Toner transfer for box labeling

[CodeMonk]

Just  wondering if anyone that has done the toner transfer method for labeling their enclosures using a wide chisel tipped soldering iron?
I recently did a test just using the normal iron. worked fine but I saw some of the residual bits from the photo paper as I printed all the labeling out so I could just place the paper and iron all the text at once.
Just curious about using a soldering iron for this (for the smaller footprint). Like cut out the label out of the paper just so its large enough for the text.

[MarcoMike]

I've done a couple of pedals using toner transfer and iron (the chlotes one) and it's just the most professional-looking technique I've used... it's a shame the color laser printer at work doesn't like photo paper sheets...

anyway... about residues... just clear coat it and they will "disappear". and I think doing  just one transfer is much better for the alignment of all the writings.

this are my results, believe me, there were a lot of paper residues, mainly in the text area...

[cpnyc23]

I'm a bit confused about the process... can either of you point me to where I might find some more info?

Thanks
-chris

[MarcoMike]

it's just the same as toner transfer on copper boards. I think someone made a tutorial for this, but don't remember who and where... anyway, you have to:
-paint the enclosure
-polish the enclosure where you want to apply the graphic
-print your graphic "mirrorized" with a laser printer on glossy paper (use high quality settings for better results)
-lean the paper on your enclosure
-start ironing. as with PCBs I usually start at one corner so the paper sticks on the metal. then make sure all the graphic was heated enough to melt the toner and transfer on the enclosure
-let it cool down
-wash it with water and soap (it helps soaking the paper). usually the paper sheet detaches easily from the metal, but patience is important at this point.
-refine the result removing paper residues using a tootpick or tootbrush.
-let it dry
-clear coat
-enjoy

[mojotron]

I have to imagine that PNP Blue will make this even easier.

[bean]

Toner transfer will look much better than PNP. Deep blacks vs. ugly blue  :'(l

[Zben3129]

PnP doesn't leave behind any blue in my experience, just black

Zach

[David]

Toner transfer will look much better than PNP. Deep blacks vs. ugly blue  :'(l

Bean, what do you think Press and Peel is?

[David]

I have to imagine that PNP Blue will make this even easier.

Has anyone ever tried using PNP on steel?  For example, RACO box covers?

[gnognofasciani]

it's just the same as toner transfer on copper boards. I think someone made a tutorial for this, but don't remember who and where... anyway, you have to:
-paint the enclosure
-polish the enclosure where you want to apply the graphic
-print your graphic "mirrorized" with a laser printer on glossy paper (use high quality settings for better results)
-lean the paper on your enclosure
-start ironing. as with PCBs I usually start at one corner so the paper sticks on the metal. then make sure all the graphic was heated enough to melt the toner and transfer on the enclosure
-let it cool down
-wash it with water and soap (it helps soaking the paper). usually the paper sheet detaches easily from the metal, but patience is important at this point.
-refine the result removing paper residues using a tootpick or tootbrush.
-let it dry
-clear coat
-enjoy

Does the paint resist to the heat of the iron? I've never tried because i was worried about the paint melting!

[dschwartz]

has anyone tried using color laser printing?
i am curious about how would that work...

[bean]

Toner transfer will look much better than PNP. Deep blacks vs. ugly blue  :'(l

Bean, what do you think Press and Peel is?

I know that PNP is toner transfer, but I always see a bluish tint on the mask when I use it. It could be due to the blue backing showing through thinner layers of ink. That is the point I'm making between using regular photo paper over PNP...that the blacks will be better.

[mojotron]

I have to imagine that PNP Blue will make this even easier.

Has anyone ever tried using PNP on steel?  For example, RACO box covers?

Since I'm in love with $1.50 electrical boxes I had to try that a couple years ago. 

I tried to do some enclosure etching on an electrical box lid. The toner transfer works fine on steel, but with all of the pressing done in the process of making those electrical box lids - they are very tough to get precisely flat for the transfer to work well. So, if one were to fold their own enclosure and get the steel flat enough, it would take a transfer as aluminum does.

So, PNP works very well on steel - at a much lower temperature than paper.

BTW, this is unrelated to the current thread, enclosure etching works on steel too - but the etchent may react too much to use a dunking technique - I brushed the etchent on thick with a brush and that worked - if one were wondering about that.

[David]

I have to imagine that PNP Blue will make this even easier.

Has anyone ever tried using PNP on steel?  For example, RACO box covers?

Since I'm in love with $1.50 electrical boxes I had to try that a couple years ago. 

I tried to do some enclosure etching on an electrical box lid. The toner transfer works fine on steel, but with all of the pressing done in the process of making those electrical box lids - they are very tough to get precisely flat for the transfer to work well. So, if one were to fold their own enclosure and get the steel flat enough, it would take a transfer as aluminum does.

So, PNP works very well on steel - at a much lower temperature than paper.

BTW, this is unrelated to the current thread, enclosure etching works on steel too - but the etchent may react too much to use a dunking technique - I brushed the etchent on thick with a brush and that worked - if one were wondering about that.

Great (or in my case, not-so-great) minds think alike!  KEWL!  Many thanks, Mojo-man!

I think I've addressed the "flatness" issue.  I perfected a methodology for RACO box covers using Front Panel Designer.  I made the size of the unit the size of a "flattened" cover.  I have used this in the past to label boxes with the transparent/translucent adhesive printer labels, which I then sprayed with clear lacquer.  It's OK, but it would be better if I could eliminate the issues of air bubbles, etc that come with label placement and just etch my labeling right on to the cover.  Badda-boom-badda-bing!

[objectx]

so can anyone tell me what the best photo paper to sue for etching is? I've tried a few diff brands without too much success, although it may be my cheap laser printer.

[bean]

I tried it out last night using Staples Glossy Photo paper and it worked very well. It even transferred 7pt font without smearing one bit. I haven't figured out the most effective way to get the paper up afterward, though. Ended up pulling a little bit of transfer up.

I have found if you poke a generous amount of holes in the paper with a needle that not only will the transfer be cleaner, but the top layer of paper comes off by itself right after immersion in water. I think the holes help force air bubbles in between the paper and enclosure which causes it to lift off around the corners.

[mojotron]

so can anyone tell me what the best photo paper to sue for etching is? I've tried a few diff brands without too much success, although it may be my cheap laser printer.

I tried every one I could get my hands on about 4 years ago. The Staples brand worked the best, plain paper works too. I loved the way plain paper melts under water - some quick work with an exacto knife and you are done - but the resolution is not great. For labeling I imagine a light sanding with 600-grit sand paper would take the white stuff completely off - but that would have to be tried.

For board etching, regular paper is not bad as all the extra paper adds some level of protection for your traces, but then again the resolution is not great. I finally went to PNP and never went back as the time involved, the perfect transfer, really high resolution, and lower heat with PNP makes the transfer method pretty easy. Also, with PNP, the only prepwork that I need to do is to sand the coper-clad very lightly with 80-grit sand paper on a very flat block in all directions (for about 3-5 seconds) then wash with dish soap and then wipe with Alcohol. No more Acetone or Lacquer Thinner - which was more important when I used paper as the surface prep has to be very good. The prep with PNP takes about 1/4th the time as with picture paper IME.

[dschwartz]

again.. anyone tried color laser toner?

[objectx]

not sure if the color toner works as a carbon based ink is required right?

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

I think colour laser would work, it isn't carbon that melts, the toner consists of resin beads with carbon (or in the case of colour lasers, pigments) embedded in the resin. So colour toner particles would melt just like a black laser printer.