Understanding vero Layout for Bass Fuzz....

[bassplaya12]

Can somebody help me understand this.  I thought i did but im now confusing myself. 



This is what i have to work with.  How is the circuit continued?  Like i dont understand how without an etched pcb the circuit works.  Sorry im an extreme noob.  Ive modded several pedals before but never built a circuit from scratch.  Thanks in advance.  Any help would be appreciated.

[Nitefly182]

Most vero layouts dont show the switching and hardware because everyone has their own preferred switching methods. You just need to choose a switching method and apply it to that circuit. You can find a good one at www.beavisaudio.com

[bassplaya12]

Where would an LED and bypass switch go in this circuit?  Also what are the red boxes?  Do you connect components on the back?

[runmikeyrun]

the red dots are where you need to physically cut the copper trace on the bottom so the two sections don't connect.  A bypass switch would connect to both the input and output, and if using a standard 3PDT/LED setup the LED and resistor would connect to the switch.

[oskar]

Where would an LED and bypass switch go in this circuit?

Here is how to wire it up with an LED and a 3PDT switch.
http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/

The board is seen from the component side so the tracks are on the bottom. The components go on top of it.



Your new to this so...

1. Don't put it in a box...
1. and wire it to a switch...
1. and do LED stuff... whatever...
1. Don't mod it!!!

...Until you make some noise with it. All extravaganza is VERBOTEN!!!

skar

[Renegadrian]

Too much board used...I'd do it that way...

[bassplaya12]

Where would an LED and bypass switch go in this circuit?

Here is how to wire it up with an LED and a 3PDT switch.
http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/

The board is seen from the component side so the tracks are on the bottom. The components go on top of it.



Your new to this so...

1. Don't put it in a box...
1. and wire it to a switch...
1. and do LED stuff... whatever...
1. Don't mod it!!!

...Until you make some noise with it. All extravaganza is VERBOTEN!!!

skar

Do you just put the components through the board and solder them to the hole they came through?  I saw somewhere where they were connecting the leads of the components on the bottom side.  Also cutting the copper trace?  The boards i was looking at has copper circles around each hole.  Wouldnt that "cut" the circuit since theyre not connected?

[oskar]

Do you just put the components through the board and solder them to the hole they came through?

Yes!

I saw somewhere where they were connecting the leads of the components on the bottom side.

If you have the boards with solder pads, one pad per hole, then you use the component leads and wire and whatever that conducts on the bottom/copper side. The layouts you and renegadrian linked to both use copper strips. Cleaner build that is...

Also cutting the copper trace?

That was probably the solder pad version. No cutting...

The boards i was looking at has copper circles around each hole.  Wouldnt that "cut" the circuit since theyre not connected?

Yes. You've got it!

I suggest that you look for a board with solder strips like the one used in one of the layouts above.

This is what you want deep inside...
Smallbear. Where many around here buy stuff.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=PC+Boards+and+Prototyping



Arons store has the solder pad veros...
http://diystompboxes.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=15

[bassplaya12]

So with the first one you sent The components wouldnt need to be connected to eachother and the copper trace would have to be cut where designated?  And the second one the components would have to be connected on the underside?

[jakehop]

The components are interconnected by the coppertraces on the board - that's the beauty if vero board! However, sometimes we don't want some components connected with each other, so instead of using an extra copper strip, we place a cut in one already used. That way we now have two strips able to carry two different signals! This is a great way to make complex layouts almost as small as PCB's.

You DO need to be careful about how much solder you use. If you're too generous, two strips might be connected by a tiny bit of solder, or make weird noises if there's too much flux between them. It's no biggie, and not a problem for me, just something you got to watch out for every time.

Kind regards, Jake

[oskar]

And the second one the components would have to be connected on the underside?

Yes.

[bassplaya12]

So if I use the board without copper strips, just the copper ringed holes, based on this vero layout, how do i know where to connect the components?

[Nitefly182]

So if I use the board without copper strips, just the copper ringed holes, based on this vero layout, how do i know where to connect the components?

Every component on a strip is connected to the other components on that strip. You need to either buy vero board and follow that diagram, or make your perfboard into vero with the component leads as you assemble the board. Your other option is to buy a ZVex Woolly Mammoth and maybe start building with a simpler kit for a different pedal from GGG or BYOC. They will have better instructions to help you while you learn.

[bassmasta17]

listen to oskar he helped me alot. Dont underestimate the power of the oskar!

[oskar]

So if I use the board without copper strips...

Thats what bassboy1 used ( your no.2 )
1.
Has been covered here...
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=72209.0
Simply bend the leads to of the components and connect them to replace the copper tracks.
You can use wire to replace the tracks to.

or even better...

2.
Get a proper stripboard...
The layout is for a stripboard

Dont underestimate the power of the oskar!

[bassplaya12]

So if I use the board without copper strips, just the copper ringed holes, based on this vero layout, how do i know where to connect the components?

Every component on a strip is connected to the other components on that strip. You need to either buy vero board and follow that diagram, or make your perfboard into vero with the component leads as you assemble the board. Your other option is to buy a ZVex Woolly Mammoth and maybe start building with a simpler kit for a different pedal from GGG or BYOC. They will have better instructions to help you while you learn.

But buying a Wooly Mammoth just wouldnt be as much fun would it?    Ive done a couple mods from monte allum and im about to order the optical compressor from BYOC, but im looking more into building things from scratch.  I think it would be very rewarding.  And id like to learn more about electronics in the process.

[Barcode80]

since you recognize pcb's it mght help to look at vero the same way. vero boards are like pre-printed circuit boards, where the copper traces are just printed in strips. then, using those strips, and utilizing cuts to interrupt strips, you solder it the same way you would a pcb.

[Dr.Pain]

I've heard that this pedal does not work properly with active basses - can anyone confirm this? If this is true are there any substitutions that can be done to prevent this? Thanks.

[bassplaya12]

Im a noob but i dont see a reason why active basses wouldnt work.  Something with the boosted signal?

[bassplaya12]

So if I use the board without copper strips...

Thats what bassboy1 used ( your no.2 )
1.
Has been covered here...
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=72209.0
Simply bend the leads to of the components and connect them to replace the copper tracks.
You can use wire to replace the tracks to.

or even better...

2.
Get a proper stripboard...
The layout is for a stripboard

Makes sense to me.  And im reading through that other thread.  It seems all my noob questions were already answered