TS808 first attempt

Started by lazerphea, December 30, 2008, 02:09:34 PM

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lazerphea

Hello all!
I'm trying to buind the legendary TubeScreamer; I'm making some advances but the stuff isn't still working.
So, following the guidelines:

Quote1.What does it do, not do, and sound like?
It doesn't distort; the signal passes throught the circuit, volume pot (R21) works correctly, tone pot (R20) too: it affects the low frequencies blending. The Drive pot (R19) doesn't affect the sound.
I get a nice, full clean tone with maybe a little bit of distortion hardly noticeable.
It seems clear to me that the problem is in the driving stage... isn't it?

Quote2.Name of the circuit:
Ibanez Tube Screamer 808

Quote3.Source of the circuit (URL of schematic or project):
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_its8_sc.pdf
Quote
4.Any modifications to the circuit?
5.Any parts substitutions?
Yes: I substituted R22 (1.5M) with two resistor in series, Ra=1M and Rb = 510K; R12 (510K) has been substituted by 2x1M resistor in parallel, in series with a 10K resistor.
- C4 has been substituted with the parallel combination of C4a = 47pG and C4b=3.9pF.
- I ignored Sw1a and Sw1b, directly connecting input's tip to the parallel combination of C1 and R22, and output's tip to the parallel combination of C11 and R13.
- The led part hasn't been taken into consideration, too.
- 4558D substituted with a 4558C.
- D1 and D2 are germanium diodes.

Quote6.Positive ground to negative ground conversion?
I don't know what is this, so I assume I didn't do this :D

Quote7.Turn your meter on, set it to the 10V or 20V scale. Remove the battery from the battery clip. Probe the battery terminals with the meter leads before putting it in the clip. What is the out of circuit battery voltage?
V+ = 8.97V
Vr = 4.32V

Quote8. Now, using the original schematic as a reference for which part is which (that is, which transistor is Q1, Q2, etc. and which IC is IC1, IC2, C1, and so on) measure and list the voltage on each pin of every transistor and IC. Just keep the black lead on ground, and touch the pointed end of the red probe to each one in turn.

Q1:
E = 3.29V
B = 3.74V
C = 8.98V

Q2:
E = 3.26V
B = 3.72V
C = 8.98V

JRC4558C:
1 = 4.44V
2 = 4.44V
3 = 4.44V
4 = 0.0V
5 = 4.44V
6 = 4.44V
7 = 4.44V
8 = 8.91V

D1:
A = 4.44V
K = 4.44V

D2:
A = 4.44V
K = 4.44V

That's it! :) I'll try now to rewire the driving stage...

ayayay!

#1
First of all, that's an excellent post.  Very clear and good measurements.  Take comfort in knowing your troubleshooting skills are already very good. 

It seems to me your wiring on the drive pot is off somewhere.  How is it wired?  If you're looking at the pot's backside, with the lugs pointing downward, you should have the input on the left lug and the output wired to the center & outside lugs. 

Do you have the 51k in at R7, and is it getting a signal? 
The people who work for a living are now outnumbered by those who vote for a living.

Zben3129

If your drive pot is shorted out (or any direct short in that feedback loop for that matter) you will get clean boost. Test the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the opamp, if it is 47k-ish no matter where the drive pot is set, your pot is shorted. If it is 0 ohms no matter what, then the whole loop is shorted. The voltages are good so the opamp is functioning correctly.

Zach

George Giblet

Other possibilities:

I'm thinking there's break in the components around C3 and R6.  Perhaps R6 isn't connected back to Vr?

Another option is C4 is shorted.

ayayay!

QuoteI'm thinking there's break in the components around C3 and R6.  Perhaps R6 isn't connected back to Vr?

I was just gonna say that.  It seems Vr has connections all over the place so double check all of them. 
The people who work for a living are now outnumbered by those who vote for a living.

lazerphea

Quote from: ayayay! on December 30, 2008, 02:30:27 PM
First of all, that's an excellent post.  Very clear and good measurements.  Take comfort in knowing your troubleshooting skills are already very good. 
Thanks man, I tried to be as clear as possible! :)

Quote
It seems to me your wiring on the drive pot is off somewhere.  How is it wired?  If you're looking at the pot's backside, with the lugs pointing downward, you should have the input on the left lug and the output wired to the center & outside lugs. 

Do you have the 51k in at R7, and is it getting a signal? 
Umh... I read 4.42V on both of R7's pins....
Now I'm almost sure I wired the pot the wrong way: looking at the pot backside, lugs pointing downward, I connected the left wire of the pot to R7, and the central wire to D1, while I left the  right wire unwired... do I have to solder it to the central one??

lazerphea

Oohhh... three new posts! I'll now try everything you suggested! :)

Bensnap

#7
In the schematic you have it looks like the third lug on the gain pot looks like its not connected to any thing. Its should be connected to the middle lug.
"It's too bad that whole families have to be torn apart by something as simple as wild dogs"-Jack Handy

lazerphea

Quote from: Bensnap on December 30, 2008, 03:15:49 PM
IN the schematic you have it looks like the third lug on the pot is not connected to any thing. Its should be connected to the middle lug.
Sorry: is the third lug the one connected to the right pin of  the pot (looking the pot backward, lugs pointing down)?

lazerphea

Quote from: Zben3129 on December 30, 2008, 02:47:29 PM
If your drive pot is shorted out (or any direct short in that feedback loop for that matter) you will get clean boost. Test the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the opamp, if it is 47k-ish no matter where the drive pot is set, your pot is shorted. If it is 0 ohms no matter what, then the whole loop is shorted. The voltages are good so the opamp is functioning correctly.

Zach
I put the black lead of my meter on pin 1 and the red one on pin 2 of the IC; what I read is:
3.25 Ohm if the 500K pot is in 500K position
2.99 Ohm if the 500K pot is in 0K position

lazerphea

Quote from: George Giblet on December 30, 2008, 02:48:19 PM
Other possibilities:

I'm thinking there's break in the components around C3 and R6.  Perhaps R6 isn't connected back to Vr?

Another option is C4 is shorted.

Alright: R6 goes from C4's pin to Vr directly, so I think this is ok.
How can I say if C4 is shorted? Remember that for me, C4 is C4a=47pF parallel to C4b =3.9pF.

Bensnap

Quote from: lazerphea on December 30, 2008, 03:19:46 PM
Sorry: is the third lug the one connected to the right pin of  the pot (looking the pot backward, lugs pointing down)?

Right. The first lug is on the left connected to R7. Then you want to connect the middle and third lug on the right together. Then out form there.
"It's too bad that whole families have to be torn apart by something as simple as wild dogs"-Jack Handy

Zben3129

Quote from: lazerphea on December 30, 2008, 03:24:03 PM
Quote from: Zben3129 on December 30, 2008, 02:47:29 PM
If your drive pot is shorted out (or any direct short in that feedback loop for that matter) you will get clean boost. Test the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the opamp, if it is 47k-ish no matter where the drive pot is set, your pot is shorted. If it is 0 ohms no matter what, then the whole loop is shorted. The voltages are good so the opamp is functioning correctly.

Zach
I put the black lead of my meter on pin 1 and the red one on pin 2 of the IC; what I read is:
3.25 Ohm if the 500K pot is in 500K position
2.99 Ohm if the 500K pot is in 0K position

Oops, I forgot about something  :icon_redface:. The diodes will make the resistance read open across the feedback loop, so the only way to measure the fb loop would be to disconnect the diodes. You may or may not want to do this, if you don't then just triple check the pot and 51k resistor are ok.

Zach

Bensnap

#13
Quote from: Bensnap on December 30, 2008, 03:36:11 PM
Right. The first lug is on the left connected to R7. Then you want to connect the middle and third lug on the right together. Then out form there.

Like this.
"It's too bad that whole families have to be torn apart by something as simple as wild dogs"-Jack Handy

lazerphea

Ok, I soldered the central wire of the pot to the right one, and took the output from there, but nothing happens... If i remove the pot from the circuit I get exactly the same result.
I'll now try to make a schema of my breadboard layout and then I'll post it! :)

Bensnap

I have a tube screamer bread boarded at home but it will be three hours till i get home. if you haven't worked it out by then i can take a closer look at mine. I had the same problem last night with my gain stage.
"It's too bad that whole families have to be torn apart by something as simple as wild dogs"-Jack Handy

lazerphea

Quote from: Bensnap on December 30, 2008, 03:54:49 PM
Quote from: Bensnap on December 30, 2008, 03:36:11 PM
Right. The first lug is on the left connected to R7. Then you want to connect the middle and third lug on the right together. Then out form there.

Like this.

Yeah, I did exactly this wiring! But no changes... :(

lazerphea

Quote from: Bensnap on December 30, 2008, 04:03:48 PM
I have a tube screamer bread boarded at home but it will be three hours till i get home. if you haven't worked it out by then i can take a closer look at mine. I had the same problem last night with my gain stage.
You're very kind, man! I'll try and try again in the meantime :)

ayayay!

Hmm okay so we're getting somewhere.  I don't know where but we're getting there...

Are the diodes facing in opposite directions as in the schem? 
The people who work for a living are now outnumbered by those who vote for a living.

Bensnap

You are Bread Boarding this right?
"It's too bad that whole families have to be torn apart by something as simple as wild dogs"-Jack Handy