Clearcoating a powdercoated enclosure...clean it first?

[cheezit]

I ordered a fancy lime-green powdercoated enclosure from PPP.    Now that I'm done drilling holes in it, I plan to put a little artwork/decal stuff on it and then clearcoat it. 

I've been handling it, though, and I'm sure my finger grease is all over it.  What can I do to get it off before clearcoating?  Or should I worry about it at all?

[sfx]

I think a quick wipe with some rubbing alcohol should work fine.

[John Lyons]

Yeah, just clean it with anything you have on hand.
Naphtha, alcohol.... Anything that cuts through finger oils will work.
I'm not sure if acetone would be too strong.

Beat me too it while I was typing SFX...

john

[sixstringphil]

do you find it necessary to lightly sand the powder coat to get better adhesion from the clear? I always did that just assuming it was necessary, but maybe it's not.

[John Lyons]

Good call phillip I would do that as well.
Nothing sticks to a glossy surface. (Well maybe transparent powdercoat does) 
600 grit or steel wool buffing should do fine.


john

[Pushtone]

+1 on the 000 steel wool.

Get the shine off before clear coating.

Be careful with "rub through" on the edges.

[cheezit]

Thanks everyone.  I didn't think to go over it with steel wool...the powdercoat looks so glossy and nice it's a shame to scuff it up, but I suppose the clearcoat will fix that.

[frank_p]

Putting "paints" on plastic are often a problem.  There are two ways to make it stick more to the plastic.

1- Pass a flame over it (propane torch or gaz paint striper).
2- Corona (high voltage sparks).

The second option is a headache.
Sandpaper and steelwool will help also but won't break the molecules on the surface as to kill the non-adhesive property of plastics.

These two ways are standard in the industry.

[Pushtone]

Plastic?

I though powered coatings were the same paint pigments, less the solvents.

My powder coater offers spraying or powder but he shows me the same color samples from his supplier for both processes.

I'll have to ask about plastic coatings.

Anyway, I've had no problem clear coating over powder and adhesion isn't a problem.

Getting spray bombs to stick to bare aluminum IS a problem. Chip city.

[frank_p]

Plastic?

I though powered coatings were the same paint pigments, less the solvents.

Powder colors are pigments in plastics (just as commercial tattoo inks  ).
Thermoplastics or thermosets.
With no solvent, the easy way to make the pigment bond is putting it in polymers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powder_coating

Liquid paints contain: solvent, ligand, and pigment.  It's the base of all paints.
Powder is solid, so yes, no solvent here but you still have to make it "liquid" with heat...

[bancika]

I'm not sure if acetone would be too strong.

Whatever you do don't use acetone, it is too strong. Don't ask me how I know 

[MikeH]

Uh... ask me how I know; I tried to clean a powdercoated enclosure with acetone, and yes, it is too strong.

[SteveB]

Sorta' straying off the original question, but I have to second John's naptha suggestion as a great general cleaner. I searched quite a while for solutions that would clean masking glue residue without harming paint, & lighter fluid was the winner. It evaporates quickly enough to not mess with most non-waterbased paints, & is able to get rid of waxes, oils, & other sticky gunk.

Steve

[PerroGrande]

I've actually had good luck using a car polish on Powder Coat prior to a traditional clear coat.   

Specifically, I have used Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Polish (Step 2) prior to a clear with good results.  I usually follow this with a brief baking at around 170 degrees to cook off any lingering moisture, and some blasts with compressed air to remove any dust/etc that might be hanging around.

[tranceracer]

I've actually had good luck using a car polish on Powder Coat prior to a traditional clear coat.   

Specifically, I have used Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Polish (Step 2) prior to a clear with good results.  I usually follow this with a brief baking at around 170 degrees to cook off any lingering moisture, and some blasts with compressed air to remove any dust/etc that might be hanging around.

I've found car polish work great also.  The only thing I've noticed is that it scratches easily.  But I used the NuFinish (stuff in the orange bottle).