Drilling Jacks on Top

[liquids]

It's hard to find clear measurements regarding drilling, especially for "jacks on the top" as opposed to the sides.

The 1590BB I've had drilled just barely was able to fit the stereo jack on top over the pots. 

Similarly, I opened up a boutique pedal I have that will remain nameless, that has 3 1/4" jacks and a DC jack on the top, all in a 1590BB, and apparently there was some L-R measurement error, because one of the jacks was drilled too close to the corner where the screw inserts, and hence had part of the 'brown board' of the jack nipped off just to get it to fit!   

So I think I'm going with 1590C's instead for bigger box stuff, as it has plenty of room for error between jacks and pots, with much more depth...

But how about the 125B?  I have two that I'm ready to drill, and I know it can be done, but I'm concerned about how tight it is to put a DC jack, in, and out jack on the top.

So, anyone have measurements (preferable in cm/mm) for drilling boxes with jacks on top that work, so I don't have to learn by trial and error?   

While we're at it, how close to the "bottom" face of the pedal can you put a 3PDT stop switch, if you're not trying to squeeze a battery in there?

[jacobyjd]

Given the vast differences in types of jacks, pots, etc, you'll probably have to measure for clearances yourself.

By 'on top', I assume you mean the far side of the enclosure, as opposed to the face of the box (where you drill for the pots, footswitch, etc.), and that you're talking about drilling for jacks there as opposed to drilling on either side. If that's not the case, you may need to clarify your terminology a bit.

That said, I've had great success using plastic 'Marshall-style' switching jacks and 16mm pots. In this case, I measure the amount of space a jack needs to clear a mounted 16mm pot, then I measure, mark and drill the box wall far enough downward to clear the pot.

Just measure your space and your parts, and you'll be able to figure out if it'll fit

[Andi]

I've gotten to the point where I measure every component for every pedal to make sure they'll all fit right. Then I do PCBs to fit the remaining space.

[ianmgull]

A pair of digital calipers is very handy for this type of thing. I've managed to fit two switchcraft jacks, and the round plastic DC jack smallbear sells on the "top" side of a 125B enclosure. It's terrifying because if your drill bits are off center by even a millimeter, you can be outside of your margin of error. It's not for the faint of heart (or those without an extra enclosure) but it can be done. This way you can put your boxes closer together and conserve valuable pedal real estate.

I usually come up about 12mm from the bottom of the box for the stompswitch. If you figure the thickness of the enclosure is just under 2mm and the stomswitch is roughly (but not quite) 19mm square, this gives you a few millimeters of clearance.

But again, I wouldn't go off this advice alone. Measure many many times before you drill!!!

[cpm]

i like the 70009 enclosure, is about 9x9x4cm, very much like a RAT.
it is small and has enough depth for pots, jacks and pcb

[musiclikscreams]

i was able to squeeze the jacks on top of my 125B.  i messed it up the first time.  drilled the hole too close to the screw post.  it was a good thing i drilled those holes first.  but ya i got the DC and 2 1/4" jacks on top no prob.  i just lined all the components up on the enclosure and drilled away.  def a lil tight tho but it works.  i love the look and convenience!

[Paul Perry (Frostwave)]

I've gotten to the point where I measure every component for every pedal to make sure they'll all fit right. Then I do PCBs to fit the remaining space.

This is the voice of experience.
First position the components, THEN design the PCB.
I think every professional I know does this.. eventually...

[Andi]

Emphasis on the "eventually".

As has been mentioned, a pair of digital verniers is invaluable for this. I make up my drilling templates in the eMachineshop CAD client (I find it quick and easy), then either print a paper template, or if I'll be doing lots the same I export as DXF< convert DXF to Gerber (I use ACE Translator) and then make up a drilling template from PCB material on my CNC router. The paper ones are pretty much as good to be honest - just make sure there's no scaling going on.