple of light coats of laquer on the decal first.

[frequencycentral]

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=71307.0

[GREEN FUZ]

After applying the decal allow it to dry completely before clear-coating. Even if it appears to be dry there may be some moisture trapped underneath it that will react badly with the clear.

[bipedal]

I've tried to keep my water-slide decals pretty simple and small -- text only at this point.  Has worked reasonably well, but I'm still getting the hang of it, as things are not quite as crisp and "professional" looking as I'd like.

The laser jet decals seem to be more robust than inkjet, since it's not as critical to clear coat the decal before it's dipped in water.  With inkjet printing, it seems like I have to spray on half a dozen layers of clearcoat and leave plenty of dry time (48+ hours at room temp) to prevent ink from running.

Really important to get the enclosure surface as smooth as possible before applying decals.  The smallest bump or imperfection in the surface seems to be even more noticeable when a decal is placed over it.

I seem to remember a past posting in which it was suggested that adding a few drops of vinegar to the water before applying waterslide decals helped to soften the decals and ease application?  Sorry, I don't recall specifics, but maybe someone can chime in?

- Jay

[GREEN FUZ]

I haven`t tried it but apparently applying diluted vinegar to the edge softens it and makes it stand out less. One of the things I don`t like about decals is that you can often see the edge where it`s been cut. One way to minimise this is to create a full face graphic.

[Belt]

thanks guys.

I've been contemplating full labels for decals / screen printing / water slides.

I don't know what I'll use.  But cheap and effective are my objectives.

[frequencycentral]

As I stated in the post I linked to: I stopped using waterslide - I find it too fragile, it warps creases and wrinkles, especially if you have a dense graphic. So now I use clear OHP film ("Ink Jet Film") made for overhead projectors. I print a reversed image, so the graphic is under the film - well protected. It's much stiffer than waterslide and doesnt warp etc. Plus using the reversed image the graphic its well protected from scratching. I give the image a couple of coats of clearcloat to stabalise it, and give the enclosure a shot of clearcoat then lay the graphic on. Cleacoat the whole thing to taste. FIFTY A4 sheets for £13 delivered - Ebay. I think that really cheap compared to waterslide prices. And a better product for the application IMHO.

[davent]

I haven`t tried it but apparently applying diluted vinegar to the edge softens it and makes it stand out less. One of the things I don`t like about decals is that you can often see the edge where it`s been cut. One way to minimise this is to create a full face graphic.

Hi,
You can also buy decal setting solutions, the ones I've tried smell very acetic aciddy so I'm probably purchasing very premium priced vinegar in little plastic bottles. To eliminate the edges is just a matter of time and patience. Apply the decal to an absolutely smooth surface as mentioned earlier. Over the next 24 hours or so keep brushing on the decal set along the decal edges, this seems to help soften the edge a bit.  Once the decal is thoroughly dry start clearcoating. I use laquer so the first couple coats applied about an hour apart are light mist coats. Wait Another hour start laying on wet coats, I'll put on 6-7 coats with at least an hour between then start sanding it off using wet 800 grit. The low spots in your finish will be shiny the high finish areas will be dull after sanding. Be careful not to sand through into your decal. Now you need to spray more clearcoats, maybe four, then sand again. Just keep spraying and sanding and you will get the edges to disappear into the finish. Lots of clearcoat and lots of sanding back will get you invisble edges.

The black of the lettering and the black of the face are seperate decals and there's no way you can see any decal edges.

A Before and after.

dave

[Belt]

As I stated in the post I linked to: I stopped using waterslide - I find it too fragile, it warps creases and wrinkles, especially if you have a dense graphic. So now I use clear OHP film ("Ink Jet Film") made for overhead projectors. I print a reversed image, so the graphic is under the film - well protected. It's much stiffer than waterslide and doesnt warp etc. Plus using the reversed image the graphic its well protected from scratching. I give the image a couple of coats of clearcloat to stabalise it, and give the enclosure a shot of clearcoat then lay the graphic on. Cleacoat the whole thing to taste. FIFTY A4 sheets for £13 delivered - Ebay. I think that really cheap compared to waterslide prices. And a better product for the application IMHO.

You just print a backwards image / decal, a few clear coats on the film, and press it on to the wet clear coat on the enclosure?  That's all?

I might go this route first.

It's Transparency Film for ink jet printers right?

Here's a link to some on Ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-IBM-Inkjet-Transparency-Film-w-Stripe-Ink-Jet_W0QQitemZ370088820828QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item370088820828&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

[frequencycentral]

As I stated in the post I linked to: I stopped using waterslide - I find it too fragile, it warps creases and wrinkles, especially if you have a dense graphic. So now I use clear OHP film ("Ink Jet Film") made for overhead projectors. I print a reversed image, so the graphic is under the film - well protected. It's much stiffer than waterslide and doesnt warp etc. Plus using the reversed image the graphic its well protected from scratching. I give the image a couple of coats of clearcloat to stabalise it, and give the enclosure a shot of clearcoat then lay the graphic on. Cleacoat the whole thing to taste. FIFTY A4 sheets for £13 delivered - Ebay. I think that really cheap compared to waterslide prices. And a better product for the application IMHO.

You just print a backwards image / decal, a few clear coats on the film, and press it on to the wet clear coat on the enclosure?  That's all?

I might go this route first.

It's Transparency Film for ink jet printers right?

Here's a link to some on Ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/100-IBM-Inkjet-Transparency-Film-w-Stripe-Ink-Jet_W0QQitemZ370088820828QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item370088820828&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Correct - it's very cheap and very easy. Examples:

[punkin]

Sorry for brining this old thread back up but the OHP material,...does it have and adhesive side to it or does it simply stick because you're applying it to wet clear coat? Do you apply clear coat to the enclosure, then the printed side of the OHP then apply when all is still wet?

Again, sorry for bringing up this old thread but I'd really like to know more about this process.


Thanks!

[frequencycentral]

No it's not adhesive. It sticks because I spray the enclosure before applying the graphic. It's important to use just the right amount of clear, not too much or the image will float around and it will take ages to dry. There's a bit of 'wiggle time' for you to get the graphic lined up, centered and dead on.

I do my graphics using MS Publisher. The final stage in Publisher is to flip the image horizantally (in the Arrange menu), having already grouped all the component parts of the image. This creates a reverse image. The OHP transparency film I'm using has a smooth side and a rough side. I print the reversed image on the rough side, the roughness is designed to hold the ink. I leave it to dry, usually overnight.

Having sprayed the enclosure with a little clear, and applied the graphic, I then give the whole enclosure four shots of clear, leaving an hour between each coat. Wait a day..........cutting away the transparency around the drilled holes is the tricky bit. I use a sharp Stanley blade and cut very slowly and smoothly. At this stage it is possible that the graphic can lift a little around the holes being cut, you should be able to press it back down as the clear will still be tacky. I've never had the patience to wait until the clear is totally dry under the graphic, but it may be better to cut the holes after a few days - shit, I can't wait that long!!

I'll be doing an enclosure this week, would it be helpful for me to do a photo essay of each stage in the process?

[jimma]

...I'll be doing an enclosure this week, would it be helpful for me to do a photo essay of each stage in the process?

Absolutley, if you wouldn't mind! But thanks a bunch for the info you've provided already...

[punkin]

Wow...that would be great! Very generous of you to do so.

I look forward to it!

[robmdall]

I'll be doing an enclosure this week, would it be helpful for me to do a photo essay of each stage in the process?

Now, that would be so cool.

[frequencycentral]

...I'll be doing an enclosure this week, would it be helpful for me to do a photo essay of each stage in the process?

Absolutley, if you wouldn't mind! But thanks a bunch for the info you've provided already...

Wow...that would be great! Very generous of you to do so.

I look forward to it!

I'll be doing an enclosure this week, would it be helpful for me to do a photo essay of each stage in the process?

Now, that would be so cool.

OK, I'm on the case. "frequencycentral OHP Transparency Graphic Technique Photo Essay" coming soon to a thread near you. I printed the graphic today, I should get the enclosure done over the weekend.

[Kitarist]

i'm really interested in the OHP technique will you be willing to describe it how you do it?

Thanks!!!

[frequencycentral]

i'm really interested in the OHP technique will you be willing to describe it how you do it?

Thanks!!!

Yup, there will be lots of photos and lots of words. I've done a dozen pedals now using this technique, so I've got a good idea of what works and what doesn't. It's not the be-all-and-end-all of graphics techniques, but it works for me - and it's way cheaper than waterslide, with a number of advantages. I've got one pedal I did where the actual graphic image didn't suit the technique, it was too dark, and the black in has bled over time, so I'll post that up as well as an example of what doesn't work so well. I'll also add a link to an MS Publisher file of my graphic, so folks can pick it apart and get some ideas maybe.

[solderman]

Hi
I started out using self adhesive laser copy film. I found them to thick and a bit dull in the coulor tone. I am now only using water slides. I print out a decal that cowers the whole top. Since I am mostly using 1950A enclosures the size is no problem. I don't find  the size of a 1950B a problem Larger can be a problem. One essential tool though to succeed, as I see it, is a set of different size hole punchers, the kind you would use to make holes in fabric or lether. The waterslide is quite tough and rubbery so this is the easyest way to punch the holes you need for pots ans such. As sad before you have to spray a protective cote in the print out before sinking it in to the water. I use B/W laser and that applies for that as well. At least tree layers of clear coat and you have a nice result. If you put in the effort and sand with 1200 paper in betwen and go for 5 or more layers you are in arty heaven.